TE 310 2014 stalling issues

Hey guys, recently I bought a TE 310 with 3000 miles and it runs great but when I give it gas and release it quickly, it stalls if it's in neutral. This happens also when I pull in the clutch to downshift, or when I'm doing slow manouvers, like turning. It also backfires a lot when going downhill and decelerating. I took the bike to an ex dealer (he doesn't have acces to the husqvarna diagnostics tool) and he changed the TPS and it seemed this solved the issue, no stalling, no backfiring. But after ~2 hours of riding (25 miles) it was the same as before. I noticed during the ride it was backfiring more and more. I later called the mechanic and he said it's probably because he only changed the TPS, he didn't calibrate it. Could this be the issue? It's strange because it was working fine at the beginning. Also I noticed when the engine is cold it doesn't stall. Can I somehow reset the TPS? I found a thread but it is for 449/511. Please help!

hmmm.

first make sure your idle is 2000rpms (spec is 1950, but a tad higher is better imho). 40+ clicks out on the idle adjuster.

the backfiring with the throttle closed is a lean issue, but that also could be normal- set that issue aside for the moment. Can you post a vid of the issues you're talking about maybe?

good luck.

I made a video before I took it to the mechanic, here's the link:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIlTeFIFS7E

At that time I didn't know that, but now if I don't want it to stall I stop really slowly almost to the point it stalls because of going to slow and I don't give it gas. I can make a new video if it helps, when cold and up to temp, so you can see the difference.

Hi Domen

the vid helps a bit- except a viewer never really hears the bike idling... but only just when the bike is recovering from a stall or about to stall. It does seem to run good on top though.

And it does sound like a fueling issue. let's try these quick things first:

• Insure that the cold start is pushed in after you start it.
• Adjust the idle screw (it's the same "button" as the cold start) to at least 40 clicks out. These bikes idle high.
• Tighten the manifold & clamp. (and air boot clamp- but that ain't it)
• Insure the manifold vacuum port is plugged (right side)
• make sure that the cold start, injector/fuel rail, and MAP sensor are seated. this one is a shot in the dark.

I don't really think any of these are gonna solve your problem, but it gives us a good foundation to start with. BTW, get and keep your original TPS. It's worth some money and I doubt it was bad. (and your brake cable and speedo cable seem a little high maybe? i don't think it's a problem but it is unusual)

okay, now i've got a few question (but not about your bike)- that area that you're riding in is totally cool. I like that stone house/out-building, with the slate roof, in the hay field- WTH is that? That road that is paved with cobble stones is pretty cool too. What is that tower in the field- a hunting platform or what?

That whole area is beautiful- I'm gonna guess Ljubljana maybe?

your english is fantastic. frikken kids growing up with FB, twitter, snap chat, yt et al, write it better than most 'merican's.

later,
scott

Thanks
I tried playing with the idle screw but it made me only more confused, I found the best RPM, where it ran smoothly, but when it was up to temp it was stalling by its own. Then I fully opened it and the bike only stalled when I released the throttle, but on idle it ran erratically, I couldn't find the sweet spot. I'll try all your recomendations and also setting the idle again on the weekend because I'm actually in Ljubljana right now because of college :/.

The area actually is in Slovenia, but it's (by our standards) pretty far from Ljubljana, it's near Koper (1 hour drive from LJ). The climate is very different and it is much nicer than Lubljana, we from the coast all hate it up here because of fog .
The little house was used by farmers ~100 or more years ago to store tools in it and maybe to get some rest and there are a few others here and there but this one is preserved the most I think. And yes that is a deer stand for hunters and it's a bit of a problem because in the afternoon they come to hunt and are angry if we ride around scaring the animals. It's actually illegal to drive/ride in the nature here, even on the paved roads, but as long as you are respectful and not riding on fields it should be fine. The police doesn't have any vehicles to chase us so we are good , and the main thing is not to anger the farmers and people who live there.

Anyway when I come home on the weekend I'll make another video after trying all the things you said so we get to the bottom of this!

well, the italians screwed up (hah) the idle screw description in the manual. Turn it CW to decrease idle, CCW to increase. And turn it all the way in (clockwise) until in lightly sets; then turn it ~40 clicks out (CCW) to put you in the ballpark for idle initially. This is, of course, with it's cold start function pushed in (off).

Erratic idle: are you sure the cold start was pushed in (off)? You do understand the button has two functions, right?? Using cold start for more than 5 seconds causes the idle to "hunt" wildly. Adjust the idle when the bike is warmed-up.

since you're 2 minutes from italy, you probably can get those Airoh helmets cheap. They're about 250-400euros here- aahgrrrrrrr.

I finally managed to make a video this week. I tried adjusting the screw and it didn't solve anything. It runs best at around 43 clicks CCW, but as I said when it reaches operating temperature it dies if I touch the throttle. I also noticed that sometimes it will die when I give it throttle (last 5 secconds of the video). I also checked the other suggestions from the post above and nothing changed, although I'm not really sure about the last point about the MAP sensor and injector. How do I check that, where is the sensor?

