TC449 2011 Starter Motor & One-Way Clutch Issues

(excuse the terminology here, i'm no mechanic)

Hi, this post relates to starter motor or one way clutch issues on a 2011 TC449. Main problem started after a ride where the starter motor would simply make a whirring sound, i.e the starter motor pinion gear seemed to be free-wheeling (or so I thought). I assumed it was a Solenoid problem, for example the pinion gear not being pushed from the starter motor to engage the Starter Gear. But after taking apart the starter motor it seems it lacks a solenoid function, i.e the pinion just rotates and doesn't move in & out laterally - which I thought it would.

NOTE: the starter motor is hard to get out, so you have to remove the bash plate then the water pump assembly incl. hoses. From there, lift the starter motor so that the rear of the starter motor is as near vertical as you can get, and then with a slight bump downward the pinion gear should slip out of the housing.

After this, I concluded that the starter motor was working fine - its actually a bit of a pain to get back together - make sure the brushes are pushed back into their housings and the springs are working effectively. After re-assembling I tested the starter motor was working with another battery.

My question is, now that everything is back together, I am still getting the whirring sound, so my next assumption is that the problem lies with the one way clutch ? http://husqvarnamotorcycleparts.com...a-husaberg/2011/tc-449-450/starter-gears#next

Does anyone have any advice for me as to what the problem could be?

Thank you!

Chris.

It sounds like the one way (sprag) clutch. It's a common problem on all bikes.

You will need to remove the flywheel on the left hand side of the engine to repair it. It is normally a stretched garter spring rather than a worn out clutch.

Cheers mate!

I am going to remove the crankcase cover today and see if there is a problem with Starter Motor Idle Gear or Freewheel gear. If not, i'll look further into it. Looks like you need a special took to heat the Flywheel according to the manual, which I don't have - but I suppose can
order if need be.

Thanks for your reply.


Chris.

UPDATE:

So, this is not what I wanted to see. Looks like the Alternator has exploded . Great.....


Cleaned it all up but looks like one of the screws that connect the Free Wheel to the Flywheel has come loose or something like that and caused massive damage. Ill need to replace the Flywheel and God knows what else.

Hi mate,

Yes, not very happy. Ridden twice since I brought it, for about 20 mins a pop - decided to get back into riding after a 15 year gap. I knew second-hand 4 strokes were problems but I thought I'd get more than 40 minutes out of it !


Anyway thanks for your replies. I can order the Stator for around $900 AUD, which is near one-third of what I brought the bike for......


Hey, I know this is a dumb question, but will the spark-plug still fire without a stator? I.e run straight from the battery?


All broken copper was cleaned out with airhose, and its pretty clean now once I removed the broken Stator. Part of me wants to just put it all back together and see if it runs, I don't care if it only runs until the battery runs out, just got a new lithium,


But question is, will it run?

Thanks for your help.

Chris.

Bummer. It's a common issue with those 6 bolts coming loose. Make sure you use new bolts of the same spec, loctite and torque them to 25Nm.
Then check them every year.

Do not torque them to 25NM that is a misprint in the repair manual.

Replace them with new 10.9 minimum or better yet 12.9 hardness bolts from any decent hardware store. Size is M6 X12mm, torque them to no more than 13 to 14 NM and use a High strength (red permanent) Loctite product.

Look at any fastener torque specification chart for that size fastener (M6) and you will see what a standard torque spec should be. 25NM will stretch these fasteners beyond their yield point.

Look at the stock factory junk bolts and you will see the second smaller hole in the center of the broached Allen head socket. That's where these factory bolts fail and stretch as the end of the shank on the bolt under the head is partially hollow. Worse yet they have a dry pre-applied Loctite type product on the threads that doesn't hold up to this application.

I've seen and have photos of about 50 of these same stator bolt failures turning the stator into a copper rats nest.
This is the most common failure issue on these engines all the way back to the BMW G450X which I have and these 449/511 bikes share the same basic engine platform that is now also shared with the CCM GP450 bikes as well.

If possible, look for Allen head bolts with a reduced height head like the picture shown. Some standard Allen head bolts have a closer clearance issue when installed if using the deeper Allen head bolts as also shown. It shouldn't be a problem but to be on the safe side (Because of some engines having possible excessive crankshaft endplay) you should always check for clearance once they are re-installed.

Thanks Tim. I’ll do the same on my bike with new bolts as well.

Just replaced the flywheel bolts on my bike the other day, but ran into a snag. When putting the stator cover back on, I noticed two of the bolts are longer than the rest. Do any of you know which holes require the longer bolts?

Take a look at the attached picture included, it shows the position of the 2 longer screws (1), the position of the shorter screws (2) and (3) the sealing washers.
Be careful not to get any gasket sealer if you are re-using the old gasket or even using a new gasket on the oil feed hole marked (7) left of the cases top case screw where the cases and gasket have a pair of holes next to each other. Its what feeds oil through to the outer case down through to the cavity outside the sealed bearing under pressure. This bearing supports the crankshafts outer end and is also what pressure feeds the only source of oil through the end of the hollow crankshaft to provide the crankshaft with lubrication.

Chris, technically without the stator the bike should still run solely off the battery, but without the stator charging the battery no one knows how long you can ride the bike for. Downside with these FI bikes is that they need a charge to run, unlike older carb models that once they’re on they’ll stay on without a battery or stator. You’ll have the headlight, dash, brake light, and injector consuming most of your power, I don’t think you’d get more than an hour run time max. If you want to test it out stay close to home or have a spare battery in a backpack to swap out and bring you home.

I am the original poster - had to make a new account, seems like something went wrong with the other one.

I thought I would post an update for those interested. I decided to save the $$ on ordering a new stator and put it all back together. I had to order new flywheel bolts (the 6 that came out) online, it's amazing how hard it was to find them in stores.

I don't understand how the thread is still good, yet the bolts that came loose are completely stripped....

So I used 6 new bolts with permanent Loctite.

There was a lot of gunk in the engine oil so it took a while trying to flush it out (mashed copper) with new oil.

Cleaned up everything really well and put it all back together with fresh oil.

To my surprise it fired up and is running just as before - however is running the spark from a lithium battery, so I don't know how long I will get out of it. However, this model has no headlights or dash etc, it is running the fuel injection and spark only. It's the motocross model TC449.

If it lasts an hour at a time i'll be happy! I have a spare battery.

Thanks to everyone for their responses.

Hi Chris. There a few places that can rewind your stator such as http://www.bbbikeshop.co.uk/acatalog/Husqvarna_Alternators.html

Maybe send them some photos to see if they can rebuild it (hopefully the metalwork is not trashed, just the windings and plastic formers)