• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc TE450 -> WR250 Brake Pedal Retro-fit

Cosmokenney

Husqvarna
Pro Class
I read that Husky 4 stroke brake pedals bolt right on to the WR. And it was stated that they are straight instead of bent in too close to the case like the WR. Having it bent in like the stock WR is awkward and makes it hard to find the pedal with your foot. I always seemed to be missing it just when I needed it the most :banghead: I purchased a used TE 450 pedal on eBay. Turns out it was from Bill's! :applause: Here's a pic of my WR and the TE pedals SxS. The WR pedal is on the right, err, top (you can see what I hacked together one day before a ride to make the tip more accessible -- it ended up staying on there for 2 months :thumbsup:):

Brake0.jpg

Well, it does bolt right on, and I didn't even have to change the reach adjuster position. One slight problem, though. The WR uses a pin to attach the rear of the pedal to the master cylinder push-rod. However the TE's pedal has a threaded insert where the WR pin is supposed to go:
Brake1.jpg

The pin won't fit. But you can press the threaded insert out. To press the insert out, heat the pedal with a torch or heat gun. And place a 1/2" nut under the pedal, directly below the insert:
Brake2.jpg

Use a 7/16" bolt to hammer out the insert:
Brake3.jpg
 
A few good whacks and she's out:
Brake4.jpg

The other thing was that the TE lever had a tiny tip. Conveniently the WR's was actually quite a bit bigger. Inconveniently, however, they are both connected to their respective levers by a pin that was either pressed or welded. There was a little blob of metal on the outside that keeps the pin from coming out. So I ground that blob off and with some serious whacking, I got the pin out. So I swapped the tips, and bolted it in place with an M6 bolt which fit right into the hole where the pin used to be. I liberally loctited it and used a locknut to make sure it isn't going to fall out.

Here it is on the bike:
Brake5.jpg

It's in the perfect position :banana:

It is somewhat exposed, so I promptly installed an "Ace Hardware" brake snake.
 
I looked at my 511 pedal too. It is bent (stock) out the other way to accommodate the wide clutch case. It might be too far over to the outside, not sure. I'll look again. But the TE 450 pedal is just right. It only cost me $33, and I bet the can be found cheaper if you aren't as impatient as me.
 
I actually like the position of the lever on my wr. Took a few rides to get used to it but I have no problems with it now, and I like how it is tucked out of the way.
If anyone else rides my bike its, "up on tank and kick backwards to start it and tuck your foot in to stop".
 
So will this Bolt up to a WR300 as well???

http://m.ebay.com/itm/231504511980?nav=SEARCH

Heath

Not sure about that. It says it fits a TE 450, which is what the pedal I used came from. But take a look at my first post. On the TE lever, I had to press the insert out of the rear hole for the plunger pin. This eBay one doesn't have an insert, so the hole diameter may be too small. You could probably get away with a smaller diameter pin or bolt. But the sleeve that fits over the hole, will still have a large diameter hole, so you may need to put some spacers in there. Take a look at how the whole thing attaches to the master cylinder and it will make more sense.
 
I went out on a limb couple years back and just bought a new lever from Bills. Bryon the parts guy at Bills says the old Husky's only had two levers for all bikes. I'll see if I can find my old thread for you guy's. I bought an ebay Billt tip for mine and it worked out nice.
 
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