• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Stripped Oil Drain Plug Fix

B

burns

Husqvarna
AA Class
I've pulled so much great info off this site and haven't really contributed much. Most of the answers are here if you search hard enough but I found a really easy fix for a stripped oil drain plug that may help somebody. My drain plug was at the point where it would just get snug and then if you turned it slightly more it would spin. so I thought maybe I could get a similar drain plug from something else with slightly larger threads and tap my case to fit. I hit Auto Zone and looked through the replacement plugs until I found a contender. I put it in the case to check the size and pitch difference to see if I could tap it without drilling out more material. As I started screwing it in the original threads I realized it was really close yet snug after the first couple of threads so I went for it and just screwed it in to the case. I know it thats not how threads are made but this thing went in like a tap probably because the case is mag. The end result (besides immediately going to the track) was...
1. I didn't have to tap it.
2. It has a built in rubber O-ring that replaces the crush washer to seal
3. I've done around 10 oil changes and it is very solid permanent fix. You can torque it down to spec and all is good.
Never leaks****************************************
My bike is a 1980 390cr so there are a lot of years that this trick will work. The part is M14x1.5 pilot point with gasket. Here is a pic of the packaging. Dorman Part #65266.
IMG_20170608_175528.jpgIMG_20170608_175528.jpgIMG_20170608_175548.jpgWP_20160112_005.jpg
 
Perhaps the plug is a bit over size. Definitely better than going to a pipe plug.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...ck=Search_02330_1411108_-1&pt=02330&ppt=C0023

I got quite a few results searching for "65266 M14x1.50 pilot point"

The magnet from an original one can be forced or glued into a drilled hole in a plug like that. I sacrificed a drain plug from a Swedish Husky to put in that bike in my avatar. The Italians skimped on the magnet at least on my bike.
 
I either weld up the hole and drill and tap it of go to another size up either American drain plug or metric.

My 1980 Suzuki GS 750L had a rubber mushroom replacement drain plug. I paid $150 for this running bike. I removed the oil pan and drilled and tapped it to the larger sized plug. No problem.

My son stripped one on his ts185. Using my 18" handled 1/2" ratchet. I taught him righty tighty, lefty loosey.
 
As long as there is a flat surface left on the case for the copper washer to still seal after its threaded.

I'm not sure of the size of the orginal metric thread but if you go up one size in metric retap it and add a flange bolt and a copper washer it will work. If you can't find a bolt/oil plug www.boltdepot.com has metric flanged bolts we can cut the length.
 
Bigbill said:
As long as there is a flat surface left on the case for the copper washer to still seal after its threaded.

I'm not sure of the size of the orginal metric thread but if you go up one size in metric retap it and add a flange bolt and a copper washer it will work. If you can't find a bolt/oil plug www.boltdepot.com has metric flanged bolts we can cut the length.
Click to expand...

Back when I was a kid I stripped the drain plug on my then-new 1976 250CR. :banghead:

Malcolm Smith motorcycles used a 14mm x 1.25 helicoil and replaced the original plug with the plug Yamaha used in the cylinder head on many models in the "spare" spark plug hole. They even installed a magnet in the plug. I think it cost me $10 for the repair. (they were a great shop... did many things free to help out a dumb kid) Repair worked great. Never had another problem
 
mate clipped a rock on his kdx 200 around the sump plug. mr mechanic went to weld it and the case fell apart...looked like it was made of an old coke can! Kawasaki came to the party with a new case half
 
cooool I love the bass.....Mick Kairn was my favourite bass player..he made the fretless bass sound like an electric effects machine.. sorry hiiijack!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top