So, I have a te630 that is now difficult to start. My wr250r fires right up without any fuss, but the 630 is in addition to dragging the clutch all over the place in gear, hard to start in all sorts of weather. Hot. Cold. Wet. Dry. It doesn't matter. First start of the day is a bitch. And I do not believe it used to be this way. I basically try turning it over and then enrich with the lever on the left, then try again, and again, screw with throttle, try again, starts up and cuts off, try again, tray again THEN it fires up. It is terrible. About the bike: jd tuner, leo vince single exhaust, nothing else particularly special about it that would affect air/fuel things. Any suggestions on what to check outside of timing/chain/cam stuff which I have no clue how to do?
temp sensors were bad on some and there is a revised part number. Key was if the fan comes on when you turn the key on before starting
Yes check the temp sensor! How many miles on it, tight valves could cause hard starts. Is the fuel pump priming when you turn the key on? 15/40 rotella t-6 helps reduce clutch drag, did you have the clutch rod recall done? CouLd be jd tuner acting up, could you unhook it easily to try? Should start as easily as the WRR. Good luck!
Original temp sensor P/N 8000A6736 has been replaced by 8000H3649. I always use the fast idle lever when starting the bike for the first time or when it has been parked for a while, and never have a problem.
I will try the weight oil. Bike has 4503 miles on it fuel pump is priming, assuming that is the little wirring noise when you turn the key on and have the cut off switch set to on I did not know there was a clutch rod recall. I am also not the original purchaser of the bike. How would I check? Temp sensor - no idea if this was changed for similar reasons of not being first owner. I do not think the fan is coming on when I hit the key. In fact I do not know if I have ever even heard the fan run over the sound of the engine running at least. yes i can unhook the jd tuner easily. you pretty much just unplug it. I will need to write down my settings first (which are not perfect by any means) before I do so incase i have to do them over again after unplugging it. I agree. It should start as easily. It used to. To the subject of valves, I have never checked valves and do not know how to do so. I hope there is a husky shop manual somewhere. I have a manual on my computer somewhere but I did not see anythign in it relating to checking the valves.
I left a message with the dealer whose son I bought the bike from two years ago. Asked them to let me know if he had replaced the temp sensor and/or the clutch rod or whatever. I will follow up to that message tomorrow. Just went and found a shop manual on my computer (I forget I have stuff/did things a lot). So I guess if it comes to that I could do it. Question: What is a spring tool, where do I buy shims for the valves, and how do I measure the thickness of the shims? measure with this?: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GSLKIW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2ZSTDEXO9VTZF google says 630 shims are same as the yamaha 9.48 shims?: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GV9356/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A7A7QO7ETFNWF
They're 9.5's. I agree with Borgschulze, I think it's valves. This thread walks you through the nuances and has good pics: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/anyone-do-a-valve-adjustment-on-their-630.20314/
Just an easy check... If you don't want to tear into the valves, screw a compression check gauge in the spark plug hole and see what you get with the bike cold. If it pumps up to 125psi when you crank over the starter than valves aren't the problem. .
Are you sure? People are talking about 9.5 and 9.48 in that thread so much I am not sure which they think are correct. Does that .02 mm diameter make a difference? So just crank it over and watch the psi? How is it that this works as a check on the valves?
Sorry for the confusion...I did cite a rounded up number and it is 9.48 (it would have become clear when you order- the kits come in 7.48, 8.9 and 9.48.) Is the compression check a trusty way to gauge if they're w/in spec? That sure seems easier than fiddling off that valve cover and measuring in those tight areas.
We had a significant discussion about the matter in this thread: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/clutch-rod-an-oil-change.22695/ That thread is specifically about the clutch rod recall/TSB, so I'm not sure that I understand how you didn't know about it. Furthermore, in that thread I recommended that you change the oil to 5W-40 or 10W-40 (the poster in this thread recommended Rotella T6 in 15W-40, but it is only available in 5W-40, so I presume his post was a typo). Did you try that? Finally, you stated in the other thread that Solid Performance had your bike. What was the outcome of that service visit? I would not measure shim thickness with calipers. A micrometer is the only proper way to measure such a thing, IMO. Luckily a 1-inch micrometer is inexpensive, and they are very accurate and robust. I also have one that you could use if you like. It's not necessary to buy a complete kit, unless you can't handle having a bit of down time. The normal procedure is to measure the valve clearance, and then if a change is necessary, disassemble the head, measure the shims, and order the size(s) you need. Any Husky, Yamaha, etc shop should stock a large assortment and a decent shop will let you buy individuals. IMPORTANT NOTE: The first step in all this is simply to MEASURE the valve clearance, before you tear anything apart. This is done by removing the cover(s) (not sure if the 630 has small inspection covers like the 610 or if you just pull the whole valve cover as a unit), putting the engine at TDC, and measuring the gap with feeler gauges. Only after you do this should you bother disassembling the engine and shims. As a more general comment, while a compression test isn't a bad idea, I would not trust it to properly diagnose tight valves. Valves can have clearance (and therefore good compression) on a cold engine and yet get tight and cause starting problems on a hot motor. I suppose you could do the compression test hot and cold... In any case, I think that the valve clearances should be checked in the case of problems and at whatever interval Husky recommends. There are a variety of other possible issues related to the hard starting (temp sensor, air filter, spark plug, mixture, idle setting).
