• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Stator wire grommet

F

Flynn

Husqvarna
A Class
Hiya guys, pickup coil problems after smashing a stator casing.

From fitting a new pickup coil in February and cutting a slit in the grommet for one of the wires to solder it further up after it had snapped and now having to cut a slot for the other wire for the same reason I am finding that the stator wire rubber grommet is letting oil past it.

Not a lot, but I wish to do a track day and the bike won't pass scrutineeing with oil leaking out, even if it is a little bit.

I have looked on parts fiche for the grommet and the section that it should be in just shows the outline with no part number

View attachment 73408

There is the option of buying a replacement stator from Poland which comes with a pickup coil for £200 which is quite good value for money, but it seems unnecessary just for a $2 piece of rubber.
 
Maybe add a bead of black silicone to the grommet and let it fully cure before reassembling?

.
 
Use some automotive RTV Black Silicone used for gaskets. It's oil proof and will seal up the little holes you had to make to pass the wires through. It's available at any automotive parts store.
 
Thanks guys I was hoping I wouldn't have to go that route since it's kinda a fiddly pain in the ass. Although before I go off road I am going to have to sort it because if oil can get out, that means water can get in and that would be no good at all! Looks like I am going to have to pull the stator cover again and really be precise with the silicone application.
 
Figured I would update this thread. I noticed stators for different models of Husqvarnas coming up in the related searches on eBay so I decided to check the pictures and see if the grommets were the same. For the Italian era Huskies they are, so I snapped this one for £40

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262759615830

I am going to cut the plugs off, slide the grommet off and then do the reverse on my 610 stator. Still expensive for a grommet but I figure it's the cheapest whole stator I am going to find since they don't sell the grommets anywhere separately.

It sure will be nice to be able to go off road again, I didn't want to risk water getting into the engine. That will also tick one of the major mechanical faults off my fixing list.
 
Update time again! I got though 3 pickup coils making this work, I was soldering with a mini blowtorch with a naked flame, it was working okay and then stopped working, the solder wouldn't stick to the wires even though I cleaned the wires in a vinegar and salt water solution! This is due to not having an electrical supply in the garage I was renting.

After doing so, the stator and pickup coil are both back together, I only made one error, in that I cut the wires too near the stator end which places the soldered portions right behind the exhaust headers which makes them very hot and not great for a soldered joint! To remedy the situation I have heat wrapped the exhaust headers which will keep the stator wires safe from the heat.

The reason I cut them that end was because I didn't think the wires would slide through the grommet easily, but they did, so easily infact that you could cut them at the plug end and slide the grommet all the way down without need for a lubricant.

Once I got the grommet on I silicone'ed around it and that has stopped oil leaking out of the crankcase completely, now I have the enduro setup back on and am dual sporting like a boss!

Here are some pics of the job:








The only thing I would like to do as a finishing touch would be to add a durable sheath to the wires for extra insulation from the exhaust headers, but I can't think would be up to the job. I tried duct tape but predictably it melted instantly. Some sort of self adhesive insulating tape would be ideal but I can't think of the name for such a product.
 
Another update, I had a problem with the way I routed it last time around, one of the wires had the insulation melted on the exhaust headers where it went between them at the front of the engine.

I had to pull the stator casing and splice the wire. This time around I wrapped the wires in two layers of duct tape, added some plastic corrugated tubing, wrapped duct tape around that and then cable tied over the duct tape to make a durable thick cable.

I also pulled the radiators and rerouted the stator cable the factory way which is still not ideal as it is up the main frame tube and goes right between the headers where they exit the engine so I figure where they will be hottest as well.

With this cable I made being thicker than the standard one it actually touches the right hand header, so I wrapped some heat tape around both headers, but I figure it won't stay on for long.

What I really need to find is self adhesive heat tape, like duct tape but heat resistant, either that or a second hand stator on eBay (good luck with that one!).

Anyway, here are some pics of the work:

Take one bundle of wires wrapped in duct tape:



Add corrugated tubing:



Then duct tape and cable tie over that and you have yourself a nice solid cable.

Also this is where I wrapped the heat tape (and the finished product):



The thing I don't like about routing it the factory way is the lack of accessibility, if anything melts through I will have to pull the rads again just to get to the cable.
 
Something went slightly wrong there, it was these two pics next:





Oh the joys of owning an aging and obscure bike!
 
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