TE310 stalls when hot

My TE310 2009 model, with only 2900km's on it, stalls and bogs when hot. It will run fine, then seems to stall when I try to keep it alive, with more throttle. I also still have a problem of trying to get the bike to idle, even though I have cleaned the injector, replaced the intake manifold, and cleaned/re-oiled the air filter. Could it be getting hot and the valve clearances are tightening up, not allowing enough fuel to get into the cylinder and escape? My new spark plug also has also developed carbon deposits only after a ride or two.

Does it run a bit better when cold? It could be a failing coolant temperature sensor (CTS). The spark plug is hinting at this.

(btw, I really doubt it's your valves)

Other intermittent heat-related electrical failures to consider are the trigger coil and ignition coil- both can get weird when warm. The spark plug could get fouled by these 2 conditions also.

8 year old bike with 1800 miles on it, probably the fuel pump is varnished up, and when hot, the pump expands and stops spinning.

My vote would be for fuel pump - heat related, my 2010 exhibited some issues like yours, swapped fuel pump it fixed it. when it stalls and you turn on ignition dies the fuel pump prime?

Yes when it stalls, the bike will start back up right away, I will take it to a Husqvarna dealer to get them to use iBeat.

I had a similar issue with my 2008 TE250. The problem ended up being the coil. Couldn't find an '08 coil so I used the '09 one. Once the coil was replaced, it ran great. I got one from Jetworld Powersports for 44 bucks plus shipping. They have never failed to get the parts I need for my '08 and '13 Huskys... except for the '08 coil.

I did have to let it cool down a bit before it would fire back up though.

Turns out all of my idling and running problems came from a mushroomed valve and worn piston rings. Just gotten the bike back now and it idles and runs perfectly!!!

I guess the lesson there is that a tune-up is not going to help a bike that needs a rebuild.

OTOH, what's going on where you practically need a complete upper-end on a bike with only 1800miles- did you run it out of oil? Those big block motors have a pretty good rep for being tough.

(And the black spark plug would've been from the bad rings)

I wonder if bad coolant flow started your troubles. And I just thought of this- make sure you have oil flow to the upper end. even after the rebuild... at least look for oil in the top of the head.

Congratulations and thanks for coming back with the report.

Thanks, i'm glad too that it's now running. So I bought the bike with the issue. The mechanic at Husqvarna said that the engine had been 'dusted' causing excessive wear to the rings and valve, most likely from poor air-filter maintenance. Now one other issue i'm having is that when the bike gets hot, I am having trouble getting the bike into neutral. It will shift fine throughout all the gears when hot, but I cannot get it into neutral no matter how carefully I try. When the bike is cold and has only been run for 10/15 mins, it will easily slip into neutral. Once I turn the bike off and let it cool for a couple of minutes I can then also get it back into neutral. The mechanic at Husqvarna did say that a seal near my clutch lever was leaking and I was wondering if this had anything to do with the issue?
Thanks

Most performance dirt bikes are designed to "skip" neutral during shifting. Don't want to hit neutral when riding hard.

I had flameout issues and found it was the fuel injection electronic module. Very expensive to replace but no more flame outside.

wait... was this the solution in your other thread? an ECU replacement??

I thought your shop installed a new TPS/M.A.Q.S. on the throttle body; or even a new throttle body (because I think the Mikuni TBs were funny this way?). what's you bill say? or even better: did you get any of your old parts back? (always a good policy)

They replaced the complete throttle body unit. I did get old one back, which I will look over one day.