• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE250 yeah haw!

R_Little

Husqvarna
Pro Class
My '10 TE finally runs great.

I've criticized it for poor engine performance in general.

It just would not pull clean at low rpm and would stall constantly in the tight. I raced my old 2 stokes instead.

Well I had it reflashed and took it to the MX track to sort it. I ended up at 103 100 102.

I rode it at Hancock DS on Sat and it's a changed bike!

It ran perfect.....stalled only twice in 75 miles....went 45 miles on 1.5 gal of gas. Ran down to zero rpm and never flamed out. pulled hard down low and ran well up top too. Now it feels like a perfectly jetted bike instead of one with a fouled up carb.

I don't know if it was the additional mileage on the bike or the reflash but it is SUPER now!
 
Good to hear. That is one thing they will do when tuned right is pull a high gear from low rpm smoothly.
 
That's great to read, man! Amazing what a simple firmware update can do for a nagging issue. I just tweaked my CO's for the 2nd time after the reflash and can now say it's hot digiddy! Today was the first ride with 102,104,104 after trying much richer settings and it loves it. Lots of fun! Got to ride with my daughter in some pretty sandy/loamy stuff at a local ORV park, lugged the heck out of it and no booooooooooog at low rpm.
 
Great news Rich. I have to call George at T&C to get mine sorted out and based on your post it will have to be sooner rather than later. Unfortunately I thing I am also having issues with the temp sensor because the bike will simply not start with e-start when hot...
 
rubenguallar;113993 said:
Great news Rich. I have to call George at T&C to get mine sorted out and based on your post it will have to be sooner rather than later. Unfortunately I thing I am also having issues with the temp sensor because the bike will simply not start with e-start when hot...

What does the temp sensor have to do with e-start? The computer shuts it down at a certain temp?
 
I'm in the process of getting the 2nd starter put into my bike as I type this. When the bike is hot it barley turns over. once it cools for 5 min or so it starts right up. I'm not sure if this might be the same issue with yours or not, just a thought.

Doug
 
I'm in the process of getting the 2nd starter put into my bike as I type this. When the bike is hot it barley turns over. once it cools for 5 min or so it starts right up. I'm not sure if this might be the same issue with yours or not, just a thought.

Let us know if the new starter fixes the problem. I'm experiencing the same symptoms with my bike.
 
I don't know for certain if it is the temp sensor but considering I only have issues with the e-start when the bike gets hot I figured the temp sensor had something to do with it. It basically doesn't want to turn over, almost the same symptom as if the battery was dead, but when it's cold I have no issues starting it at the first try...
 
To me then it sounds like the starter. When my temp sensor went out the bike would crank fine, it wasn't until I un-hooked the sensor that it would actually fire. Anyhow I am sure the dealer will be able to solve it.
 
I would double check your ground wires from the battery to the top of the cam chain tensior on the right side rear of the cylinder and also if the positive battery cable ever got real hot.

I still would check voltage at the battery and down at the starter "WHEN HOT" and not turn over properly..

That starter and worm drive from the 2010's 250 are pretty simple.. but if the starter is free then something else must be binding up..

Chow, Carl
 
So explain how you got the bike reflashed? Did you go to a dealer or buy ibeat? My 09te510 always seems to flame out early.
 
rubenguallar;114301 said:
I don't know for certain if it is the temp sensor but considering I only have issues with the e-start when the bike gets hot I figured the temp sensor had something to do with it. It basically doesn't want to turn over, almost the same symptom as if the battery was dead, but when it's cold I have no issues starting it at the first try...

I dunno. The heat will make the starter resistance go up and could make it not run.
 
Jrmobb;114371 said:
So explain how you got the bike reflashed? Did you go to a dealer or buy ibeat? My 09te510 always seems to flame out early.

I believe the "reflash" is only for the 2010 TXC/TE 250 model bikes.

I have also experienced the "starter" issue on my 2010 TXC 250. It only happened once, climbing a long, steep uphill. I was at full throttle, riding back up, when I heard the fan kick on (only time its ever kicked on). When I got to the top of the hill, the bike died and when I hit the button, it would not crank over...Kickstarted it, rode away and after about 10 seconds the fan turned off. Stopped, used the e button and it fired right up :excuseme:

I just think its just one of those quirky things on this bike....When the motor gets hot, the starter, for whatever reason, doesnt work...The funny thing is, it fired right up with the kickstarter...

But then again, this bike is hard to overheat. Like I said, thats the only time the fan has come on and I have ridden this bike in some pretty serious single track (hard enduro), So Cal type stuff and I raced the Idaho City Qualifier mudfest this year. The bike was caked in mud from front to back (radiators were completely clogged) and it never got hot or didnt want to start after stalling (crashing related :lol:)

I would maybe try different coolants and see what works better for your riding area. Maybe remove the thermostat, put a higher pressure radiator cap. I dont think replacing the starter is the solution. Again, just suggestions.

Hope this helps, Mitch
 
I have a question about the tranny in these bikes.

From what I've been able to gather the 2010 TE 250 and the 2011 TE 250/310 have a fairly narrrow gear range for a six-speed. The trails I ride in the Washington Cascades are often quite technical single track with up to 30 miles of 55 - 60 mph highway connecting sections or to get back to camp.

Bikes like the WR250R and KLX250S have a wide enough tranny to use over the wide range of speeds but are heavy and are a different class for off-road use.

How fast could you ride the TE 250 short distances on the highway when geared for technical single track?
 
I have a 52 tooth on my 2010 TE250 and it cruises about 45-50 , but it really doesnt want to cruise any faster,it will still however run 70+ MPH whith the throttle pinned!
 
Fury1.... I've felt that my te needed a taller gear and was thinking of a 52tooth myself. have you had your ecm reflashed yet? If not does it seem like it pulls a bit better on the hills?
 
mine has been reflashed and seems to pull a gear out of the corners and hills much better,but im actually thinking of trying a 54 to get rid of first,its just too tall of a gear for tight single track still,just worried about crunching it in the rocks,but im also still messing with the I-beat,right now im at 108,102,102 and left the TPS at 996,then backed the throttle stop back out and in 1/4 turn,seems fine,but just wont crawl around like my 09 TXC,WR144 and my 05 GG 250,I know its not the FI its the trans ratio,just wont work in my area of the country or terrain
 
fury1;114560 said:
mine has been reflashed and seems to pull a gear out of the corners and hills much better,but im actually thinking of trying a 54 to get rid of first,its just too tall of a gear for tight single track still,just worried about crunching it in the rocks,but im also still messing with the I-beat,right now im at 108,102,102 and left the TPS at 996,then backed the throttle stop back out and in 1/4 turn,seems fine,but just wont crawl around like my 09 TXC,WR144 and my 05 GG 250,I know its not the FI its the trans ratio,just wont work in my area of the country or terrain

I dunno.. Mine lugs now.

It's almost like my WR250 that will run no matter how slow and what gear as long as oyu hold the gas on.

It NEVER farted and flamed out last week at Hancock.

I was B-SSR hanging off the back of the seat not able to shift up a hill in 3rd and it kept pulling at low rpm I kept opening the throttle expecting a pop and stall and lo and behold it kept going.

I did have to increase the low c/o a bit in order to get it to do it but I and on 103 100 102 now.

You can ride it at speedsville if I bring it.

Rich
 
Back
Top