In the video: at the beginning the bike is cold for the first minute, then I rode it for like 500 meters and filmed it again so not up to temp yet, and after the third minute I think it was warm enough, was riding it on the road a bit. I also play a bit with the screw but it's always around 40 turns I think, only at the end I turned it all the way CCW just to see, but the same happens. Also you can see in the video that sometimes my starter doesn't get disconnected and I have to kick the kickstarter really hard for it to disconnect. Also when it dies (not by killswitch) it rarely starts with the e-starter, and I have to wait a minute and then it starts on the first kick. Do any other huskyes have these issues?
Is there anything else I could try or is a diagnostics tool needed?

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17o6OtSrG-M

It almost sounds like your sprag clutch's pawls are not retracting sometimes. A bad garter spring?

...or an impeller nut hitting the blades?

...or something loose in the bottom of the clutch or tranny??

....autodecompressor??

anybody???

If you're talking about the metallic sound, it might be the license plate, it vibrates a lot. But if it really is the clutch could this be the cause of the stalling?

stalling: it could I suppose. but you should be able to isolate the source of the noise since you're *right* there.

over my phone's mini-speaker it sounded "bad". Of course, I am pretty deaf too.

Just a thought. With my 2013 TE310r having starting issues, I was letting idle if we stopped for a quick break to figure out directions or whatnot, while on the last ride. My clutch had was getting a little tired so I tried to adjust the clutch lever to be closer to the bar. While turning out the dial the bike stalled. I think there is some kind of a sensor in there that might act like a kill switch. Anyone have a comment on that?

probably coincidental. one of the biggest advantages of a hydraulic actuated clutch is that it sorta "adjusts" itself during clutch wear. your adjustment is more for lever contact point.

...unless you were idling with the clutch in, in gear- then, yep, you stalled the bike. but there is no sensor 'cept maybe for the starter safety switch.

Im almost sure the fuel pump is problem i install this one and over 300h no problem
http://www.motonet.si/e-trgovina/mo...a-za-gorivo-d5638e6a2f5137633be9e72798e9a559m

I checked and the noise is coming from the license plate. I also tried adjusting the clutch and it didn't help. The previuos owner talked about a washer in the clutch and that you can put different washers in and it affects where the clutch grips. He put a different one in so maybe thats the problem?


The bike runs great whenever it's not neutral, wouldn't a faulty pump also cause lack of power on higher RPM?

I struggle with same problem, except it also keeps stalling when riding gets tight like first gear bouncing rocks etc.

So far done, valve check ok, fuelpump+filter, temperature sensor (back of the cylinder), intake air temparature sensor. No help.
So now i changed new sparkplugcap/ignition coil, injector and fresh Yuasa-battery.

After these lates parts idling sound better, will be tested tomorrow if these helped when engine gets hot.

I am just confused with the Ecu flashing because my dealer said on the phone that it cant be flashed.
And this dealer was Juha Salminen mechanic when Juha raced with these bikes.

Sorry about my bad english but hope you get the point.

Edit. Didn't get any wiser today. Started the bike for warming up and it instantly started leaking fuel. So when i changed injector the o-ring in throttlebody was poorly in place and now it haves nice little cut.

I called the new Husqvarna/KTM dealership and they said they do have the software to flash the ECU, whereas the old Hsq dealer that now has SWM can't do it, so you should find a dealership with new Husqvarnas
I hope you get it fixed, if you do please let me know.


I just realized that whenever my bike stalls it kinda sounds like the e-starter turns, it's similar to the sound it makes when you press the starter button for a split second. You can hear it in the video at around 3:52 and when it happens on 3:26 the starter remains connected until I kickstart it. Can someone confirm if this is normal? I tought that maybe it stalls because the starter gets attached to the shaft? Probably not though.

Finally got chance to test the bike (have to change spiketires, yes, i live in finland)
Bike rans perfect, starts hot with slight touch of the button. So happy now and todays riding was rocks, roots, ice, slow and fast.
Bike ate everything i was throwing it at, no stalls in whole day (rekluse also helps)

Temperature sensor helped little and now injector+sparkplugcap did the rest. Not sure which one was bad or little both.
Those are rather cheaps parts and now bike works.

Domen (the OP)-

where are you at as far as the bike is concerned?

The noise in your vid at those times is the sprag releasing (I believe) and is pretty normal.

Try to get your original TPS back from the mechanic. you can't buy them from husky and substitutes that sorta work can be more than $100USD.

good luck.

That's great to hear man! Can I ask you where you bought the injector and spark plug cap? Are they universal, at least the cap? I found the injector online and it's ~80€, can I find it somewhere for less money? Anyway I'll probably give a try to the cap first as it is less expensive.

TC85:
The next time after the vid was filmed I tried to start the bike and the starter wasn't turning the engine as it should, only like a rotation when it should do 5. So then I tried with the kickstarter and some weird noises were coming out when the engine turned, like grinding gears and it doesn't start, so I didn't touch it since then. I have a lot to study now so don't have time for it, but I will take it to the mechanic to replace the starter. It lasted 2 hours :/ so I'll try to get a discount or something. Also he gave me the TPS already when I picked the bike from him. I'm suspecting he put in an old freewheel he showed me when he was explaining why the starter wasn't working (I bought the bike without it). It was done in 5 days IIRC and he said he needed to order the part so I'm a bit suspicious.

http://shop.italhusky.com/en/products i have been ordered now three times from there. Original parts with reasonable price.
Cap is Denso, maybe crossreference would help out. Note that new injector comes without o-ring so you need get it separately
from somewhere else.