It wouldn't show you if you have a loose valve or borderline tight valve. In the OP's case it might be easier for him to borrow and screw in a compression checker than pulling valve cover, etc. If you have 50psi it ain't gonna start easy, if you have 125psi then valve lash isn't the cause of hard starting. Just sayin' this is an easy check... Another possibility with fuel injected singles is junk plugging up the injector over time. I have one of the metal CanAm in-line fuel filters the KTM guys run but have never gotten around to installing... .
Well like I said. I forget things, a lot. Chronically. It's sort of a big problem with me. I did not remember that conversation. Some people notice I make posts and come back to them sporadically, symptom of the 'disease' of extreme forgetfulness I suppose. Is what it is. After taking it to solid performance, it doesn't seem to drag as much but its not great. I mostly had it there for the suspenision anyway. "MEASURE the valve clearance, before you tear anything apart" - I do not know how I could do that without taking off the cover. I do not think there are any such inspection covers as you stated by looking at the shop manual. noted about the micrometer and kit vs individual shims. I really hate waiting on shit though and I rarely have time to go into my 'local' dealers... A 35 minute drive to Montgomery Cycle from work 'local'. Or the 2 hours to toy tech... Neither say 'local' to me.
I am not trying to be mean, but if you ask a question, and people put time/effort into answering it, and then you ask the same question again a month later because you "forgot"... You said you were going to take the bike to Solid to look at the clutch. What did they say about it? Did they adjust anything? What did they adjust? Did you try changing the oil like this and the other thread suggested? What oil did you put in? Did it help? Also, with regard to the drag, it's hard to even judge if your bike has a problem or not. How bad is the drag, what are the symptoms? All wet-plate, multi-disc clutches drag some, and Huskies tend to drag a bit more for whatever reason. It should not stall in gear due to drag, but it will be hard/impossible to find neutral when stopped, and it will be impossible to push any bike in gear with the clutch pulled in on a cold, not-running motor. This is normal. My point with the valves was that the first thing you need to do is just measure them with a feeler gauge, before you disassemble it or spend $100 on measuring tools and a shim kit. You can probably get the shims from a lot of places. You could also almost definitely call somewhere like Hall's and have them shipped in the sizes you need. If you'd rather buy the kit that's totally fine, just letting you know that there are cheaper alternatives.
well, rode around today and the neutral light starting flashing at me. Mont Cycle center cant work no it, Bromely's cant, Fast By Ferraci cant, Solid Performance cant. Do I have to ride 2 fucking hours out to fucking toy tech to get work done on this fucking husky now? Is there anyone else who can read codes on them here? i have to say if this ends up being the case I am going to sell this bike and get a wrr. Solid performance said they bled the clutch. Air in line. It got a lot better than it was but it isnt great. It is noticeably better I just thought maybe it could be better still because it seems to drag noticeably more than other bikes I have had in the past. "I am not trying to be mean, but if you ask a question, and people put time/effort into answering it, and then you ask the same question again a month later because you "forgot"..." - the "..." at the end implies a lot of snark. In any case I don't really care.
I don't think Kyle is trying to give you a hard time- in fact I think he's been going above and beyond in trying to help. While I and others can certainly understand the frustration I can't help but get the impression that for whatever reason you don't want to put the effort into this- the thread feels like you're trying to will it to get better by talking about it. Don't get me wrong- no offense intended at all- it's just how it comes across. Kyle is right, above and higher above in bold text ("important note"), when he says you've just gotta dive in and check the valves. All of that info, for the 630, is in this forum and the manual. It's mildly annoying fiddling that valve cover off, but still basic. A basic set of feeler gauges from your local auto parts place will be all you need, and patience to gain confidence in the feel/reading. You're measuring the gap...not the shim at this point. At your mileage with your symptoms it's most likely a valve adjustment issue. So any of these things are just a dig in and deal with it thing. Check/set valves. Works? Great. If not move on to the aforementioned sensor. Grab the shop manual, read up on how to test/troubleshoot and do it. If you're not comfy with it go to a bike forum that's regional (to talk to folks closer to home) and there's Always another rider w/ exp w/ these things that's happy to come to you and walk through it with you over a beer.
