SMR 510 '08 - Rough Idle

Hello fellow Husky riders.

I bought a second hand SMR 510 2008. It has very rough idle and stalls on stop lights when the bike is hot. I'll post a video and list below the repairs I've tried already.







It's not a very consistent behavior. I can't replicate the stalling every time. This is a list of the things I've done/checked prior to the videos (surely I'll forget something and I'll add it in the list later with an update tag).

1. The PoweUp kit was fitted by the previous owner. The resistor plug is fitted and the resistance on it is what is sould be (don't remember the value).
2. I checked the CPS sensor resistance on a cold bike and the value was 96.2 ohms. The resistance on a warmed up bike (around 5 minutes on idle) was around 107.3 ohms. I guess it's normal to fluctuate, since the manual says 100 ohms +-20%.
3. The fuel pump was tested on a stand, the zip tie fix is applied and the fuel filter was changed.
4. Battery is changed.
5. The air intake manifold is changed, because it was cracked.
6. The air filter is cleaned.
7. The TPS is set to 100.2% on full throttle.
8. The voltage regulator is changed. (I should upload a pic of what it is, because I'm not much of a technical guy)
9. Coolant temp sensor is changed with the new version of it (Old temp sensor part number was 8000A6736 which was superseded by part number 8000h3649). VERY IMPORTANT - when i removed the coolant temp sensor the bike idled perfectly!!! That's why I change it, but the idle is still very rough.
10. iBeat shows no faults. FB Adjustment is 100 100 100.
11. I have a JD Tuner. I tried adding/subtracting fuel to idle(green/blue) and low rpms(green) - idle was still very rough. Settings (as seen in the video) are :

GREEN -3/4
YELLOW - 4
RED - 3
GREEN BLUE - 4
YELLOW BLUE - 4
RED BLUE - 5

I'm desperately trying to get my husky to work and I need your expertise guys. I don't have a dealer which can help me in my country. This bike is my dream and I won't sell it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

PS: I'll update the list below with things you guys suggest, in order to keep things tidy. I'll start with what I'm planning on doing first.

TODO:

1. Consult a mechanic about checking the cam timing and valve clearance.
2. ...

Check ALL wiring under the tank: to and from the CPU, from the tank, from the temp sensor. If any wires are rubbed bare, it can interfere with the functions of any/all components.

Thanks a lot, OlderHuskyRider. I sure will! Does CPU=ECU, because the CPU that I'm thinking of the one of a computer?

Yes, here is the wire bundle from my 2010 TE450's ECU. the wire bundle even wore grooves in the frame

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Kind of a long shot, but have you pulled your injector and cleaned it?

Be careful when dismantling the injector, there is a green rubber oring that you think is part of the injector but it can become dislodged during removal/reinstall and can turn bad real fast.

Thanks guys. I checked the wiring and couldn't find anything that worn out. The worst I could find is the the wire running from the positive terminal of the battery. I cleaned the oxidation and isolated it.



The next thing I'll do is buy some electrical contact spray and spray all plugs. After that I'll try to remove the injector and send it for ultrasonic cleaning.

Do you have a catalytic converter? or is the silencer clogged? the bike sounds rich and garbled. I'm assuming since you cleaned the airfilter that no mice nest or rags are in there.

quickly take the muffler off at the midpipe and see how it runs. (gonna be loud).

how does it run w/o the JD box in the circuit?

CPS=CTS or WTS I'm guessing? coolant temperature? and if it idled so good without the sensor, that might be a big clue. How did it run overall?

definitely confirm the valve timing/clearances.

good luck, Stoyan.

OHR- those 3 photos are fantastic, and are a Cafe Husky resource... perfectly illustrates the wiring issues. I've copied and saved 'em, btw.

The JD Tuner makes no difference. CPS is the crankshaft position sensor.
I removed the coolant sensor again and this time there was no difference - still rough idle.
I'll take the muffler off and see if there's any difference.

hell, I don't think that's a long shot- I would've checked that early on (before removing the pump/filter). Sounds very much like an atomization problem. Stoyan, try one of the cheesy injector cleaning methods on youtube (if you're not in the US, cheesy could mean: fast, cheap, stupid) or look for 268's image (an aerosol can of carb cleaner hooked to an injector with a battery)

CPS- oops, my mistake (we gotta a 100 names for it here). Your readings are perfect and I assume you don't have a spark problem. Although coils (and trigger coils aka CPS) sometimes have heat related intermittent failures.

I'd still be looking for indicators of richness or breathing problems (intake or exhaust track). Valve timing next.

So I cleaned the injector. The guys from the cleaning stand said it was 12% clogged.
I mounted it back and an interesting thing happened. It was again hard to start and the first 5 seconds the idle was rough, but then it got okay. I left it to warm up a bit and it again started to idle the same way as before - very rough.

So cleaning the injector helped, but didn't fix it. :/

Just an update. The valves were way out of spec and the cams were off by one tooth. Cleaning the injector also helped. That FIXED the rough idle. Now I have a different stalling issue, which might be the TPS, but not sure.

The one tooth off on either cam can improve WFO performance, but, yes, idle will suffer.

Check your intake manifold boot for cracks, the cracks/leak might not be visible or respond to carb spray trick.

It was cracked and I already changed it. Thanks!