Te 310 suggested oil

I was considering and comparing different oil brands for my te 310 and I've found that many 310 owners use mobil1 0W40. I've also found that castrol power 1 racing 5W40 has viscosity specs really close to what tinken suggested years ago. Before i start the engine for the first time in its life i absolutely need to change the oil, castrol P1 10W50 put in the factory in 2013, (also the paper filter with stainless) i do not know if it's better replacing the P1 10W50 with the 5W40 or if i have to go directly with the M1 0W40. What would you do in my place?
With regards
Jack

https://www.bobscycle.com/spectro-offroad-4-oil-20w50-petroleum.html

George (Uptite) recommends.

I am still using the Mobil1 0-40. I would not worry too much on one or the other. You'll be changing it in 300+ miles. Paper or steel. Another debated personal choice. Just make sure to not put the filter in backwards . The Mobil was always a good value if passing by a Wal-Mart. The 5 qt jugs around $25.

Thank you very much for your replies.
I've noticed that also motul 300V 5W40 is Tinken approved so now i've three choices: mobil1 OW40, P1 racing 5W40 and motul 300V 5W40. I live in italy so no walmart and buiyng oil on internet you have to be very careful because there is a lot o fake oil (expecially motul and castrol) or the oil that they ship to you is original but was produced in 2013 (as has already appened to me). Probabily my local hardware walmart like shop has M1 0W40 on its shelves and if i remember correctly i will buy M1 for my peace of mind (certainly original and at good price). If I'm wrong, i've already spotted a place to buy 300V original and at resonable price.
For oil filters i will certainly go by the first very start of the engine with ss filters, also for that i found a e-shop selling PC racing hf116 filters so i'll go with that

I think those are the filters I am running. I had heard from someone, maybe Tinken, that the rubber grommet was thicker on one side of the PC Racing, and for reasons of flow, it was wise to flip over the grommet giving more space behind the filter. Who knows. I did the above just because Tinken said so and each filter was a mm off one way or the other.

So finally yesterday I went to my local autoparts store ad bought a jug of M1 FS 0W40 (1 liter) and I paid 15,38 for it. So I have another doubt: thought M1 0W40 is a really good oil and I think, as I wrote here, it will work great in my 310 the difference of price here between M1 0W40 and Motul 300V 5W40 is of 1,22 dollars (I've converted euro in dollar for you ),since 1,22 dollars of difference won't make me poor I don't know which one to choose of the two. I've also found another oil, NILS for race 5W40, that has an interesting technical sheet too (75 cst 40 °C and 13,2 cst 100 ° C) that cost one dollar more than 300V. I' m aware that this kind of choice is personal and everyone should put in what makes them happy but in this case I need to know from those who know a little more than me if its better to go directly with a jaso MA oil or stay on the M1 (which as i have read here gives no clutch issues)

On my engine rebuild I don't believe Ty found any oil related issues and top end was in good shape, valves, cams, gearbox, clutch. Got a piston kit in the parts. Seeing my throttle body contamination from a few dirty stream crossings it makes sense. So don't stress it. Like skin lotion, chose your preferred scent.

From a thread after I got my bike back from ZipTy after engine rebuild...

"Happy to get the 310 back. Engine completely rebuilt. New piston kit (only engine parts needed besides a plug), head and valve job (assuming valves and all were serviceable), Crank rebuild and mod. Coolant Temp Sensor/Fan Switch replace did the trick, so all issues addressed. Had forks serviced since the bike was in the shop. Now for some break in miles tomorrow."

Thank you John

oil thread. those little engines are best run with very light oil as mentioned above.

also mentioned above about those metal mesh filters...way back when, I was in contact with PC Racing because the original dimension filter they called out for the X-Lite engine fit and cover closed but...it was pushed back up against the engine block bottoming the back up spring and basically was acting as a clogged filter, oil pressure would then unseat the bypass valve and flow through with no filter action. I also discussed this with Tinken but he told me by his calc the filters were just built up with taller grommets which pushed the filter further into the backing spring. My caliper showed a slightly bigger filter body and PC did acknowledge it with me.
Remember that backing spring creates the space for the oil to flow around the filter and through the element. Without that gap between the filter (if the spring is fully compressed between the block and the filter) oil will barely get around the filter and will blow though the central bypass check valve directly through the middle of the filter. This is an old discussion but important for you guys running these X-Lite machines with aftermarket metal screen filters....OEM filters no worries. As I stated years back as an A&P and jack of all trade Mil aircraft guy we use and like Mil-Spec metal mesh type bullet proof filters. PS the Scotts brand always fit perfectly like OEM dimension. I had both.

