Te310 Questions

I have a few questions regarding my 2009 TE310 (formally 250 before a big bore kit).

Recently the battery died. I looked around and was quoted close to $200 for a new one. Didnt want to spend that so i went to a local place who makes their own batteries. They gave me one that they said was the same specs for $30. I gave it a shot because of how much cheaper it was. Bike ran great for the first week then the battery started to die. Brought it in and was told it was a dud. Was given a new one, which again worked for a while, although odd things started to happen after a few weeks. Fuel pump sounded odd (not the consistent moan), the lights started to flicker at random times, then it would die if given any gas (would only ride slowly in 1st gear), and finally wouldn't start. After putting the battery on a trickle it still wouldnt start, although it does now with a new plug. It runs now, although the fuel pump still doesnt sound normal. Almost raspy. I pulled the fuel pump out of the tank and hooked it directly up to the battery and it sounded fine. A consistent moan. I hooked a car battery up to the bike (not just the fuel pump) and the fuel pump did sound better. The symptoms dont seem like just a bad plug. What else could have been going on? Since this all began after I got a cheap battery, what is a link/ name of the correct battery?

Next, the bike came with a powercommander and autotune, although not plugged in. I was told by Bills Husky that running an autotune on a 1 cylinder is bad for the engine, and the powercommander alone will do. Is this correct? Also- should I map the powercommander for a 250 or 310? Wasnt sure if anything would be screwed up by using a 310 map if other components of bike still believe that it is a 250.

Thanks.

measure your battery voltage (bike off): looking for 12.6v or even better. No? bad battery

start your bike up, wait 30 seconds and measure the voltage: 13.8-14.5v (really 14.2 or a bit better; too high is bad also). No? bad charging system (regulator, stator, battery again or wiring)

I got an el-cheapo lead-acid AGM battery off of ebay for $24 delivered... it lasted a year before going belly-up, and then they sent a free replacement ($6.50s&h). I don't know what you were planning on buy for $200 but most Li batteries are cheaper, and the stock Yuasa is like $80-90 IIRC

off hand, I would guess you have a charging problem (IOW, you're running "total loss" or on the battery only; and it's killing them).

is this related to your electrical problems about a year and a half ago? (headlight, taillight assembly)

Nope, it is not. Tail light ended up being the switch that activates the brakelight. Just needed some adjustment. The headlight it just a bad connection at the plug behind the headlight. I could hold it together and get it to work fine. I ended up putting a LED lightbar on since the headlight wasnt that safe/bright anyways if i were to fix the connection. It ran fine for a year with the LED bar on it, so i dont believe that it is attributed to it.