Stuck caliper slider pin (front brake)

[ray_ray]

One of the slider pins on my front brake caliper is stuck and will not allow the caliper to float on the disc... I've soaked it in oil and wd-40 and hit it was a hammer several times and cannot break it free ..

Anyone dealt with this issue before?


I've tore all that rubber boot off also and that was where I poured the oil and wd-40 for the last month or so ... I also have the second pin out and this allows the stuck pin to turn just a bit on its threads ...

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

PB Blaster penetrating oil, which probably won't help, otherwise, I got nothin' but crazy stuff...

Can you get a vise grip on the pin?

Can you drill a hile into the housing that would allow you to driver the pin out?

 

[ray_ray]

PB Blaster penetrating oil, which probably won't help, otherwise, I got nothin' but crazy stuff...

Can you get a vise grip on the pin?

Can you drill a hile into the housing that would allow you to driver the pin out?

I'm trying the vise pressure later today and hope that is the fix...

--

Are you talking about cutting into the housing on the left side of the stuck pin (right in front of my thumb) in this pic? If I can drill this out, can I use some epoxy or something to reseal that housing?

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

Are you talking about cutting into the housing on the left side of the stuck pin (right in front of my thumb) in this pic? If I can drill this out, can I use some epoxy or something to reseal that housing?

I guess I wouldn't drill if it's gonna be into the fluid cavity. If it's gonna be thru solid aluminum, I'd think you could fill the remaining hole with anything that wouldn't shrink.

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

Hey man, got something for ya.....mix up some ATF and acetone!

Subject: rust

Machinist's Workshop magazine recently published some information on
various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for
break out torque on rusted nuts. They are below, as forwarded by an
ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test
of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required
to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen*
No Oil used ................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix. ...........53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts
better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our
local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with
equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good
as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. Steve from Godwin-Singer says
that ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer
thinner in a 50-50 mix.

*ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid

 

[ray_ray]

Hey man, got something for ya.....mix up some ATF and acetone!

Subject: rust

Machinist's Workshop magazine recently published some information on
various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for
break out torque on rusted nuts. They are below, as forwarded by an
ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test
of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required
to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen*
No Oil used ................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix. ...........53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts
better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with
equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix.

*ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid

Thanks and ATF and acetone should both be available here! I'll try to round some this stuff in the near future ...

 

[Xcuvator]

I have had good luck with the 50-50 mix too.
Another variation is to add odorless kerosene and some (optional) lanolin. to the mix and you have a very popular bore cleaner referred to Ed's Red.


http://home.comcast.net/~dsmjd/tux/dsmjd/tech/eds_red.htm

 

[ray_ray]

I have had good luck with the 50-50 mix too.
Another variation is to add odorless kerosene and some (optional) lanolin. to the mix and you have a very popular bore cleaner referred to Ed's Red.


http://home.comcast.net/~dsmjd/tux/dsmjd/tech/eds_red.htm

I'm liking this also ... Plenty of kerosene here and maybe lanolin? Lanolin is for horses also? Its gotta pay dividends for me here.

 

[Xcuvator]

I'm liking this also ... Plenty of kerosene here and maybe lanolin? Lanolin is for horses also? Its gotta pay dividends for me here.

Make sure you use odorless lamp kerosene because it is lower in acid.
Lanolin is a wax that is squeezed from wool and is part of the reason that wool bearing animals can stay warm and dry in wet cold conditions, added to ED"s Red Bore Cleaner it adds excellent corrosion resistance. Good to your hands too

OH and I was going to mention that when the accordion seals on the slide pins get a tear it leads to the problem you have. The seals from Husky are kind of spendy but Bryon had some Honda seals that were way cheaper.

 

[ray_ray]

Make sure you use odorless lamp kerosene because it is lower in acid.
Lanolin is a wax that is squeezed from wool and is part of the reason that wool bearing animals can stay warm and dry in wet cold conditions, added to ED"s Red Bore Cleaner it adds excellent corrosion resistance. Good to your hands too

OH and I was going to mention that when the accordion seals on the slide pins get a tear it leads to the problem you have. The seals from Husky are kind of spendy but Bryon had some Honda seals that were way cheaper.

Thanks on the seals ... Yep, probably dirt got in there and it is really frozen hard ... The brakes were stoppie perfect one day and my disc was worn badly the next ...

 

[ray_ray]

Thanks and I gotta say the ATF and kerosene worked or at least helped greatly as after the stuck slide pin sat and soaked for a couple more weeks weeks, it did not fall apart but I was able to use some tools as wedge and drive the pin out ...

Next issue, is how do I seal this pin again inside the arm after I attach it because I do not have a rubber boot ... I'll probably just go to a motorcycle shop and just start looking for whatever they sell that has a rubber grommet included that might work unless someone here has a different idea that might work ..