TE 310 2011 Flywheel/Rotor Nut Torque

My newish to me Husky went belly up as the flywheel lossened itself when I was trying to get up a ledge at a standstill. It trashed the woodruff key and hence threw the timing out and would not start. Now being reassembled question is how confident are we the owners manual torque setting of 75 nm is adequate, some on here have gone to 100 Nm, or do we go in between ?

Cheers

You have to clean up the crank end and flywheel. Remove all burrs and lightly lap with valve lapping compound.
If there are burrs you will never be able to make it tight enough.

Clean off good and put a light coating of Loctite 609 or 680 and tighten to about 80NM or so.

Use a new woodruff key and let it sit overnight before adding oil.

I do nothing but torque it to 100nm, works fine.

Thank you for the replies and advice, appreciated.

I used the same method as R_little used after shearing 3 woodruff keys, havent had an issue since.

Buchshot, Did the 3 trashed woodruff keys do for the odd flywheel or two ? Thanks

The important thing is to make sure there are no big burrs on the flywheel or the crank end.

Pick all the old sheared key out with a dental pick.

Big burrs will cock the flywheel and it won't stay in place.

Well bike was repaired and flywheel reassembled, 40 miles later wents T.ts up again? Now need engineer with skill to seat it properly on the taper. This is a fair old achilles heel on this model of bike surprised it passed QA ?

Husky has been repaired again, flywheel has been tweaked on a laith and we have had to make a flywheel holding tool. Flywheel now lapped in and fully bedded home and then torqued up correctly using the holding tool. Also found loose connection on CDi, bike nows runs best it has and will have Tubliss and new Maxxis tyres this week. Are these bikes keepers or once sorted move on and and replace with one of those orange things ?

You should be good now.

So how many woodruff keys did you end up using?

Zip Ty sells a neat holding tool.

The whole Flywheel/ E-start system is marginal.

Don't cut corners and do it right.

In my ownership, two wood ruff keys were eaten in 3 rides !! Thanks TC and RL for the comments.

Let me opine on the keeper issue.

In my view, once assembled and set up correctly they are awesome bikes.

I have one of the 1st 2010 TE250s in the states and I had tons of issues with it when new.

I reassembled the top end and E-start and I've been riding in aggressively for 7 years.

Oil changes and a fuel filter swap plus one or two shims in the valves and it runs perfect.

I will say that I kick start it mostly as the E-start is not very robust. I use E-start to relight on stalls only.