TE 310 2011 ignition issue

Dear Colleagues,

I have been struggling with an ignition system problem on a 2011 TE310 for quite some time.

It started from the fact that after firing up for about a minute I could not add gas because the motorcycle wanted to go out. The first time I started it was difficult, but when I added the gas hard enough I was able to start and during the ride I did not notice the problem anymore.

With time, it came to the point that I had to turn it from idle to over 3000 rpm very quickly because otherwise the motorcycle would go out, it was very annoying. In anger, I started to adjust the throttle without connecting iBeat and that was the first mistake I made because I do not know the factory throttle settings on my bike.

Now I have iBeat and I know how to use it. Before the winter season I spent two weeks after work in the garage to find a setting that would eliminate the problem. I nearly went crazy and wanted to throw it in the bushes several times.

I finally found a certain setting:

TPS - 100.4 (I know these are the values pre-xlite engines used)

CO1- 110; CO2-106; C03-104

Importantly, the motorcycle was set up with a silencer.

On these settings I fell in love with the bike all over again, as if I got on new equipment. Zero lag from below, the bike just ripped on the wheel with a slight twist of the throttle. When I went for a longer ride, after about an hour the problem returned. I spread my arms, removed the throttle and gave the injection for cleaning. To my surprise, after reassembling, the bike started to run great again, I did two shorter trips and the problem returned, I was very pleased. However, it started to get very cold and I stopped riding

I decided to have the motorcycle serviced by my mechanic since I bought it second hand of course. When the mechanic came to pick up the bike, something prompted me to remove the silencer and the problem returned. The bike again had a problem in the low rpm range.

By the way, at the mechanic's it turned out that the engine is in great shape. iBeat gives me 107 hours. I replaced connecting rod, oil pump, timing chain as a preventive measure. The only things that needed replacing were two sprocket bearings and a rocker arm in the gearbox. The rest is really great.

Interestingly, just as I said that before returning the bike to the mechanic it did not want to run properly, after putting it together it fired up the first time on the same settings and there was no problem at the bottom of the throttle. At times like this it goes crazy and I don't know what to do next. Due to the fact that I was afraid that the settings I wrote you about above in my opinion increase the power of the bike which may lead to its faster wear I decided to go back to the settings that everyone claims are the factory ones, that is WOT% 102.3 and 100 100 100.

To my surprise, the bike started to work fine with these settings but now I have a big problem with firing it up. When the bike was at the mechanic's where the garage was warm, it was able to start but not like before. However, when I put it in my garage where it is now about 1-2 degrees celcius it is very difficult to start it and in addition when I hold the throttle for a moment at about 2800-3000 the motorcycle goes out again.

I read that the maps in these motorcycles have a fault in this range of revs. I do not know if I understand correctly, but from the JD diagrams, it seems as if the motorcycle at this point has a very rich mixture and the motorcycle simply floods.

What worries me the most is that previously the motorcycle started very well, at most in 2-3 kicks when cold and when warmed up in 1.


I realize that I wrote a very long post, but maybe someone will associate something I wrote about and will be able to advise me what else to change or check. Does temperature have such a big influence on this bike ? It often happened that after removing the tank and spurk pług, bike alive but for a while. Maybe its some issue with fuel pump ? I really don't know what to think anymore

Have you checked for a sheared woodruff key on the flywheel? It will throw out the timing and make it run poorly or hard to start.

After assembling the engine it fired up nicely and ran fine, now when it fires up it doesn't run too bad either, you can crank it up to higher revs. Mechanic drove it from his place to my house and said it runs fine. Thanks for the suggestion, I will keep it in mind, but it involves reopening the engine...

One more thought occurs to me:

I know that fuel pumps break down in this model. The previous owner replaced it because it died completely. What are the cases of damage of these pumps ? Mine is definitely running because you can hear it but maybe it is not generating enough pressure? I have also read that the filter in the tank gets clogged ? I took it apart earlier and found nothing there...

or maybe someone of you had to replace the fuel injection because it simply wore out ?

Anyone has experience with this ?

I would check the fuel pressure using an in-line tester. You should see around 45-50psi when the fuel pump is running.

Wait for better weather and i will testing. I plan to play with iBeat, i see that people report different WOT. I have to check fuel pressure to, that will be next step. Im curious what bike work with silencer.

Today I hooked up the pressure gauge directly to the tank. Actuating the pump with the button (without starting engine) produced a pressure of 30 psi, of course the pressure started to drop after a short while. I performed the measurement several times.

Question is this value correct for not remote engine ? Unfortunately it was too late to start it, besides I would have to connect it differently.

30psi is a bit low. I would replace the fuel pump.

Then fit a "T" connector to your fuel gauge tester so you can check the fuel pressure with the engine running.

The previous owner changed the fuel pump, but I'm sure it was a cheap replacement, so maybe it was worn out.

