Hi All, So I've just pulled the trigger on a second hand TE630 to replace my DRZ400. I've been doing some research and the starting point is going to be a tear down to address some of the issues in the threads below and do any routine maintenance and consumables (I'm assuming some shagged bearings etc). Documented 630 Parts Failures - Known Weak Areas http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/documented-630-part-failures-known-weak-areas.30149/ TE630 - Buying Advice http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/te630-any-buying-advice.39244/ From there, assuming a compression test shows the bike isn't a lemon and majorly expensive parts are looking alright, I'm plotting and scheming a few mods. First though, what is the 'clutch spring cup mod,' can't seem to find much info on wha this or why its done? I'm looking to address these areas pretty soon though: Clutch cup spring mod(?) Subframe bracing Cush hub EFI Exhaust Gearing Suspension EFI: What are the options here, so far I've come up with: JD Power Surge Bazzaz (Z-Fi+Z-AFM) PowerCommander 5 (+AutoTune) iBeat 2.1 Any thoughts on these, the PC5 looks promising in terms of custom mapping, but it doesn't look like it will handle ignition timing; but I do like the idea of a closed loop feedback system that continues to monitor AFR.... I'll probably get iBeat anyway just for the diagnostics, but wondering if the custom map capabilities are worth it on top? Exhaust: My main priority is lower weight and good exhaust flow. What sort of flow does the stock exhaust achieve, is it reasonable, particularly in the headers? (i.e. are slip-ons beneficial from this point of view) Or, do you need to get a full system in order to see much gain in power/torque? (in terms of peak values, and/or broadening the power/torque curve) Similarly what are the options here, I've seen: Slip-On: Arrow and Leo Vince (dual cans), FMF (quite a few choices) Full System: Leo Vince, FMF Headers (maybe?) Cush Hub Wheel: I'm thinking of building a new back wheel with a cush hub, using the Tubliss system (f+r for the Tubliss) and balancing the wheels. Any thoughts on what to use for the cush hub, I was hoping to use a Haan, but I haven't exactly looked into it in depth yet... Gearing: Assuming a 140/80-18 rear, I might also look at dropping the final drive as the wide ratio box looks great, but perhaps unnecessarily tall?... I'll rarely go over 150 km/h even when overtaking, I doubt cruise speeds will ever be higher than 120-125 km/hr. Playing around with gearing commander (http://www.gearingcommander.com/) and my spreadsheets I'd say: 15/47 looks pretty good for - Cruising 120 km/hr (5,275 RPM in 6th), Overtaking 160 km/hr (7,000 RPM in 6th), Super Slow 10km/hr (1,500 RPM in 1st). I could then drop to 13/47 if I thought i was going to be trail riding/single tracking a lot for some reason to get a bit lower in 1st. I have absolutely no idea how that fits with the standard chain length or counter sprocket sizes, I haven't got that far into it yet... Suspension: The bike has already had aftermarket compression damping valves fitted (no more detail on what exactly). I'm going to have to load up and gear up and see what the sag is like with half a tank of fuel and try and work out what the spring rates are looking like. I gather the front fork is pretty basic, does it even have preload or only rebound damping (and now compression damping)? What are the options for a fork upgrade, or are there basically none that are remotely cost effective?
Caveat: My experience is with a carbed 610, so some of the EFI/630 stuff I am not as familiar with. The clutch spring "mod" isn't really a mod, it's just a replacement of some factory parts that wear over time with some stronger units. See this thread: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/te610-outer-clutch-hub-spring-retainer-fix.25570/ Subframe bracing is only important if you're going to be hauling a lot of gear. I don't tour on my 610 much, and when I do I pack light, and my stock subframe is fine. I did need to re-weld the battery bracket, though. I'm not sold on a cush hub being that important, especially if you're riding in the dirt. One of the other members here just did a teardown after 50k miles on a supermoto, and he was just getting to the wear limit for the sprocket splines. It won't hurt anything, but they aren't cheap and LOTS of bikes don't have them, so I don't see it as a "must do." For gearing, I really like 14/45 for general dual sport use. I run 13/45 for really tight/tech riding, and still have plenty of top end. I'd run a larger rear (like 15/47) if I could, but I also run a 15/42 supermoto setup so my chain length is always a compromise. Suspension: you should find out what "aftermarket compression valves" is. Some years of 610/630 didn't have compression adjusters, so often guys will put the OEM comp adjuster bases in. The fork and shock on these bikes are quality units, and the stock settings aren't terrible (it's an order of magnitude better than a DRZ). However, any decent suspension shop (look to LTR, ZipTy for this work) can turn them from "pretty good" to "kickass" with relatively simple/cheap changes.
