• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Stuck Cylinder, Advice Needed!

A

adam6402

Husqvarna
AA Class
Compression was low on the '82 XC250 that I acquired recently and decided to inspect the top end and presumably bore it out and install a new piston kit.

Problem is I can't get the cylinder to break loose. The engine is still mounted in the chasis for now.

Any pointers would be appreciated as unfortunately it just doesn't slide off neat and easy like shown in the Husky Engine Service manual.

Thanks,
Adam
 
On one that I was'nt going to reuse the piston on I stuck a wood dowel in the exhaust port and used the piston to "jack" the barrel loose.
 
There may be corrosion on the four cylinder studs which has swelled to fill the passages through the cylinder. It might not be a bad idea to turn it upside down as keeping the crud from those four locations out of the crank cavity is hard to be totally successful. What else could be binding? That lower fin has been bent before so you must not be the first.

Fran
 
Success!!

Well, the studs had been soaking with WD Forty for over a week. Tried using a hammer and piece of wood angled up at bottom of cylinder to try and get it to budge, no luck.

Tried Husq.Fleets method this morning and broke the biggest dowl I could get in the exhaust port. Didn't want to try a steel bar for fear of damaging something.

So driving around this afternoon pondering the problem and came up with this solution, and it worked!!

Took two 2" tie downs with straps pulliing directionally across each other and up, torqued them down very, very tight, then took a rubber mallet and started some semi-aggressive pounding on the sides of the cylinder, and walla, we have seperation:D!! Definately plenty of gunk, grime and corrosion. See pictures.
 

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Next time double nut the studs to remove them. Pull the studs and wire wheel them.
To flush the bottom end when your ready to reasemble it. Fill it full of gas.

Tip it over to drain the gas out,then flush it out with garden hose soapy hot water.
now mix quart of gas and oil fill it up again. Drain it blow it out lightly oil main bearing RH side and oil on big end of rod,top end bearing. your done.
Use a drill motor with flapper wheel to clean out cyl stud holes.
Later George
 
Up-tite;142017 said:
Next time double nut the studs to remove them. Pull the studs and wire wheel them.
To flush the bottom end when your ready to reasemble it. Fill it full of gas.

Tip it over to drain the gas out,then flush it out with garden hose soapy hot water.
now mix quart of gas and oil fill it up again. Drain it blow it out lightly oil main bearing RH side and oil on big end of rod,top end bearing. your done.
Use a drill motor with flapper wheel to clean out cyl stud holes.
Later George
Click to expand...

I'll remember that if there is a next time and thanks for the tips on cleaning the bottom end, was wondering what would work best for that.
 
I see you put the stud nuts back on in case of "lift off"! I paint the studs with anti-sieze when I reassemble. Just before I put the head on I also run a small bead of silocone around the top of the cylinder/stud. This hopefully keeps gunk from going down the studs. Dont know how well the silicone works as I haven't had one apart since doing it.
 
iv used the car wash, with the soap on, flush well, make sure you til it over and drain well, apply a generous amount of WD 40 after wards, even if your going to have it run the same day...rust is a killer.
 
fran...k.;141903 said:
It might not be a bad idea to turn it upside down as keeping the crud from those four locations out of the crank cavity is hard to be totally successful.Fran
Click to expand...

I like to do it that way, too. With studs out just like George said.
 

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Studs

Ok, so after I take the studs out and put the wire wheel to them, do they require lock-tite or anti-seize lubricant?
 
Next time you are trying to get something that is rusted apart instead of WD-40 try PB-Blaster, I have found it to be many times better.

The cyl. studs should be prepared as follows; Clean the studs and the threads in the case using a bottoming tap if necessary lube the stud with regular oil and do not tighten them in the case with pliers just finger tight then follow the torque specs when installing the cyl head. If the cylinder studs are deeply pitted I would recommend that you replace them.
 
I prep and re-install the studs very similar to lankydoug, but just a little bit tighter. I double nut them and torque them to 15ft-lbs. Can't say why, exactly, but they still seem to stay in place when you take the nuts off the head at a later disassembly, and on my bikes that's 25ft-lbs. And if they do come out it really doesn't matter.

But my method is, admittedly, just a guess. I've never been able to find a torque spec for the studs, only for the nuts. I wonder what it's "supposed to" be. :excuseme:

Ah... Husky mysteries!! :notworthy:
 
adam6402 said:
Success!!

Well, the studs had been soaking with WD Forty for over a week. Tried using a hammer and piece of wood angled up at bottom of cylinder to try and get it to budge, no luck.

Tried Husq.Fleets method this morning and broke the biggest dowl I could get in the exhaust port. Didn't want to try a steel bar for fear of damaging something.

So driving around this afternoon pondering the problem and came up with this solution, and it worked!!

Took two 2" tie downs with straps pulliing directionally across each other and up, torqued them down very, very tight, then took a rubber mallet and started some semi-aggressive pounding on the sides of the cylinder, and walla, we have seperation:D!! Definately plenty of gunk, grime and corrosion. See pictures.
Click to expand...



hey mate, i hope you see this,
i've set mine up the same way, it's got enough tension to flex the frame spine and it's really really tight, i have been belting my cylinder as well and it's been soaking in wurth "rostoff" for weeks before i got my frame back so i could set it up.
how long did it take you to get separation? mine isn't even hinting at moving.....
 
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