Interestingly, today I've started the bike but with Dbkiller installed. I had to keep hot start for quite a long time, but it is 2 degrees Celsius in my garage. But once it started it ran nicely without clipping. ehh... this must be some kind of stupidity. Next step will be to check the pressure while the engine is running. If pressure is too low i will change pump.

Do you possibly know what pressure regulator looks like on these bikes ? Maybe it is the problem

The pressure regulator is part of the fuel pump assembly and not adjustable. I have never heard of them failing.

A common problem when replacing the fuel pump electric motor is pinched o'rings. There is an o'ring on the top and bottom of the pump that need to seal correctly to supply the correct fuel pressure. Leaking o'rings will give you low and erratic fuel pressure.

I use a little silicone o'ring grease when reassembling.

The fuel pump has been replaced. Now the pressure is 50 psi, the motorcycle runs properly with a small exception.

To start it on a cold engine with the dbkiller installed I have to open the throttle a bit, otherwise there is no way it will start, I can kick it around for hours. As it warms up it fires up quite well.

Once you manage to fire it up on a cold engine you have to keep the revs up a bit either by opening the throttle or red lever. After a while you can let go and the bike will work normally.

Often, when it starts without adding gas, it fires at a very low rpm and you have to literally touch the throttle or the red lever to jump into normal low rpm and stay there.

CO 100 100 100, I tried WOT 102.3; 101.7; 101.5. There was no difference

I keep getting the feeling that the outside temperature is to blame. It is currently around 35.6 F in my garage. I have noticed that when the motorcycle warms up, the computer reads the throttle air temp at around 80.6 F and yet the intake temp will be around 35.6 F, it won't have time to warm up that fast.

Any suggestions? I'm running out of steam.

I would check/reset the Throttle Position Sensor calibration. Don't touch the sensor itself.

Either use iBeat to reset it or the procedure below:

TPS Quick Reset
- Fully Warm Motorcycle
- Disconnect the battery for approx 2 minute, then hook it back up again.
- Turn the ignition key on.
- Turn the throttle to full stop and then back again.
- Turn the ignition key off, wait 5 seconds, and then turn it back on again.
- Start the bike without touching the throttle.

I have had this problem where the TPS sensor is reading a little low and not giving the engine enough fuel for the idle air flow.

iBeat will also allow you to read the temperature sensor value to see if it is correct.

I reset the TPS with iBeat each time I adjust the hard stop.

I was not familiar with the procedure you wrote about. I can only see one problem. I don't have an ignition switch.... I already bought one. I only start the fuel pump.

I reset TPS always on warm engine, I also noticed that after cooling down the zero indication always changes but after warming up it is correct.

apart from that throttle opening readings in iBeat look correct. 962 mV at WOT 102.3 %. In the end I left 981 mV or 101.7 %.

but as you say, I have the impression that at first it does not give fuel but it is not the fault of the pump but one of the readings from the computer. It is falsified either by TPS or by temperature. I was also thinking of replacing the water temperature sensor because I read that it can also cause problems, but the readings in iBeat seem to be correct.

Have you checked the rubber intake manifold between the throttle body and engine for cracks or delamination (engine side)?
My Te310 went through 3 of them. They cause an air leak which results in poor starting, backfiring and lean running.

I checked, there are no cracks but...

I've been struggling with this for a long time because I thought it might be the problem. the face of the on intake rubber does not adhere to the face of the head.



When i did manage to get it to fit it was still slipping after a while. I stopped fighting with it because I found some pictures from the day I bought it and I think it didn't fit like that then either.

I just checked the photo. Your engine is an X-Lite with a different setup. Mine was the redhead engine (earlier model) with a flat engine mounting surface so a different setup.

Maybe change the temperature sensor if if was giving you incorrect readings.

I'm not sure about these sensors.

There are two temperature sensors. One from the water is in the cylinder and the other is fused to the vacuum sensor directly in front of the throttle.

In my opinion it is oddly solved because when the motorcycle heats up it gives off heat and heats the air that sits in the throttle. Then it shows the temperature much higher than is actually in the environment and the air does not get warm so quickly. I would understand if this temperature sensor was in the airbox and not in the throttle, which is directly above the engine.

So what are the latest issues?
- needs throttle to start?
- flames out at 2500-3000 rpm?

You don't mention valve clearances. Are they in spec?

Now the problem is need throttle to start.

My mechanic check clerance. Outtake 0.2, intake 0.11, 0.12. Its in spec. Besides, I pressed thicker tiles in intake but mechanic said what i wrote before.

Ok, so the valves are good.

If it needs throttle to start then it's not getting enough fuel for the metered air. I'm thinking an air leak or a TPS/MAP/temp sensor issue.

Here's a screenshot from iBeat of my TE310 (red head engine) idling. I also have an x-Lite TE250 which I can connect to for a comparison.

Can you share a screenshot of iBeat with your engine running at idle? It would be good to compare your readings at idle for the following:
- Spark Advance
- Ignition Pulse width
- Water temp
- Manifold air temp
- Manifold pressure
- Air pressure

This might help us pinpoint the problem area.