TE 310 suggested oil

Hey just got a 2014 TE310R.....,what oil are you guys running and anyone using this SS oil filter I was reading about? Thanks

I run Spectro OFF ROAD Semi-Synthetic 20-50. I'm getting some Maxilube from Zip-Ty and going to add some in my next oil change.. Mine's a '12. Don't use the stainless filter but I think Ty Davis used one in the Vegas to Reno race a few weeks back. They seem to like the one they use and sell.

Many have succumbed to the words of the God Tinken (who works with Ty Davis) and use; Mobil1 (from Wal-Mart at $23 for 5 QTs) and the PC Racing SS Filter (available from ZT I think or here... http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/PC-Racing-FLO-Drop-In-Stainless-Steel-Oil-Filter-P-p/4057725.htm). The idea is to maximize oil flow. Change the oil at 300 miles or so depending on use. The PC filter has a rubber grommet that needs to be flipped to insure it is spaced properly in the filter cavity as it's thick on one side and thinner on the other. Also consider Zip Ty's Oil Drain Back Kit http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/zipty-2nd-gen-310-drain-back-kit.43598/#post-422086) (which routes that oil hose from the rear of the sump to the oil filler cap up top, making losing oil at the low point of the sump a non issue, in case you don't get the hose clamp secure, etc... Other threads here detail that "kit".

A lot of info here on this stuff. Search for 310 oil and it will gush forth. Read here for more on filters... http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/te310r-2013-oil-filter.36702/.

I use a K&P Engineering stainless oil filter and Amsoil Formula 4-Stroke 0W40 in mine. I've got some Maxilube on order from ZipTy.

Ok thanks man

I use Castrol Power 1 Racing 10w50 (sometimes I've used Castrol Power 1 GPS 10w40) + Hiflofiltro HF116. TE 310 2012. ( +- 500 miles/800 Kms interval). Amateur riding.

We were the factory race team for Husqvarna with these engine models and continue to be part of Husky's R&D division today. We have raced and rebuilt hundreds of these engines. The downside to these engines is oil flow through the crankshaft, rod bearing, wrist pin and cylinder. The heads are over saturated with oil. On top of that, they are extremely hot running little power-plants. Think of the oil as a coolant. We get considerably higher durability out of these by using 0W40/5W40 fully synthetic oils and high flowing stainless steel filters. Even at 150°C or normal operating temperatures, 0W40 tends to out flow most 10W50/20W50s close to 2:1.

We do sell both PC racing and K&P stainless steel oil filters. These filters have a 4 micron paper equivalence, yet have the ability to flow 7 times more oil hot or cold. This is very important on start up with the 310 due to it's bypass valve which could allow debris straight past the filter. We actually offer quite a few engine mods capable of bullet proofing your investment.

So can I get away with this oil and continue using a paper K&N filter? I've been using BelRay thumper 15w-50...thanks

I don't think there has been anyone with collapsing filters as in some other models, so they will work fine. Some prefer paper and some ss. Myself, at the low cost for the pc, I just got two, so always have a fresh one to install. Studies and individuals quote a lot of varied data so, I read as much as I can and make my own decision. Tinken's advice has been right on for me so far... So I do defer to his advice, though I'm not an easy sell

And the 10-40 synthetic thumper oil is ok or should I go up to a 15-50 when I need to buy more?

15-50 sounds like a nightmare for a 310.

The 10w-50 that was OK was Castrol's since the ratings were different (close to a 40W) than most and fit Husky's criteria. But now everyone leans towards the 0W-40 or the 5W-40 (Rotella) but if you read the threads, it's about flow at startup, so if you want to go thicker you are going counter just about every thread in this forum and engine mileage may vary I have a gallon jug of AMSOil 20W-50 that is still in my garage unused after 30+ years (for my old Honda/Yoshima Z1 killer). Older air cooled motor maybe. Then again I am simply following advice of engine builders for each engine I run, since they see what they look like on teardown.

An older thread that has a lot of discussion of different oil specs. and more...

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/te-250-2011-oil-choice.31169/

so stick with what I'm using? So many different opinions you know! Thanks

0W40

Save the 20W50 for the big block turbo diesels and farm tractors.

Also, one other quick note. When switching to 0W40 and SS filter from 50W oil, there is a slight hp increase (as much as 2hp has been recorded on the bigger bikes). This may make the engine idle slightly higher at start up, so idle adjustment will be advised.

I've been reading all the threads, and guru Tinken has convinced me, and I also imagine that a SS filter with a good oil has to help the weak e-starting system when the engine is hot. I want to try a SS filter for my next oil change.
Just a few questions:
Mobil 1 0w40 is the same that Castrol Edge Titanium FST 0w40 or Castrol Edge Titanium FST 0w40 A3/B4 ?
Is there much difference using SS Oil filter with a Castrol 10w50 or 5w40 than a 0w40?
Any SS filter is ok or has to be PC or KP?

You need to read the spec sheets for each oil and compare. They do differ and many threads here have spelled out the details 100%.

Filters don't have opinions so work with each oil they come across equally well (IMO)

Most any filter will work, but those two mentioned are what is a known fit, and encompasses the full range for price/perceived quality. To me, it appears K&P may make the Scotts. Same price and part#. PC is well made, lower cost and fits. There are Moose brand and others some have measured too and been good. If you don't want to think about them, buy one of the two and same with Mobil1. Takes anxiety out of the equation. If cost or availability is an issue, compare specs and then debate any differences.

Thanks for the answer.
I guess I can easily find Mobil 1 0w40 here ..

General specifications which we have tested:
75 cSt@40°C
13.1 cSt@100°C
>2.9cSt@150°C

You don't have to match these specifications exactly, but the closer you come to them, the better. The lower your viscosity at 40°C while still maintaining around 13cSt@100°C, the better. It's a lot harder to pump 150cSt oil at start-up than to pump 75. 3cSt@150°C is the viscosity we try to shoot for at normal operating temperatures. That's a 2:1 flow characteristic versus the 6cSt@150°C you will find with 20W50.


(Not picking on Amsoil. Amsoil is almost always in spec to classification of bottle numbering.)