Thanks a lot to you too robertaccio

I had a HiFlo on the shelf so thought I'd measure... Hi Flo and PC with grommet reversed:

Interesting johnrg, so with the PC racing with flipped grommet there will be more room for oil to come around the filter.
This cheers me up because I bought 2 PC racing filters from zipty and I should be fine

I have 2 PC filters in rotation. No worries.

Another little question. I saw that Mobi1 changed, in 2014-2015 or so, the formula of the Mobil1 0W40 along with the name from "new life" to "FS". From the two formulas the big difference is a lower viscosity at 40 C (from 75 to 70.8, which is also better for startups), a lower viscosity at 100 C (from 13,5 to 12,9) and also a lower HTHS viscosity at 150 C (from 3,8 to 3,6). Is still good to use in the 310? Are you already using it?
Thanks
Giack

I've used it the only issue with some oils is the additive which will smoke your clutch. This should not have it. To make sure check the circle sae on the back of the bottle, there shouldn't be anything in there

I don't see new life or FS on my jugs of M1. One of these has to be from later than '15.... Maybe make sure you are using the European Car Formula. They may have some other specialty oil. Wal-Mart shows a "Fuel Economy Version" as well, which may be what you are seeing. I would just stick with the tried and tested version. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-...edirectid=15753110141709796974410090302008005.

I've just searched in Mobil1 US website: also there the european car formula is called FS:
https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-fs
In europe the bottle is brown but is the same oil with the same tecnical data:
https://www.mobil1.co.uk/synthetic-engine-oils/fs-0w-40.aspx (same bottle that i bought)
In alternative there is shell helix 0W40 that has the same technical data as the old M1. Now i don't know if i have to go with new M1 bottle that i have or if it is better to buy shell 0W40.
Thanks for your replies
Giack

I would use whatever is easy for you to get and close to the criteria you are measuring them by. Mobil or Shell are fine. Both were relatively cheap at Wal-Mart in jugs. Not sure if folks were using Shell Rotella. Wal-Mart sells it cheap.... https://www.walmart.com/ip/Shell-Rotella-T6-5W-40-Full-Synthetic-Heavy-Duty-Diesel-Engine-Oil-1-gal/102646780?wmlspartner=wmtlabs&adid=22222222222055632279&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=e&wl1=o&wl2=c&wl3=10370638774&wl4=pla-1105710613380&wl12=102646780_0&wl14=Shell Rotella 5x-40&veh=sem&msclkid=361f0ba2a51e1775821656477980b105

I think I remember Michael/Tinken in an earlier oil thread regarding the Rotella specs and it was OK as well. Seems both Shell and M1 same price at Wal-Mart and a few dollars less than a couple of years ago.

Thank you John!
Today I was considering about Mobil1 0W40 vs Shell 0W40 and 5W40 and I made a reflection and a purchase: the bigger difference between M1 new formulation, old formulation and helix 5W40 is the viscosity at 100C wich is 13,5 (M1 old and Helix 0W40) vs 12,9 (new M1) Vs 13,1 (Helix 5W40). Difference is of 4,4% (0,6 cst) between M1 old and new and 1,51% between M1 new and helix 5W40. New M1 has same viscosity at 150C of helix 0W40 and 5W40 and 0,2 less than M1 old formula. So M1 new formula will perform like Helix at warm hot engine while being slightly thinner at 40 and 100C. I also thought that mobil1 kept unchanged their additive packages who made this oil so good for xlites and kymco 449-511 engines and so i decided to go without worries with M1.
Today there was a sale on M1 at the local store and I bought 5 liters of M1 so I am ready for the break in

Ive hade 3 310s. 2011 and two 2014, +500 hours all together. I have used Midland Motorcycle SAE 10W-50 on them all. No bad habits, clutch working perfect original and as flawless with Rekluse. I use Midland in the suspension also, 5W fork oil. The second 310 I had (2014 TE) was sold to a friend. He changed the motor oil to another premium brand. He called me and told me he had problems with getting it work properly on high gears at slow speed. Issue solved after changing back to Midland. I dont say that is is better than other premium brands but it has worked very good for me.
Ola