TE310 Tank insert repair/stripped

I anti seized my tank bolts from day one. Well today I try to remove a bolt and f#%k there is a spinning insert. How do I fix this without throwing any more money at this bike... Also my inaugural ride with the new 12 hole injector and ecu was not the experience I thought Id have. Maybe some ibeat tuning can get it in check.

Doh! I recently did that when putting my fuel pump back in. I took a high speed drill to the bolt and spun it until it smoked a bit and the plastic around the insert got soft. The insert slid right out. Filled the hole with JB Weld and stuck the insert back in. Let it cure overnight and it worked like a charm.

Yeah this issue really has me bummed. Not only is nearly every single insert on the tank spun out (total joke) but there are 2 inserts in my sub frame that are spun (not cross threaded) too. I've had this bike 2 months and I'm afraid every time I turn a bolt.

The torque value for those bolts is only 4.4 ft.lbs if I'm not mistaken. That is a very light touch if not using an inch lbs. torque wrench and almost seems not tight enough to keep them in the inserts. I use a 1/4 inch drive(torque wrench set to 52 inch pounds) to tighten them.

I used anti seize and a small 1/4 drive ratchet and go easy on it. I noticed they were steel and not brass on the insert material. Maybe thats why? Any way I will try the drill trick latter.

Is your bike a 2011? Any reason to have the fuel pump out?

Still under warranty? Go back to the dealer and have them sort it out.

It is an 08. The pump had slipped from it's holder...again. Common problem with these from what I understand.

I'll assume Husky fixed fuel pump problem on the 2011's?
Any issue with the high pressure fuel line?

see this topic from last year.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/spinning-insert-solution.4253/page-2

I have been using the ezlock inserts since last year and they are better then factory. Even better it is a 5 minute fix. Use drill to spin the old one out heating up the plastic and pulling it out. The hole left is the perfect size for these inserts. Once these inserts are in they are stronger then the factory. I have had zero problems since switching to these. I highly recommend them. I had tried the epoxy and jb weld routes in the past but they always ended up failing at some point.

I have had my plastics off countless times and luckily haven't had any problems (well I've had multiple problems but not this one!) with spinning inserts.

On my 2010 310 I believe my inserts are Brass so that may be why I have been so lucky? I dont have a torque wrench so I only use a 1/4" spinner handle on the plastics so i can never go harder than hand tight - I have never lost a panel or a bolt yet.

Also worth noting, i read in Trailzone Mag that even the 2011 TE 630 has the same issue.. Husky R&D needs to type "Logic" into google and find out about learing from mistakes..

Fingers crossed!

Found some E-Z Lok inserts as recommended by "dtaplay" on Ebay: Spinning insert solution.. Cheers..

Fat tire flyer, get one bolt with a shoulder on it to use for installation. The shoulder will allow you to counter sink the insert just below the tank plastic and allow for a very snug fit of your plastics when done. Because I ended up using the imperial versions I went out and got black pan head bolts with a philips head on them (easy to find at my local hardware store) to hold all my plastics. As far as I am concerned this is the way they should have come from the factory. This worked so well for me I purposely removed the few remaining factory brass inserts and installed the E-Z lock inserts. I have never had a problem since!

The inserts on the sub frame are an easy fix. They are a riv-nut or thread-sert that is put in with a pair of pliers that resembles a rivet tool. The Husky factory did not set them in hard enough. I bought an Astro Pneumatic riv-nut kit for less than $40 and simply threaded the tool back in and finished tightening the inserts. The pliers squish the insert out like a rivet and once they are tight like they are supposed to be they won't go anywhere no matter how tight you tighten the nut. If you do any fabricating that requires a threaded nut in a blind hole like tubing or mounting mirrors to a door this tool will serve you well, all you have to do is buy the different sized inserts. http://www.tooltopia.com/astro-pneu...&utm_term=AST1427&utm_campaign=googlebase_18u

@ lankydoug.... Can I ask what specific insert you used? I have some from M5's and tool from MSC Tool but the out 'flange' so to speak of isn't wide/strong enough enuf to pinch against the frame. They also seam to be a little to big to fit inside the excisting hole..... having to file the hole bigger to get it in!!!

My inserts were spinning in the frame so I just used the the tool to expand the still in the frame factory inserts and it tightened them up nicely. The factory one looks like this http://www.tooltopia.com/marson-47411.aspx

what tool????

This tool http://www.tooltopia.com/astro-pneu...&utm_term=AST1427&utm_campaign=googlebase_18u is used to tighten these http://www.tooltopia.com/marson-47411.aspx inserts which is what comes in the sub-frame from the factory. The factory just didn't chinch them down tight enough so they spin.

Thank You Lankydoug... I'll get a hold of the tool next week and give it a try!!! You posted a link for 6m... Are your sub frame inserts 6m's. Mine are 5m's...... THANKS AGAIN