• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Stuck Bolt

J

JRE

Husqvarna
C Class
Trying to remove the tank so I can check the valves etc and there's one bolt that refuses to come out. It just turns and turns. Any ideas on extraction short of drilling it out?
*EDIT* Finally got it out with a little extra pressure
 
You can remove the tank while keeping the shrouds on. There's only one way you might get that bolt out. That involves freezing your tank after emptying it. The nutsert in the tank is spinning while you turn that bolt. Ive been there myself. I have an IMS tank on my bike now so it doesnt matter anymore but my stock WR300 tank still has two bolts stuck in it. Also, for the bolts you did get off, put some anti-sieze on them before reinstalling.
 
Thanks, I just stuck everything back on for now and give it a go next weekend. I bought the bike used so I wasn't sure if there was something I was missing.
It only has 35 hours on it so the valves are probably fine but I wanted to check them sooner than later.

On a related topic, the engineer who designed the placement of the oil drain is a masochist :D
 
I had the same issue. Tried freezing it at -20 but the bolt would not come out. You can remove the tank with the red shrouds still attached you just have to pull it up out of the lower rad shroud. If you get the bolt out I would be interested in how you do it.
 
Had the same thing with an '11 TE250 we picked up used. Used a power drill at high speed till tank plastic was soft enough to pull out bolt and the anchor that was imbedded in plastic, then reset it back in with epoxy. I put some oil in all the rest to prevent this from happening to the others. Just don't torque them on too tight, I can see how this happened in the first place, the little squareish anchor gets twisted around in the molded square hole, rounding it so that it just spins in there.
 
Get ahold of a 1/4" drive electric impact or air impact wrench (you can do it with your hand socket wrench but it's easier with a power wrench). While turning the bolt (and spun out captured nut), use a wide thin blade like a screwdriver, stiff putty knife, or thin chisel to pry the bolt and captured nut out of the cavity at a slight angle. You can then remove the bolt from the captured nut. Use a longer bolt to reset the captured nut in its cavity, using epoxy or (my preference) Loctite Sleeve Retainer. I've made dozens of these repairs on mine and friends bikes.

Fuel tank, reset original captured nut
164926_522816267782728_595947548_n.jpg


Airbox, replaced captured nut with expanding nutsert (kit made by Marson, available at better auto parts stores)
313988_406152882782401_2067716476_n.jpg
 
JonXX said:
Get ahold of a 1/4" drive electric impact or air impact wrench (you can do it with your hand socket wrench but it's easier with a power wrench). While turning the bolt (and spun out captured nut), use a wide thin blade like a screwdriver, stiff putty knife, or thin chisel to pry the bolt and captured nut out of the cavity at a slight angle. You can then remove the bolt from the captured nut.
313988_406152882782401_2067716476_n.jpg
Click to expand...
This is actually the method I was attempting with a T spinner although not too aggressively because I didn't want to do any permanent damage.
 
JRE said:
This is actually the method I was attempting with a T spinner although not too aggressively because I didn't want to do any permanent damage.
Click to expand...
Spinning at high speed makes the plastic warm, warm plastic is more pliable so less prying with the screwdriver, if you get it hot enough, it pops out pretty easy. looks like JonXX did the same thing, his top photo looks like how mine turned out. I was kind of nervous about this too at first.
 
ARH said:
Spinning at high speed makes the plastic warm, warm plastic is more pliable so less prying with the screwdriver, if you get it hot enough, it pops out pretty easy. looks like JonXX did the same thing, his top photo looks like how mine turned out. I was kind of nervous about this too at first.
Click to expand...
yeah, like making a hole in the tank kind of nervous! :eek:
 
Thanks. While I have everything apart (or I should say WHEN), I may just upgrade the tank to IMS. Never done that before. How tough is it to move over all the necessary parts to the IMS? I may even spring for the better fuel pump I saw posted on here somewhere.
 
TE in RC said:
yeah, like making a hole in the tank kind of nervous! :eek:
Click to expand...

I did... I cried...
I was replacing my broken plastics on my 510 and both the front bolts were stuck. Had to turn the bolts while prying out with a flat blade screw driver. Got the bolt and nutsert out OK. Problem was... I needed a quick fix because I was about to load the bikes at 11pm before an early morning getaway. I used a M8 bolt that nicely made its own thread. I put a little black silicone on the bolt to be sure. One side done.

And then... I fit the other side with a slightly longer M8 bolt and it broke through.... fuel leak :banghead:

Its has however, held up OK with black silicone smeared on that bolt too... (silicone and fuel not good... i know i know)
 
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