• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Sigh..How do I reinstall the shock absorber hydraulic damping screw?

sovietdoughnut said:
I was monkeying around and twisted it too far and it popped out. How do I reinstall it? Will I have to remove the shock?
Click to expand...

Don't know if this will help, second post in this topic http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/rear-shock-adjustment-question.44451/#post-435019 Might give you an insight. Did any spring or detent balls come flying out?

I dropped my shock off at the shop to see about getting a new spring. Supposed to pick it up tomorrow. I will ask the technician about it. Shock comes off real easy, and I would suggest removing it and the triangle link. Clean and regrease the needle bearings in the triangle link. They get alot of dirt off of the back wheel.

Hope somebody else has the answer for you before then.
 
Yea, a spring and ball bearing of sorts came out with it. I can see how everything is supposed to go back in but the screw won't stay in presumably because it can't go in far enough for the pin that has extended all the way down blocking the insertion.

I'm not a smart man :(

If you could ask the technician that would be great -- I don't know of a Husky tech in a 200 mile radius.
 
Gravity is your friend, or enemy depending on what you are doing. :thumbsup:

Shock comes off real easy, so that is your best bet. You will see what needs to be done better and have access to do the job with both hands and a flashlight etc.

Can you post up pics of the parts? Don't know if you can get a good pic of the inside where the adjuster goes. I have never had one apart. And I am not going to pull mine apart just to find out how it works LOL.
 
dsc08224-jpg.44627


That's the outside. I shamelessly stole the pic from another thread :)

I can't get a picture of the inside right now because I filled the hole with grease to keep debris out of it while riding. Maybe I'll take the shock off this evening and see if I can make sense of it.

Thanks!
 
I talked to the tech and what he says is not going to make you happy.

But first, I need to know if fluid or nitrogen escaped. Could be a problem filling it back up.

If not, you may have a chance. The pin you speak of, could be the metering needle, and if still in place, may not have relieved the pressure in the shock. To get your screw back in, you are going to have to improvise an installation tool, similar to putting and armature into brushes on an electric motor, where you can't get at the brushes.

Somehow you have to depress that pin enough with some tool small enough to let the screw and spring and detent ball all get assembled.

I have never done one of these, and will not pull mine apart to find out how it works :lol: You are going to have to bench it, assuming the fluid and pressure is still there. Might be money well spent taking to a pro who does it regular.
 
The fix will depend on whether the rebound adjustment on these shock is connected directly to the fluid or if the adjuster rod has seals between the fluid and the actual adjusting screw area. If seald you still may have the rod now in the incorrect orientation. If any fluid came out you are seriously stuck without access to proper shock regassing tools. I am pretty sure the shocks are rebuildable from the outside looks but that can be deceiving. Find a good shock rebuilder, send it to them and seeing as they have to take it apart, get it revalved at the same time. You wont be sorry if it is done properly as the stock shock is marginal at best.
 
When my rear shock got rebuilt by Ian at Promoto, here in Oz. Ian thought it was a simple rebuild job. Turns out he didn't have the tools to work on it. He then forwarded the rear shock onto SOS in Penrith. It cost me $600 as quoted for spring, revalve and charge point to be fitted. So it could work out to be a bit more expensive. I now have an easily servicable shock that really works. :D Just got to get the engine sorted now. :(
 
Ugh, this is turning out to be a bigger issues that I expected. I have the hole filled with grease at the moment and the shock seems to be working fine (maybe just a little slow on the rebound). I'm still driving the bike.

Could I upgrade the shock to something better? What are my options there?
 
I am currently waiting for word from Teknik on an aftermarket shock . Was hoping for a Jucugar but looks like I may have to go Nitron. I will post when I get the word. Hopefully soon. Do not like the stock rear shock much anyway.
BTW if you look at the shock it is a BMW one ( BMW logo and part number on it) and may be the same as the 650 single BMW for size and fitment.
 
This is what is on my shock
"BMW SACHS
8000H5190
105034105 or 10634106 or 106034105 or 10534106 ( the 5/6 character is indistinct)
37 12
There is a little BMW logo as well
The last bit is prob week and year of manufacture.
 
Greg Jetnikoff said:
This is what is on my shock
"BMW SACHS
8000H5190
105034105 or 10634106 or 106034105 or 10534106 ( the 5/6 character is indistinct)
37 12
There is a little BMW logo as well
The last bit is prob week and year of manufacture.
Click to expand...


Looking at the parts list (seems to be my current pastime) the Strada shock has part # 8000H5198 and the Terra 8538890
 
has anyone sent this info to OhlinsPro, or anyone else to see if they can match up a replacement shock?
 
"has anyone sent this info to OhlinsPro, or anyone else to see if they can match up a replacement shock?"
That would be of great interest. I already have Teknik chasing this up for me so I am committed unless he comes up blank ( not likely Nick is pretty good at getting you good suspension). Ohlins would have been shock of choice though.

Interesting about the number. The lettering is DEFINITELY 8000H5190. The 5 and 6 at smeary but the 0 is quite distinct. But as I have said Husky (Italians) are notorious for changing parts during production runs. This can be good and bad. This was read with an eyeglass with the spring off so quite clear.
 
Just called a local BMW bike shop, none of those numbers are a BMW number. Sounds like one of the suspension people just need to get their hands on a shock (fork too for that matter) to find a fix or replacement. Or send it AUS! :)
 
I did a quick measure of our fork and it appears an early KYB yamaha fork will fit the triple clamps. Ratel engineering makes a axle and caliper kit for putting the Yamaha fork on a 650gs. Considering the BMW 650 GS runs the same front wheel all the spacing should be the same. I found used forks for around 300.00 and Ratel gets 475.00 for the adapter kit. Then the forks would need rebuilt, revalved and the travel reduced to match the back. Seems like the cheapest way to go for fully adjustable front forks.
 
I took my bike to " Shock Treatment " and they converted my forks to conventional forks.
No more one side compression and the other rebound.
They feel much better.
My original springs were measured at 7.5 and were kept.
A re valve and different size shims, I now have gold valves at the bottom of my forks.
The inner tubes had holes at opposite ends, now they are both the same.
Terry put a aluminium sleeve over one end then drilled holes at the other end to match the over.
Rear shock was revalved and a new spring and made serviceable.
The original spring was measured at 10kg, the new one is slightly firmer at 10.75.
I will post some photos tomorrow .
Cheers
 
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