Show us your modified kickstand!

[2wheeler]

Gave up looking for an aftermarket alternative. What did you do?

Would like to solve two issues:

More lean to the shift lever side when stand is down, perhaps a larger footprint.
Less lean to the brake pedal side when folding up the stand.

What type of welding machine should be used?

 

[danny318]

TIG welding

 

[frontiercat]

I don't think the best answer is welding. Had a local welder alter one for me. It lasted one ride after I ditched on a dune, wrong side up.

The local guy welds aircraft parts so I feel confident in his skills, just thinking the cast stand is not the best platform to start with.

I do have an aftermarket steel stand for my 630...works great.

 

[2wheeler]

The gentleman with the welding shield should know! thanks!

Yeah cast aluminum. I suppose a larger foot would have to be of the same material. Then hope it would last. hmmm, where to strap a triangle stand on the bike, ughhh. I look at my 72 Suzuki and she has no problem with the kickstand ahem.

 

[2wheeler]

Just saw this thread http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/awsome-side-stand-for-dohc-tes.4353/

Is there a solution I have not come across?

 

[ray_ray]

Just saw this thread http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/awsome-side-stand-for-dohc-tes.4353/

Is there a solution I have not come across?

I'm looking to tie a piece of bamboo (of the correct length) on my TC250s so I always have a KS where ever I stop at... Bamboo is lightweight and should last ~2 yrs before a replacement is needed and will float in the rainy season. Pics later

 

[2wheeler]

LOL! The bamboo in the Philippines must certainly be of finer quality than that in the states. Can you hook me up?

I have decided against the one bicycle training wheel on ebay. Although it did have a knobby tire.

 

[ray_ray]

LOL! The bamboo in the Philippines must certainly be of finer quality than that in the states. Can you hook me up?

I have decided against the one bicycle training wheel on ebay. Although it did have a knobby tire.

I do have a few extra cycles here I can spend as needed... I'll commit to that much and next step in the thought-process needed on the stand is the carrying place. It is not designed yet and is the current sticking point...

Not wanting to give any trade secrets just yet but I'm not sure how a piece of bamboo will look attached to the SA. The exhaust can might work out ok for a mounting place if it does not start a fire when riding. A little smoke might be acceptable if the smell of smothering bamboo is tolerable. Might look like a funky heat shield?

If I can go native on the attaching material, cost per unit is $0 other than my time spent (another 0). That makes this operation, 100% butter.
--
There's also the ARM mobile chip designer route if I get this this designed and then license out the design and whoever can build it.

 

[2wheeler]

Does this sound feasible? Create a bracket that picks up the chain roller and factory kickstand mounting locations? (Perhaps the chain roller would need to be swapped for a narrower one?) Then attach a fabricated, or an existing stand? Even one that is adjustable and has a bigger foot?

 

[danny318]

If you take it to someone who really knows how to weld, it will be as strong or stronger than stock and look good too. I lowered my bike 1.5 inches and shortened the kickstand by 1.6.

 

[268fords]

How the hell did the welder get a good weld on the cast aluminum stand? You can barely see the grinder marks.

 

[shilo020]

$25 at blacksmith for shortened and larger foot

 

[Big Timmy]

My 2 cents. Having welded plenty of aluminum since about 1974

First of all these cast Aluminum stands are machined and then heat treated before sending them down the production line. Any welding, Tig or Heli arc welding. "Heli Arc" which is Tig welding with the addition of a small amount of Helium (say 5 or 6 psi) introduced into the Argon shielding gas at a pressure at (say 25 psi) through a metered flow box or "Y" branch fitting will melt the aluminum to a puddle quicker, thereby concentrating the heat to a smaller heat affected zone. The idea like the picture above shows the best option of just putting a larger tip after trimming it to the proper length. This procedure is the best option keeping the heat affected zone to a minimum. Alumimum conducts heat very rapidly.

Aluminum melts at approximately 1214 degrees fahrenheit. If you get the heat affected zone anything above 450 degrees fahrenheit you will anneal the aluminum to a dead soft condition and it will easily bend and it can or will fail eventually. The idea is to get in and weld and get out as soon as you can. Many people can weld aluminum with a Tig welder but many people who have Tig welders shouldn't weld any aluminum. With todays Square Wave technology and the common Older pulse technology built into modern day Tig welding machines, once set up correctly a 10 year old or perhaps a pet Monkey could damn near do it. Knowing where to do it is the trick and whether it will screw up the part itself. Thats why they have smaller brick lined heat treating ovens in just about every engine building shop that does any cylinder head repair work on aluminum heads for cars or bikes. If it gets too hot during welding say to repair and reinstall new valve seats or cracks and it isn't reheat treated the part is junk.... New kickstand tips aside.

Its like the difference of T-6 aluminum compared to T-4 aluminum. Haven't you ever seen someone take a smoky sooty acetylene flame with a torch and put a light layer of soot from the flame on a piece of aluminum sheet for instance then warm it up with a nuetral Oxy/acetlylene flame to make it dead soft to work or shape it. Thats the process of annealing when the aluminum is slowly warmed enough you know its annealed as the soot cooks off at about 500 degrees. Aluminum work hardens over time and shaping as well and this may have to be done several times to get the disired shape without it cracking.

The same similar process of annealing is used to shape cooper and brass just not done the same way.

 

[2wheeler]

Cutting and welding appear to be the one option available.

Danny & Shilo your stands look great. And Timmy thanks for the detailed explanation.

As a teen I briefly worked in a small fab shop. The furthest I advanced was fitting using stick. I recall aluminum being tricky and only one guy there welded it.

Perhaps my best plan is to have it cut with a band saw then a slightly larger foot welded. That is after the welder reads Timmy's post.

 

[Mike Childers]

I never did take any pictures of mine, but I took an angle grinder to a pro moto billet kickstand for my 07 TE510. I believe it was a YZ model. With little modification and a small spacer, it worked great. I took measurements on the bike, and found the closest to what I needed at the local shop.

 

[Big Timmy]

If you take it to someone who really knows how to weld, it will be as strong or stronger than stock and look good too. I lowered my bike 1.5 inches and shortened the kickstand by 1.6.

This picture of this stand is as cast and has no welding done on it? Please explain.

 

[danny318]

This picture of this stand is as cast and has no welding done on it? Please explain.

It was shortened 1.6 inches and Tig welded back together. Painted over so it is tough to see. See where the line kind of fades away, thats where the weld is

 

[2wheeler]

Very nice looking work danny

Right now mine is sitting in a trackside wheel chock haha