• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TC radiator hose kit on TE: delete the thermostat?

Status
Not open for further replies.
vintageveloce

vintageveloce

Husqvarna
AA Class
I notice CV4 makes a nice radiator hose kit for the 2010 TC250. I was thinking of using it on my TE250, but this will require deleting the thermostat / radiator bypass from my TE250. The TC hose kit would also eliminate a couple hoses and bunch of extra connections from my TC, and that can only help reliability.

I'm guessing the thermostat is on the TE just to help the engine heat up faster for emissions? I already removed the charcoal canister and cat long ago.

Can anyone think of a reason I shouldn't delete the thermostat / radiator bypass from my TE250 so I can use the TC250 hose kit?

Carl
PS: I do intend to keep the TE250 fan.

Pic of the nice 2 hose CV4 kit.
CV4.JPG
 
Anybody have a pic or a schematic showing the thermostat, I'd like to order one for my TE450. A thermostat will also help the temp get up to where the ECU will cut the fuel from a choke status to a run status. I had to install rad flaps on my thermostat-less bike to get my heat above 170F so I could get some decent MPG.

Where is your thermostat located, in reference to this schematic?

HuskyCooling.jpg
 
olderhuskyrider, you seem to be derailing my thread!
Here is the TE I have, note the thermostat, item # 15:
cooling-te.jpg

And here is the TC diagram, not the simpler hose setup:
cooling-tc.jpg

You can lookup the part number for the TE thermostat on your own, or you can offer to buy mine. ;-)
Now, any good reasons I shouldn't remove the thermostat?
Carl
 
Thanks for the pic, if you remove the thermostat, I'd be interested in it.

vintageveloce said:
Can anyone think of a reason I shouldn't delete the thermostat / radiator bypass from my TE250 so I can use the TC250 hose kit?

Carl
Click to expand...

vintageveloce said:
Now, any good reasons I shouldn't remove the thermostat?
Carl
Click to expand...

With no thermostat and the coolant flowing all the time, when you ride in cold weather, or go over 30 mph, the motor will struggle to maintain over 170 F, and if it doesn't maintain about 170 F, your EFI will richen the bike to the point of dramatically reduced MPG, your spark plug will run darker, the bike will run cooler, exacerbating the warm up problem.

If you only ride slow single track in 90 degree weather, or if you always hit lights when they're red, you dont need a thermostat.
 
If you have no thermostat then why keep the fan. I would have thought the signal to turn on the fan came from the thermostat. Removing the thermostat would remove the signal thus making the radiator fan useless. My question is why would you want to Chang out the hoses from stock. I agree the silicone one look great just like other silicone parts do but what are the benefits?
 
Signal comes from coolant temp sensor to the ECU. The ECU then engages the fan relay.

I'm wondering if the TE (EFI) performance will suffer or not without the thermostat as well. 2010 TC was carbed. I would love to dump the extra tubing and the clunky thermostat as well if performance didn't suffer.
 
vintageveloce said:
I notice CV4 makes a nice radiator hose kit for the 2010 TC250. I was thinking of using it on my TE250, but this will require deleting the thermostat / radiator bypass from my TE250. The TC hose kit would also eliminate a couple hoses and bunch of extra connections from my TC, and that can only help reliability.

I'm guessing the thermostat is on the TE just to help the engine heat up faster for emissions? I already removed the charcoal canister and cat long ago.

Can anyone think of a reason I shouldn't delete the thermostat / radiator bypass from my TE250 so I can use the TC250 hose kit?

Carl
PS: I do intend to keep the TE250 fan.

Pic of the nice 2 hose CV4 kit.
View attachment 13215
Click to expand...

How much does that hose set cost if you don't mind me asking? I've got some nicks on my OEM hoses that are time bombs. Might be a viable option, hmmmmm.
 
@ioneater:
To find those CV4 hoses google: SFSMBC173R They are rather expensive!
Still not sure if I'm going to delete the Thermostat or not. I really like the simpler hoses, but hadn't thought of how the EFI might fatten up the mixture when the engine is cold. I'm not convinced that is a big deal especially as I live in Southern California. ;-)
@ Tessier:
I have to drain my cooling system for some other repairs, and have heard some reliability concerns about the stock hoses.

