Hello, I can no dis-engage the clutch, by pulling the clutch lever. (update) this is TE 630. I was installing dynojet PCV on this weekend, finally got it all setup. But I think, when reinstalling the gas tank I incorrectly routed the clutch lever End result the motor now purrs. But when took the bike for a test, I almost got into a spill accident. it is then I realized that the clutch pull is no longer dis-engaging, I did not eve have time to switch to 2nd gear. Does anybody have a picture or suggestion of how the cable should be routed, or what else I have to look for ? (update 2). I had opened up clutch liquid reservoir, and there is some there just a thin layer on the bottom. Not sure what's enough and specifically what fluid to use. My shifting was never smooth. May be I had too little fluid there from start, and just now with accidental and slight house reposition -- it is showing the problem. Will read the threads of what 'mineral oil' to use there
Assuming you're talking about a 610 with a cable clutch? Just check it for kinks and make sure the end adjusters aren't set too tight or loose.
Sorry, I should have specified it is TE 630. There is a silver cable coming out of the clutch. Now since you pointed this out. I think TE 630 is hydraulic clutch. But last time I rode it the clutch was ok. So I assume it is my installing of gas tank back, still. Is there anything on the TE 630 I should be checking? It looks like I have to go through the pain of taking the gas tank off again ...
Yes the 630 has a hydraulic clutch. Nothing under the tank short of pinching the hose til it leaks should affect it. Check the level in the lever reservoir. Another possibility is a leaky slave piston seal. Did you lay the bike over to work on it? May need to bleed the clutch line.
Your mineral oil is low. Likely unrelated to your tank removal. Refill the reservoir, I used mineral oil, available at any drug store. Bleed it at the clutch slave cylinder like you would bleed your brakes, keep an eye on the reservoir level, as it will drain down after only 4 or 5 bleed cycles. Repeat until you have clean clear fluid out of the slave bleed nipple. Refill reservoir one last time, any extra will spill out when you put the rubber gasket/cover back in. Mine was leaking at the master cylinder and left me without a clutch midway through a 3000km trip. Refilled and bled it in a drugstore parking lot. Rebuilt the master when I got home. See if yours is wet with oil where the plunger goes into the MC by the lever. I've also heard the slave cylinders can leak, but I "think" mine was ok.
I do not see oil near my master cylinder. I am thinking therefore, that this makes one of the unlucky owners, who has a leaking slave clutch cylinder and who is out of warranty, of course. Is there a slave cylinder rebuild kit or manufacture part numbers I could refer to when looking for this? thx
7602racing.com , they make a replacement. Can't vouch for the effectiveness, but they are a forum sponsor.
Thank you bushva. Would you also know if this http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAGURA-JACK...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5669a2eae3&vxp=mtr would fit TE 630 ? (it costs slightly more but, I am concerned that I need to do more cylinder disassembly, if I am to replace one piston (and mechanics skills are already challenged with TE )
Nope, entirely different setup on a Husky. But this is a decent replacement if you can't get factory parts: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Oberon-Husqvarna-SMS-630-CLU-1500-Black-Clutch-Slave-Cylinder-/321245651120
