1. 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

Retrofitting “Blowby” System - TE310R (2014)

Discussion in '4 Stroke' started by MitchMan406, Mar 12, 2019.

  1. MitchMan406 Husqvarna
    B Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    TE310R
    Overhauling my engine and upon disassembling the topend some weeks ago, I discovered brown caked buildup in the intake boot and intake valve chambers.

    Someone on here noted that the blowby system redirects oil vapor back into the system to reuse/recycle.

    I want to kill the plumbing parts that reintroduce the oil vapor back into the system.

    Here’s the system:

    7A9A2B31-087C-4CCE-96BB-EBF1884C9C40.png

    Can part #6 (to the intake boot) be attached to a filter and re-routed?

    What about #6 to the valve cover?

    Can it be attached to a filter as well?

    What’s the point of running these hoses to the frame?

    Is the frame acting like a distillation tower of sorts?

    My goal here is to keep the engine clean and promote longevity of the engine.

    I care nothing of emissions or fuel economy.

    Anything I’m missing?
    Thoughts?
  2. Trenchcoat85 Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Northern NorCal
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    '14 TE 310R
    Other Motorcycles:
    '85 shovel, '75 DT400, '97 XR400
    you want the liquid oil to flow back into the motor, not necessarily the vapor.

    right now your liquid return goes to the plug at the bottom/REAR of the motor (a fairly crappy design IMNSHO). The TC is vented to the atmosphere basically; I'd copy that (except that I'd keep the vapor vent to the airfilter- which is what you're trying to eliminate). Also, consider using the higher vent port for your "atmosphere" line. Regardless, you'll hafta plug an unused barb.

    There may be a screen in the barb pointed at by the red arrow. Consider removing it.

    You will need to do something about the bottom/rear engine plug.

    the previous parts page:

    TC oil plumbing.jpg
  3. Darkside Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    SF Bay Area
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    none left
    Other Motorcycles:
    beta, ktm, aprilia
  4. R_Little Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    NJ
    Zip TY sells a kit that directs the oil return to the oil cap on top of the motor.

    That eliminates the silly hose to the drain plug that makes oil changes a PITA and the potential that the hose might come off the drain plug dumping all your oil on the ground and seizing the motor straight away. Bad design indeed!

    My 2010 TE250 is a two hose affair that does NOT have any oil return to the motor at all. Any oil that gets blown out of the motor gets sucked into the intake boot covering everything with an oil film. I was hoping the 3 hose system on the newer bikes eliminated that. I guess not. The 310 has higher crankcase pulses and I guess that is why they added the crankcase return hose to try to solve the problem.

    Anyway, I noticed hi speed road riding sucks a lot of oil into the intake tract on my 2010. Worn rings and blow-by will of course blow more oil out of the motor also. Since the motor only holds .9 qt of oil you need to check the level often if you ride at high speeds. My 2012 310 does not seem to suck oil but i have not taken the intake off the look.

    I believe someone re-routed the hoses to atmospheric on a TC250 on this forum. I don't know if that was a 2 or 3 hose setup.
    You can search for it.
  5. Trenchcoat85 Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Northern NorCal
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    '14 TE 310R
    Other Motorcycles:
    '85 shovel, '75 DT400, '97 XR400
    yeah... basically. it's catch-tank for the liquid oil; but it also acts like a condenser because it's a big, heat conducting metal surface.

    I've seen a report of fine internal rust in this area of the frame- kinda hard to imagine, but keep an eye open.
    yeah- no problem. This would be a slightly more complicated version of Darkside's suggestion; with the added benefit of condensing the vapor in the cooler frame and recovering the liquid.

    Do NOT route #6 in the valve cover though- the engine would not be vented then (assuming the frame is air tight).