Hello people of cafehusky. Been a long time since i last posted on here thought there might be people intrested in my bike mods to date. Got the usual mods O2 sensor eliminated Pcv Autotune 510 cam Titanium valves High comp forged piston Htm race ecu Arrow 2-1-2 headers Twin gpr cans Just installed piston and valves doing valve clearences today. Been about a year process looking forward to riding the finnished product. I found it hard to find parts in the begining but if anyone would like to know where anything came from give me a shout happy to help.
That's a lot of engine mods. Let us know how the bike feels when you test it. Also didn't know that 510 cams fit the 630.
Yah mate anything with the red top cam cover is interchangeable fairly sure it's the 510rr cam unsure wether it's worth the cash you pay though maybe a valve grind might have been more cost effective. The duration is slightly shorter but the peaks higher. The 530rr is the way to go longer duration and peaks higher but u cant get them for blood nor money.
Bike up and running Finnaly own a true motard goes real well Power wheelies 1-3 clutches up in 4th and has more pull then a schoolboy
Fucken hell blown piston already Probly my fauld didt retard the timing Went real good before Im gutted Right why can i not get my 600cc to go as good as a 450 bout to lose my shit Im thinking bout carbie conversation im fairly sure the 510/530 setup runs on 630 All i want is a motard feeling like iv the wrong bike for it Why is a 450 quicker then a 600 logicaly makes no sence
Dyno bob you seem to be the guro I need help getting a 630 to be a motard Do i dump the fuel injection for carb Im so balls deep in this city boy motard wana be 630 i kinda wana solution Another couple of g is nothing compared to a new bike I need help I want my motard to run like a god dam motard
That truely sucks!!! What 450 is quicker? Probably weight differences imo and if your talking a 450 dirt bike gearing weight and 450 is a race bike.
I don't think I've ever seen as fast of a turn-around for an answer to a question like that. pomuk- I'm really not trying to make light of it. That really does suck bad- sorry to hear it man.
Does your pcv have ignition mapping? It has autotune, so it must have a sensor that replaces the o2 sensor? Did you change the valve springs? What is your compression ratio now, standard being 12.4:1?
Sorry to hear of the troubles! PC-V, Autotune, aftermarket ecu ... there is a lot going on there ... plus all the mechanical mods. I'd recommend investing in some dyno time with a knowledgeable tuner to get a baseline map created and let Autotune fine-tune it over time. If you hurt a forged piston in a normally aspirated motor something was badly wrong. Good luck! .
Silly question, but what grade of fuel were you using? 95 or less octanes is already pushing it with the stock CR of 12.4:1, I wouldn't imagine in what kind of knocking hell the bike would go a even higher compression. My 610 used to knock with just a 12.4:1 piston and a bad oil ring (which i'm told ups the compression ratio, not sure about that), it' doesn't take long for the piston to suffer damage. You should post some pics and more detailed specs of the mods, including brand of the piston.
Look you lot what ever your reply its always well taken. We all bikers aye and we all live to learn. 98 octane pump gas. And as for compression yah im a dumb one after the fact didt look into it. Im going to go back to oem piston for now summer's here and i need a working bike. Yep dynobob some dyno time should have been a must but there far and few between now in new zealand. Im just finding this bike tame as aye gutted realy cause i love my husky. I will keep in touch and research more into a dynotune even with a oem piston. Lucky though no marks on the head/valves or cylinder barrel i do need to inspect crank though.
It seems like a crack developed on the perimeter of the domed part and then spread out. From my small academic knowledge of materials that could indicate bad machining of the dome, improper alu alloy, improper forging etc. Seems more like a material failure than a strictly mechanical one to me. Also remember that the power gain/compression ratio curve is a logarithmic one, so at higher CRs big increments mean little power improvement, and 12.4 is alreay a pretty beefy CR to begin with for a street engine.
Ok sorry for my delayed reply i domt get emails saying iv had a reply from you lot. As for spark plug its mint as i understand why you asked as its a sign of how lean/hot or rich the motor was running so thank you but been into 2strokes for years so had to learn all about that one lol. And yes i do think there was a slight defect in the piston also agree 12.4 comp is already high. I will be honest and say i meesed up. When doing the cams i lined up the top dead center then lined marks on outside face of cam with the shell of the motor like the manual said. But i didt realise the was marks on inside of cam that lines up with the cam gear. Cutting to the point i had one of the cams one tooth off from where it should have been. So add a maybe defecred piston with my mistake and boom you end up not being able to ride for 6 weeks. So decided on new oem piston kit and gaskets just been out for first ride since bedin piston and is running real well. No more mods for now maybe some lighter wheels and thats me dun. Sorry for long responce thanks to all your suport much appreciated.
Yah all up and running good now. Now in the process of looking for a aftermarket speedo with temp sensor always been keen to keep a aye on temp. since i got moisture in speedo my backlight and other lights on speedo no longer work thought id go after market. Trail tech seems ok but you need a seprate add on for indicator lighte ect. Would love to find one the plugs straigt in without any mods to wires.