Given the expense of the new hoses, and the indeterminate EFI result, I think I'll keep the stock hoses until someone else first reports success without a thermostat on a TE250 or TXC250. My bike is running great now with a PC5 and autotune, I wouldn't want to mess that up.

C
 
vintageveloce said:
@ioneater:
To find those CV4 hoses google: SFSMBC173R They are rather expensive!
Still not sure if I'm going to delete the Thermostat or not. I really like the simpler hoses, but hadn't thought of how the EFI might fatten up the mixture when the engine is cold. I'm not convinced that is a big deal especially as I live in Southern California. ;-)
@ Tessier:
I have to drain my cooling system for some other repairs, and have heard some reliability concerns about the stock hoses.

Given the expense of the new hoses, and the indeterminate EFI result, I think I'll keep the stock hoses until someone else first reports success without a thermostat on a TE250 or TXC250. My bike is running great now with a PC5 and autotune, I wouldn't want to mess that up.

C
Click to expand...

I have been running my 2010 TE250 without the thermostat for 2 years. No problems, even at 25 dg Fahrenheit in NJ.
 
Craigl said:
I have been running my 2010 TE250 without the thermostat for 2 years. No problems, even at 25 dg Fahrenheit in NJ.
Click to expand...

You won't have any "problems" running without a thermostat. It really creates no "problems" to run rich. I dont have a thermostat and the only "problem" I had was when I was getting 30mpg running 60mph for 50 miles to get to some trails in my area. That just wasnt cutting it when I only had a 1.9 gallon tank that only used 1.7 gals effectively, crap, I had to fill up when I left and then AGAIN before I got there!
 
Uh, oh. Looks like I'm going to have to look at a set of these hoses:D. Not for bling, I'd take black if they offered them, honestly. The coolant system's plumbing on the x-lite 250 EFI bikes is very busy. The large lower crossover rubs on my fan housing and would touch the exhaust if not for the single clamp pushing it away 1/4". No failures yet, regardless. Seeing the CV's on Ebay for nearly $200:eek:

On another note, both my Chrome and Firefox browsers warn me about visiting CV Product's website. There is some code Google has sniffed out that they have determined as malicious as of 29DEC2011. I did not open the website.
 
@Craigl, Are you running a Power Commander? I have that with Autotune, and so I'm not sure what that does, if the engine is "cold".
I actually don't think the PCV knows the temperature and just always tries to tweak the fuel ratio to match the target AFR. Actually, I think it waits for the first 30 seconds of engine running so the stock EFI controls everything for startup, and then it kicks in. After that it probably overrides any of the stock EFI cold adjustments.
Hmm... maybe that means I can delete the thermostat regardless.

@olderhusky: I only get about 30mpg anyhow in the desert, where I never get above about 40 mph. ;-) I do sympathize with your fuel mileage problems! I'm curious, how do you know the fuel mixture changes at 170 degrees? I could imagine hooking up my ibeat and Power commander software and watching for changes as the engine temp comes up. But I don't think I'm up for all that effort. But I would be really curious what the engine temp was at 60 mph in various ambient air temperatures.
 
@ioneater: I've been afraid of the CV4 website for the same reason. I also have an inquiry in with Samco, which makes very similar or the same hoses. Just waiting for the UK to get back to the USA distributor... will report back on that.
Same opinion here on the color, and complaints on the complexity and routing of the stock hoses. Great minds think alike? Are you also running the PCV?
C
 
I see around 140-160 deg F at 40-50mph with my TT Voyager's temp sensor during the Desert 100 in April. Ambient temp was around 50F. In the slower tight stuff, 5-10mph, I typically range 190-205 with the fan cycling on at 205 deg indicated. If I'm fanning the hell out of the clutch I'll show above 200 until I get some airspeed. The TT's sensor is installed in the vertical hose above the thermostat behind the left rad. The ECU's coolant sensor is installed in the cylinder's water jacket. Not a reliable comparison for your questions but ...:D
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top