Race Map 3 or JD Power Surge 6X

TE449. I have a couple ECUs. One is stock and one has the race map 3. The race map 3 runs much better but is still very hard to start cold. I bought the modified ecu second hand, and it is lacking a few items, such as shutting the bike off and running the cooling fan. It served its purpose while I waited on getting a replacement ECU (dont ask). Do I leave the stock ECU stock, and add the JD tuner, or do I get race map 3 installed? Like I said, my modified ecu has the map 3, and it is still very hard to start cold, stock ecu is impossible to start hot. Stock ecu has a nasty lean pop at hot, even with the map jumper installed. Bike has a FMF silencer, and the buterfly removed. I like the idea of leaving ECU stock, installing map jumper, and tuning to my liking with the JD Power Surge 6X. I hope to improve the starting issue with fine tuned mixtures. Comments?

Do both map three and JD. Take your stock one to the dealer and plead with them to put map 3 on it, or send it to zipty. The dealer will know map 3 as the full titanium akrapovic race map. If you want to leave your stock ecu stock, get the modified one flashed. That should replace the bogus programming.

Honestly I am a little tired of spending money on this bike. Is if really necessary to have race map 3 in place for the tuner? Does the tuner have enough enrichening with out the race map. The mod ecu has something went with it other than just a program change. It is from the BMW bike. I knew that when I bought it used.

I would see if your local dealer would throw you a bone and put the akrapovic map on there for free. If you bring the bike with the seat off and ecu un-strapped, they should be able to do it in 10 - 15 minutes. Map 3 is not necessary for the JD. But map 3 is a better starting point. I would also go through the stuff that Dangermouse detailed in his butterfly removal thread, including re-calibrating the TPS and "map shifting". Do that and you might not need the JD.

BTW, I was like you, I got tired of spending money on the bike. But I was even more tired of the bike flaming out and trying to kill me. So when a used JD came up in the classifieds, I jumped. Still flamed out, but not as much. Then when a used PCV and Autotune came up, I bought it right then and there, and sold the JD. I have to say the PCV was worth the investment. Haven't had a single flameout. And I have more low end than I can believe.

Thanks for the advice. To be clear, I am not having flameout issues. My bike has not flamed out in a long time. To resolve that I got it past 500 miles, which for whatever reason it ran much much better. I then ran with race map 3 and an FMF silencer. Bike was running perfectly. I removed the butterfly, and that ensured the bike did what I told it to do. All is good. Then it just started to start really hard. Starts like it is a flooded engine, I will describe it as having to hold the starter on and the engine is just about running but not really.Cracking the throttle made it worse. I then noticed that the bike was running hot, last two enduros it was complaining and boiling over. I just figured out that the ECU I was using (used), does not run the cooling fan. Verified this by plugging in a stock ECU and the fan comes right on. I knew this Modified ECU had problems, so this does not surprise me. I needed it in a pinch and the guy sold it to me cheap. Anyhow. I now have a stock ECU to program with map 3, or use it as is with the tuner. I would just put map 3 back in (ZIpty), but like I said, I am having issues with cold starting. So is my money better spent on the tuner, will this tuning allow me to fix the cranking mixture level, and aloow me to tune it to the map 3 fueling? That is the basic question. Where is my money better spent. I agree with the comment on the TPS, I am going to adjust both of those this weeked using a voltmeter and if that resolves the cold start issue, I will just use map 3. My question may not be able to be answered on a forum, once I adjust the TPS, if I still have a problem startign with map 3, I think I will know my answer. Love the 4 stroke power, but hate the BS that goes with it.

Given the funky code on the non-stock ECU, I would try to find a dealer to flash the stock one for free -- plus you'll get your fan back. If not, send it to Zip Ty and pay the $45, that's a lot cheaper than a JD Tuner. Since you are racing, though, why not sell the funky ECU and put a want ad on the classifieds here for a PCV? That's going to give you the best flexibility. PCV + Autotune makes for a different experience all together.

Map set 3 and PCV is the real world solution to your issue. Map 3 and JD if you are short on $$, the JD is cheaper.

Start with map3, go from there.

Well, it isnt mapping as far as my problem goes. I am thinking now it is tight valves. Need to check them.

Not too many people on the site have any kind of valve trouble with these bikes.
Them seem, by and large, bullet proof in the valves.
My own one is nearly at 140 hrs & still hasn't needed reshimming
You may be unlucky & might need work (perhaps it has had dirty air filters before) but not common.

Just for info - 9880sts was unlucky & didn't get his air filter locked into place correctly once. Dirt ruined the rings & he rebuilt it later down the track a bit, but all the valves & seats were fine...

My dealer sold his last TE449 a month ago and unlike mine that ran okay from day 1 this one had starting trouble too. In the end he worked on the values and it seems to have solved the problem on that bike. I can try find out what it was he did to the valves.

Yes. Please do. I'm interested in this.

'Values' or 'valves'?....

Oops ... VALVES!
I'm meeting up with him on Monday morning and will get the low down on "the last of the TE449s".

Ha ha
Cool.

Thanks Dangermouse for your detailed info on the KTM test loom to measure TPS voltage.
I ordered 1 today.
Do you recommend that I wait for it before removing the FBW throttle plate, or could I go ahead with that in the meanwhile?
I'm having my ECU re-mapped on Monday for the Full Akra Race map but would like to remove the butterfly before (I have the time tomorrow) - do you see a problem in that?

I checked the valves, the intake were about .007", upper spec is .004", so they were loose. The exhaust were a little tight, about .009", lower spec is .010" So although the exhaust is a little tight, I dont think it is the cause of my starting issue. Like I said, I over heated the bike. After seeing some sludge on the valve cover, it is oblious the head gasket is at least popped. I also started it with the radiator cap removed, and the antifreeze was just bubbling out like crazy. So looks like a gasket change, or worse.

Hi Cosmokenny, I took some pics of how I was told to bend hoses WITHOUT kinking them.



Choose a spring that has a slightly larger (or at least the same) outer diameter as that of the inside diameter of the hose that you need to bend. NOTE: the spring may not have a smaller diameter than the hose.



Preferably choose a spring with end rings/loops because springs slightly too large need to be pre-stretched a little. After stretching or if the ring does not need to be stretched cut the end rings/loops off.



Thread a nylon cord (cotton cord does not slide as easily) through one end of the spring and double it over.
Then feed the two lengths of cord through the hose intended for bending until the cord appears out the other end.
Then pull the two lengths of cord thereby pulling the spring into the hose, feeding it slowly as you go (I found lubricating the inside of the hose with a little oil helps).
Pull and feed the spring slowly into the hose until the spring is seated in the hose where it will be bent.



Insert an additional spring for each additional bend...