TE450 neutral issues and slave cylinder pushrod guidance needed

I figured it about time to take care of my issue of my bike not want to go into neutral...the only way for me to get it in is to turn it up, pull in the clutch and list the shifter up by hand....I've been reading that some find that the pushrod is not long enough and not fully disengaging (?) fully...how can one tell if this is the issue...attached is a pick of my rod...notice the worn area in the one pic that goes all the way around the rod...i believe this is from when my cylinder whent bad and I had to force the gears to get the bike home...does that seem right? now i believe the no neutral issue existed before that incident...also is the dimple in the end of the rod normal? does this rod still seem usable? i checked the fluid level and that is good and dont seem to have any air in the line. any suggestions?

Fix for my 06 510 clutch issues was an aftermarket, double oring slave cylinder piston. Lots of folks were having clutch issues with that era of Huskys.
I think the folks making the part were a vendor on this site. If I recall correctly, it was about 1/2 the price of an OEM piston. Cleared my troubles right up.
Hope this helps.

do you recall what brand it was....i put it all back together and it seems to go into neutral now if you are gentle enough with the shift..dont think it is correct though...of course as i was doing this i see dripping from the radiator hose..apparently i need a new T fitting

Man I'm sorry, slept too many times since then. But somewhere around here would be a link to it. And also a y fitting is available that will improve cooling over that t fitting.

To me, this is a case of the rod is not long enough to fully separate the clutch pack, meaning some of the engine torque is still getting through the clutch, and that makes finding neutral hard to do. All other shifting is really not affected since you don't need a 100% engine torque cut-off to shift up or even down.

The engine cases might be a tad wider than spec, the gasket in between the case halves might be a little thicker and the clutch rod might be a little shorter than spec, it all adds up to one thing: the clutch is not being fully pressed open by the rod.

SOLUTIONS:

Find a way to shim the rod, like weld a tit on the end and then grind it down until it's nice and smooth

Get a longer rod. Either make one or measure the one you have and see if a new OEM rod is longer.

put the bike back together and it seems to be working now...did add more fluid to the master cylinder yesterday when i checked for air, so maybe it needs to filled all the way up...will have to take it for a real test ride next week

From another forum:

My TE250 wouldn't get neutral.
Bought a new pushrod for $45

New one was 1.5 mm longer. Old one worn out.
Problem solved.