TE449 Starts Hard First Time

2013 TE449 starts hard first start of the day. Once warm a slight crack of throttle and it starts good. Slight crack of throttle for first start does not help. FMF exhaust, race map 3, butter fly removed, all emissions removed. Run strong now. Adjusted air screw to about 3 turns out and did quick TPS calibration. When trying to start first time it will backfire and run on like flooded. Then suddenly just start and run great. Did not always do this and didn't do it after BF was removed. Maybe a crash messed up TPS position some? I have not adjusted the TPS yet.

Mine never likes it if I touch the throttle during starting.

Check regular things like spark plug and ground wires

Does the cranking speed sound normal on that first start?
It could be the battery a little weak & winding slightly slow. Best way to check would be to do the first start with some jumper leads attached & see if it helps.
If that seems to be the trouble, I'd fit a lithium battery.
Not sure where you're located, but if in the states, maybe try one of the Earth-x batteries, over here in Aus we have the SSB range.

Nope not the battery, It has plenty of cranking speed. It is back firing out the pipe. It sounds like a flooded engine when it is just starting to catch, but cant quit do it. Almost starting and causing the engine speed to increase. but doesn't quit get there. If flooded adding some throttle will lean it and help, but this seems to not help. Just have to leave throttle and crank it, then suddenly it just starts and runs great. I think it may be too rich at start up. When it starts there is no sign of having difficulty, runs great. Think the JD power surge 6X will allow me to tune the mixture properly?

It would be worth checking the coolant & air temp sensors for correct resistance.
At rest before starting, both readings should be fairly close to each other. A big difference may mean one has failed.
If this starting thing is something new it might be something like that.

Also, check the rubber air connection from the throttlebody to the head. The clamps can be loose & draw air.

With regards to the idle mixture, the brass air screw adds more air to increase idle speed, but unlike a carb mixture screw, it doesn't add fuel as well. Changes to the screw setting have an effect on the mixture.
Try setting it in a bit to lower the idle speed a little & see if that helps.
It is possible to increase the mixture by adjusting the TPS & increasing the voltage slightly.
Obviously you can do this with a JD or PCV as well.

I had a lot of hard starting issues when I first purchased my bike. I added a power commander setup, and leaned out the cranking RPM's around 10-15% (another member's suggestion) and have had great luck ever since.

I tried to adjust the air screw in, lowering the idle. No real effect. I will check the sensors. I think it is rich at cranking. Does the 6x allow for adjusting enrichment at idle? Will the 6x allow for enough tuning so a stock ecu (non map 3) can be used as is with it?

I don't have a tuner on my bike. Only set the mixture through the TPS voltages.
Stock TPS voltage is 0.7v, less is leaner, more is richer. I have mine on 0.8v for my Akro slip-on muffler.

If one of the temp sensors is sending incorrect messages, it may cause it to be rich also.

If I'm understanding correctly on how the air screw works, lowering your idle would be making your issue worse (less air, same amount of fuel). I can't answer your question on the 6x, but the PC4 definitely allows you to add or take away fuel.

Correct, if you think it is rich, screwing it out will add air & lean it out.

The TPS voltage setting is what helped my bike the most. I had issues with rough idle & a big flat-spot just after idle.
See if this is of any help to you.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/449-511-manually-setting-tps-using-test-leads.43940/