I also have the 610 - I found the Leo Vince slip on and the "power up kit" were the only two mods that were really essential (for the 630 you may want to replace the header on the exhaust so you can run with a single pipe). Other than that the bike runs pretty great stock. I assume it has hand guards and some kind of bash plate? For gearing, I started with a stock 15/45 gearing and then tried 14/45 which you can do without changing the chain. The bike has loads of power and I found I very rarely needed the grunt of the 14/45 for the conditions I ride in, and the lower gearing does mean you change gears more, and I sometimes like to be able to go fast, so I'm probably going to switch back to the stock 15/45. The subframe strengthening is important if you are planning a big touring trip with heavy luggage sitting on the tail. I use the Giant Loop luggage which carries the weight forward, and I haven't done the subframe mod, and have had no problems so far. If you do go touring, you might want to replace the seat with a Seat Concepts seat. Makes a huge difference. I run with the stock suspension. I reset everything back to the default settings and then slowly made modifications from there. I did replace the battery with a LiIon battery - saved a few pounds and no problems so far. My advice is to start with the exhaust and power up kit, and then hold off on other mods until you've spent more time seeing how the bike handles your riding style.
For the spring cups i would just pull the cover and see if they are worn.Some bikes seem to let go others do not. Exhaust you could always gut the stock pipes http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/my-take-on-converting-630-cans-to-flow-throughs.19706/ Made my bike a bit more punchy just with that mod. Cush hub Maybe look into getting the hub that has the rubber wedges not the donuts.Some have experienced the donuts failing more regularly on big thumpers. Gearing I have found 15/45 a good all round compromise for single track and open road with 120 D606 tyre. I ran stock gearing 15/42 in the sand and was constantly going up and down between gears. Suspension If the forks have been played with they should be ok.In QLD a few of the husky boys have had success with suspension matters at beerwah. For the Apc defiantly do the subframe mod and carry spare subframe bolts.I run a swag on the seat/guard and andystraps lightly loaded mounted forward and resting on the pillon pegs with my upgraded subframe and still broke a bolt. Does it have a safari tank?
Yep, has a Safari tank and a B&B bash plate. Will get some more details once i have it in my greedy little mitts, some time in the next week or two.
A cushhub is only an advantage if you are spending a lot of time on the road. I assume from your likening of the Tubliss system, that your are planning for mostly dirt. In the dirt, the greater sidewall flex, along with the springs in the clutch is enough. A Cush hub is heavier, an unsprung mass is something that you want to minimise, especially in the dirt.
Hi Sizzler, yep I hear you. Unfortunately there is a fair bit of road use for me in just getting to trails. I've decided to give the cush hub a miss at this stage, in favour of trying a Kush Sprocket. I'll revisit the cush hub if I go chasing a set of supermoto wheels.
Bike turned up, very happy with it's overall condition for the money, it's got some nicks and scratches (it's a dual sport after all!) but it looks pretty good to me! Haven't ridden it yet since its night time and pissing rain, but might get a chance to go for a quick spin tomorrow. Assuming no massive engine or clutch issue, I reckon it's going to work out pretty nicely. Steering head bearings are going to get replaced based on the feel of the bars and the gritty noise. At 15,000km's, is it likely that other bearings are going to need replacement as well? I'm thinking wheel bearings, swingarm pivots etc. Frankly I'd much rather spend a couple of hundred bucks, even if it's not strictly neccessary right at this exact moment, unless everyone thinks these bearings should go another 15,000km's before needing replacement... Still waiting on the parts boxes to arrive, but in the meantime, does anyone know the codes/serials that are written on the ECU to identify them? (trying to work out if the one that's currently in the bike is the Arrow tuned ECU, or if it's the ECU for the stock pipes)
It's probably not a bad idea to check the swingarm and linkage bearings. If they look good, you can just clean and grease them, if not you can replace them. Wheel bearings ought to be obvious if they need replacement or not. Those are easy enough to do that I don't do them as routine maintenance, I just check them every time I have a wheel off and replace them when they need it. If I was going on some huge trip I'd probably replace them ahead of time, though.
Sheesh. Before spending all that time and money, just ride the dang thing and discover if you love it or hate it. Do your major item services next winter. Of course that's just my opinion, and it's worth every penny you paid for it.
