I have a TE630 2011 with 21500 Km. This Sunday i went for a morning 200 Km ride and bike was pretty shaky all along, and more noticeable at smaller revs. Actually the shake had been happening for a while now. In the afternoon i was taking it for a wash, and about 1 km from home it stopped. I am unable to start it again. The electric starter turns but it would not start. Battery is fine and all fuses are ok. Beam and neutral green lights go on normally (without blinking). Before beginning to put things apart i wonder what the problem might be: -. Valves ? Bike has not had a valve check since it had 5.000 km or so. So valves maybe a possibility. -. Fuel Pump ? wonder if such a failure would be reported with a blinking neutral. -. Fuel Injector ? -. Spark plug ? I changed it about 5.000 km ago. -. Other ? Any advice welcome.
Throttle position sensor? Water in fuel? Describe "shake". Noise and engine vibration, or more like general rough running/cutting in out kinda thing?
Yes this was replaced some time ago. And this problem shows with a blinking neutral, if i remember well. Do not know about the throttle position sensor. How can i check this? It should not have water in the fuel tank. The shake is a heavy vibration (without a special noise) that's becoming worse lately and i suspect it has to do with the problem. It was not specially aggressive or rough when running/cutting gas, but it vibrated a lot. Looking through the mirrors you could not see much behind due to this.
Change your oil and show us your drain plug? Vibration could be drive train (chain/sprockets) related, or engine.
thanks for your input. Now i need sometime to start looking at the bike... by the way, i was amazed by the price of the disgnostic tool sold by husqvarna Italy (Varese factory) for the bike. 8000A9634 - SOFTWARE DIAGNOSTICA @ 927,34 euros....http://endurorecambios.com/recambio-original-husqvarna/14232-8000a9634-software-diagnostica.html Is there any other options just to diagnose the proper functioning of each of the electronic sensors? I see other tools for tuning, but just wanted the diagnostics at this time. Maybe ibeat or others do these diagnostics as well...in which case i would get one.
a colleague of mine who also owns a TE630 is pointing to the fuel-pump relay. I'd probably start with this.
Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key on? Read through the iBeat thread. iBeat does diagnostics as well as tuning. The thread has links to the software, and where to buy the cable, or parts to assemble your own cable if you have the time, knowledge, skills to do so.
Why not start with the obvious? does it have spark? or fuel? Crank position sensor if no spark or fuel pump if no fuel. Yes you can test the sensors with a simple ohm/volt meter.
What do you mean by shaking? Physical shaking of the bike? I wonder if you've sheared/lost the key on the crankshaft/flywheel/counterbalancer? .
so today, after 6 days without touching the bike, it started fine first go right after turning the key and pressing start. I left if on for a minute and stopped it with the key. After this no way it would start again. I came ready with a spare new relay but this did not make a difference. I tested battery and it's in pretty good shape. So i checked valves and found exhaust valves (front) are right on spec (filler gauge 0.15 goes in fine, 0.20 doesn´t), but intake valves (rear) gave 0.05 mm reading on the left intake valve and 0.00 on the right. The thinner gauge i have is 0.05 mm and this did not go in, so this is why i say 0.00. Manual says intake tolerance should be between 0.10 and 0.15 mm. I took out the shims for the intake and they both measure the same: 9.5 mm diameter and 2.15 mm thickness. So i guess i would be needing a 2.20 or 2.25 mm shim for the left and a 2.25 or 2.30 mm shim for the right. Now i have to order this. Am i right ? Do you think this intake valves out of tolerance could be the cause of bike not starting at all ? How about being guilty for the vibration ?
got the new shims calculations wrong: i would need a 2.10 or 2.05 mm shim for the left intake valve and a 2.05 or 2.00 mm shim for the right one
Could be. 0.00mm valve clearance could mean no compression = no start. The fact it started cold, but wouldn't restart warm supports this.
one q. The workshop manual specifies the timing chain (+slider +driven gear) should be changed every 20.000 Km. Now that i have the top open for the valves, is it straight forward changing the timing chain ?
Never done it myself. As the cam chain is on the flywheel side the flywheel probably needs to come off. I think you need a special puller.
It is on the flywheel side, and you will need a pulled, and maybe an impact air gun, and heat. I did mine at about 16,000 km because the engine was apart, but it showed no measurable stretch compared to the new one.
I got the correct shims for the intake valves. When reinstalling the cover i noticed the manual (page 198, section H-42) specifies to use a special compound (Smear Arexons 5552) around the half-round cutouts. What is this? I searched this forum but found nothing about this. I just put clean engine oil around the gasket perimeter.
http://arexons.it/en/products/profe...tenance/joints/rhodorseal-5552-original-black you can buy it in a store of spare parts for cars
