te449 hot start and idling issue

i have a prob on my 2012 te 449. was having a hard time with hot starts but would always fire up then run good. But today it ran good after 2 or 3 hot starts then would hardly fire up . And when it did ,wouldnt idle. Had to keep it running with throttle to get almost home. then wouldnt start and had to push home five blocks. just bought bike used in january with 450 miles on it.Bike now has 800 miles on it . brass screw on throttle body came 3/4 of a turn further out than what is recommended. bike wont start with recommended turns!?!? would appreciate any help as dealers are few and far away. valve adjustment ? pcv ? butterfly removal? maybe check spark plug.

just tried it today . starts but wont idle. any suggestions

My sold 13 449 I did the tps reset, and ran the brass screw out 5 1/4 turns, I think recommended was about 3 turns out. With the bike not running turn the brass screw all the way in then back it out 5 1/2 ish turns, do tps reset and hit start button so fuel pump primes then fire it up. Follow tinkens tps reset procedure worked great for me, no more flame outs or stalls. I had map 3 and fmf slip on also good luck. Also there are one way little valves by the back fender that fail mine did and restrict fuel to the motor so check those. Just fyi it took me a while to figure bike out lots of little quirks. Dangermouse is a big supporter of butterfly removal which you could look into also...again good luck

thanks man, really appreciate your input, great to have this support system.

did tps reset and backed screw out 5 turns. now bike starts and idles high for 10 secs then stalls everytime. very frustrated.

Turn it in a quarter turn til idle comes down, stalls when revved? Or just turns off?

just turns off (stalls) by itself when idling after 10-15 seconds. can keep it running with throttle but wont idle . just ordered tps voltage breakout harness. will check and possibly reset tps voltage when it arrives. what else can i check in the mean time? where exactly are these valves by the rear fender?

I'm chasing a similar issue on my 2013 TXC250 right now. Same symptoms. I ruled out plugs, gas, injector, dirty throttle body, TPS reset and the idle screw. I'm betting on a bad fuel pump, which is on order. It seems to be a common failure mode on these bikes. If the pump fixes my issue, I'll check back in or you can follow my thread.

Fuel pumps themselves aren't a common issue, however, blocked fuel filter bags are quite common with old stale, or dirty fuel. Unfortunately the filter bag isn't a separate part.

I would first check the tank breather hoses aren't pinched under the plastics or frame somewhere.
It may be creating a vacuum in the fuel system.
(try starting and running it with the fuel cap off)

There are also small filter baskets in the fuel taps between the tanks, worth checking those.

Next would be to remove the pump tank and inspect the pump filter. Try cleaning with carburettor cleaner and a toothbrush if dirty.

It would also be a good idea to uncouple, clean/spray all efi connections and reconnect to see if possible resistance in the sensor readings is affecting running.

There's no 'magic' number of turns for the brass idle screw and the electronic TPS reset never changed a thing on the bikes I've worked on.

Mike, sounds fuel related at this point. The valves are on each side of the bike just in front of the rear fender, mine were green and white, theyre a one way valve, round, and keep the bike from vapor locking and or leaking fuel. Mine would start, idle, and then act like it was running out of gas. I called my dealer and luckily the head mechanic was a husky nut and knew exactly where to start. 69 cent part and all was good again.

just got a chance today to take seat and plastics off and start to t-shoot. tried easiest first ,fuel cap off and same issue. found 1 green white filter in line with fuel breather but figured if bike wont idle with gas cap off that's not the issue.will uncouple all efi connections and clean tomorrow (naturally with power disconnected..correct?). are the filter baskets between tanks a silver thumbscrew. I've located 2 of these and wondered what they were. how do they come apart? I've turned them both ways and they just stop in either position.where is the fuel pump and how much disassembly is needed to remove the tank. once again ..thanks for the time taken in answering a novice, its very much appreciated. need to get back in the dirt soon p.s. dangermouse is the filter bag same as the pump filter?

Correct on the one way valve. (cap off disproves that)
The thumb screw taps are help into the tank with two screws, the filter is on the intake inside the tanks.
The pump tank isn't fun to remove, do that as your last item.... There's a fair bit of stuff in the way and even then you need your tongue in just the right spot!

Well,
I replaced the pump on my bike and the issue is persisting. I won't poach your thread, but I'll follow your progress. We have the same symptoms.

Ok, got back from Americade ( big bike event in northeast of U.S.A.) and finally got a chance to work on it a little while. Pulled apart most electrical connectors and cleaned. Found and pulled apart tps connector and checked voltage with breakout harness (35$ ..REALLY??). Voltage read 4.19vdc from factory. I have an adjustment range from 4.00 to 4.64 (swinging sensor from one way to the other), what should it be?Tried starting bike in a number of positions (voltage readings) with same result ...no idle. Put back to 4.19 and tightened and removed harness tool. Then installed earth x battery thinking maybe computer wasn't seeing enough voltage (also will help with hot starts). Still no idle..can keep running even with smallest amount of throttle but as soon as i let throttle go...dead. Next i guess I'll try filters under thumbscrews but do I need to drain all fuel for this? How is that accomplished? Is it possible it could be one of those temp sensors I'm reading about? Is it the one screwed into the radiator? Looks easy to change . Expensive? Running out of hope, nearest shop hours away and no trailer hookup

by the way ,also read on display" map 2" if that matters

Unsure how you managed 4.xx V from the TPS sensor...
Correct idle voltage for the primary sensor is 0.7v with the throttle closed and tops out around the high 3v, low 4v range.
The important voltage is the closed throttle setting. (0.7 - 0.75)
The three pins on the test plug set should read 5.0v (sensor power) 0v (sensor earth) and the above idle reading (0.7).

On the throttle body picture attached, item 5 is the Primary TPS. Item 6 is the Secondary TPS, item 4 is the Map sensor.

Was using black wire as 0 volts during measuring ( as shown on video given with harness). After I followed danger's video, taking 0 volts from cylinder, I set voltage correctly. Still no luck. Next I'll try filters in gas tanks.

So you have 0.7v a little more at idle now?

The reason I highlighted Item 4 Map sensor in the above picture, was my own TE449 somehow spat my o-ring seal out from under the sensor.
My engine refused to idle and had to have throttle to start.
I only found it when I started substituting sensors and parts trying to find the issue.
The air leaking at the sensor was giving an incorrect vacuum reading to the ecu....
If you are going to check it, you don't have to fully remove the holding clamp (better if you dont) you can swing it to one side, check and reassemble without having to restart the little tiny screw.

It's also worth checking the throttle body to head rubber boot clamps are tight also.

cool ill check both tomorrow.

yes set to .7 volts