Had the worlds shortest first ride of about 10 minutes around the block (bikes not registered yet), and i really like the fuel injection, it's very smooth. Having never ridden a bike without a cush hub on the road before....wow, the take up in the driveline is substantially more violent without it; I'll definitely build a cush hub wheel if I don't feel the Kush Sprocket making enough of a difference there. The mechanical sympathy side of me just can't accept that. The bike is very comfortable and easy to ride at a casual pace due to the very smooth fuel injection and low rpm torque. Overall I would say it has a bit less punch than the DRZ (the DRZ is not stock) so I think I might investigate the exhaust + efi + dyno path, I'm not looking for a heap more, just a bit of extra kick. Might just be that it's geared taller than the DRZ as well. The Kush Sprocket I'm ordering is a 45t, so I'll gain some acceleration there anyway, see how it goes after that. The bike does get a bit of a wobble on once you go over 100 or so, and by 120km/hr it's quite noticeable, not sure if that's just the wheels being out of balance or something else. Overall, I don't think it's going take much work make it into a great dual sport bike for my purposes
I don't find the drivetrain snatch bad- check the condition and adjustment of the chain. Wobbly at 100k? Mine is stable at 180. Check those steering head bearings. It seems that moisture can get in through to hole in the head for the steering lock. Less grunt than a DRZ? They are a little disappointing before they are freed up. A pipe and JT tuner or something similar makes a big difference.
Yeah, but the DRZ has a 434 BB with an FCR39, Cams and a straight through MRD/SSW pipe. Plus it was running on SM tyres on 17" rims, so it probably has a substantially shorter overall drive ratio at the contact patch. I've ridden a stock DRZ400SM, and it's night and day from the one I have, never realised they were so gutless off the showroom floor! I'll wait for the other bits to turn up and ride it for afew weeks before doing anything rash like spending a grand on a PCV and dyno tune, don't worry. Be interested to see if the Arrow slip-ons liven it up a little In budgeting for the bike though, I was prepared to spend the money on a full exhaust and EFI retune, so if it comes to it, I'm not overly concerned. These bikes are a steal compared to a KTM 690 so I can dump a fair bit of cash and still come out ahead by comparison. But I reckon that wide ratio gear box is exactly what I was looking for, that was one thing that a 690 or my DRZ was never going to be able to solve! Head bearings are getting replaced, no doubts there. I'll double check the chain, but a quick lift of it with the toes didn't indicate that it was either excessively slack or overly tight.
My standard ECU no. is: ECU181-A, ECU181-A001A, 0559, bike being 2011 TE630. Re power compared to a DRZ, you do need to spend a little time & money to get the most out of the TE. The biggest increments I found were the power up kit & Arrows at the first service, then the JD kit a year or so later. Many have also added the Outerwears air filter box mod, which I didn't as I was concerned about the dust. The engine characteristics are also a little deceiving. It doesn't feel like the bike is accelerating hard, but I found I was arriving hot into corners for the first few rides compared with the DRZ. It's a long, loping, torquey engine rather than a real revver. Congrats on the bike, you'll love it. Perfect as a light adv tourer, & oh how nice the wide 6 speed transmission is compared with the short & narrow DRZ, which was hopeless on road.
Cheers Russ, and your absolutely right, I reckon it's going to be a great all round machine. This bike has the Outer Wears air box mod already which will be fine most of the time, I was thinking about trying to track down a second air box covering panel for dust and water reasons as well. Going to pick up the boxes of spare parts that came with the bike from the post office tomorrow, so I'll see where I'm at after I've thrown on the Arrows and checked out the state of the electronic diagnostics once the iBeat cable turns up.
If the drive is a bit snatchy, check the bolts on the rear sprocket. They are known to come loose, and do a lot of damage on the way out.
Will do, thanks Sizzler. I'll have to hit you up for knowledge on supermoto wheels as well. I've stripped the panels off the bike to have a quick look see. The rear subframe has previously cracked at the rear base of the seat rail on the LHS, as well as at the base of the battery tray on the LHS, however it has been repaired (even if the welding is a bit messy): Looks like it's also developing a new crack on the side opposite (RHS) to where it has been repaired on the seat rail previously: I'm thinking I will take the rear subframe off completely and do the subframe reinforcement mod at the same time as repairing that little crack in the seat rail mount on the RHS.
Hmmm, the two ecu's i have here are 0013 and 0015, otherwise they're labelled identically. Not sure which is which.... Actually the back of one has no readable label, and the other says TE 630 i.e. E/ 11 Australia.... Maybe when the iBeat cable turns up it will help to shed some light on what is what...
Just re-welding that battery box ain't gonna fix it. The design on those (I'll be honest, I'm only familiar with the 610, but I assume it is the same or similar) results in too much load/stress on that joint, and it'll break again. Some simple support/gusset work should permanently resolve battery box breakage issues. I've never seen those seat rail cracks before, although that doesn't mean much. I'll let the other 630 guys chime in on that...
