Steering stem bearing race removal

Ive tried all my usual tricks to remove these, levering them out, blind bearing puller, heating stem cups and icing the race but no go. I will now weld some scrap across the race diameter and use that to bang them out, but in the two times Ive done that in the past it is always a tricky weld.

Any other techniques?

Simply run a bead of weld around the race where the bearing rolled. The race will drop out when it cools off.

My method is to carefully cut through the inner race with a thin cutting blade in a Dremel. The hit the cut with a small sharp chisel. Being hardened the race will split and come loose.

cutting most of the way through and chiseling the rest works great. falls right out...
the weld works too but i would use only if the cut method is not feasible

there is a took that works great
it was in a previous thread

http://www.motosport.com/product?ps...RK-STEER-REM&gclid=CLK_oPvX6NACFQyNaQodqI0MKg

Made one of them once

Mine came out really easily by using a 3/4" steel rod cut cleanly, go in from the top to drive the lower race out by its protruding inner edge, then the reverse for the top race, I've done all my bikes this way for many years and never had any that I couldn't remove, yet.
Tony.

Those are an excellent tool for removing the outer race from the frame. But they don't work on the ML frame lower outer as there is a large boss that stops this.

I use this exhaust expansion tool. You can expand the tool inside the steering head until the square edge is snug against the race. Then pop it out with a hammer...works every time.you can pick these up at just about any auto parts store or Harbor Freight.

Thanks guys, but I'm not talking about removing the cups, that's easy, its the race that sits in the cup that must come out. I tried a blind bearing puller, which would be similar to the muffler expansion tool, but cant get a bite under the lip of the race. I want to try the bead of weld, just have not had the time. Ive cut and chiseled off races on triple stems, but was concerned about trying it on an internal race - there is no where for the race to expand to allow it to crack - its held in by the cups.

gotcha
typically call that the bearing and the cup the race
but to your point, if it's the one on the triple clamp you will need top use a press and push the stem out
there was recently a very comprehensive thread on that

Nope, not talking triple clamp stem but while we are on it, I found pressing out the stem way more hassle than cutting off the bearing. By the time you set up the press and heat the clamp, the dremel has that thing off, and there is no risk of damaging the stem threads. Plus on some Husky stems that lower bearing has to ride over two very close tolerance areas to come off, so you would have to press twice. Cut it, its off and you can use the old split bearing to drive the new one on.

I'm not concerned, it will come out with weld or cutting.

if your trying to get the stem out of the top bearing ie disassemble the headset, I used a block of alloy and a mash hammer on a particularly tight one. took a couple of good whacks to free it up. threads were fine. watch your toes, she fairly flies out when it lets go

getting the bearing off the shaft is easy using the cut n chisel method..on the swedes a longer sharp punch knocks the races out easily..

Having troubles getting the stem separated from the lower clamp, I have removed ciclip, does it come out only in one direction only?
Thanks.

Supposedly only comes out by pressing down from the top. you need to heat the triple clamp and protect the threads somehow (brass or other). I used the stem nut and was able to get it to move with a HF 20-ton press. But why are you pressing out? I felt it was way more hassle and room for error than it was worth. Dremel that bearing off and move on...and don't forget to save the thin washer under the bottom bearing.

I just knicked the lower race with a grinder and chiselled it out. be careful of all threads, I stuffed the locking collar nut and thread by too much enthusiasm and a hammer.

good point re washer, mine is mia.

Enthusiasm? Get a bigger hammer. Most of the time in bearing race applications there's two u shaped slots in the frame were the bearing seats so they can be removed with a long punch or rod. From the other end.

If you too a piece of flat stock cut it to just fit inside the race, drill and tap a centered hole in it, weld to the race and use a slide hammer like a dent puller. I have a monster slide hammer that I pull out swing arm bolts.

Bill, he's talking about the bearing that is on the stem, not the seats in the steering tube.