• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

steering is stiff

P

Paul S

Husqvarna
A Class
I have a 2008 TC 510 that I race every year; rolling it out of the garage after a long winter I noticed that the steering is very stiff. Is this a DIY job, or do I need special tools, a press, etc...,to change out the bearing, or is just a greasing necessary?

Thanks
 
Tear it down and check those bearings. If they are just dry and not rusty/damaged, then grease the heck out of them and reseat and torque the steering head. If they are toasty then no big worries, conical bearings aren't pressed. Like wheel bearings of same type, they float in the race and tension is set with the nut.
 
Put the bike up on a stand with the front end off the ground. Check to see if it is hard to push "off the center" to one side or another. If it sticks right there, the race (usually the lower one) is probably worn. Any notchy feeling as the front end moves through its arc indicates worn or dry bearings.
 
The races can be removed from the steering head with a punch or shrinking them with a bead of weld. The lower cone on the steering stem I usually remove by pressing the stem out of the lower triple clamp. With a little heat on the triple clamp you should be able to drive the stem out, being careful not to bugger the threads on the top. Probably put the nut on and strike it with a plastic, brass or lead hammer and of course supported well underneath. Heat is your friend.
If you haven't greased them before chances are they are toast. When the bikes are new they usually don't have much grease on the bearings.
 
Dirtdame said:
Put the bike up on a stand with the front end off the ground. Check to see if it is hard to push "off the center" to one side or another. If it sticks right there, the race (usually the lower one) is probably worn. Any notchy feeling as the front end moves through its arc indicates worn or dry bearings.
Click to expand...
Yes, there's resistance moving the the wheel to the left or right. I checked my son's CR 125 and it was a little stiff but loosened up after I moved the bars back and forth a few times, but I'll deal with his too since they are on their way out.
 
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