Oil Drainback Kit Install - TE 310R

[2wheeler]

Changed oil and put this nice looking piece on. (thanks Zip-Ty!)

Finger tightened the bolt with the factory o-ring on then touched it with a wrench. Once assembled had a little wiggle at the bolt/case connection.

I read some posts on the install. Do I have the preferred method here?


Add factory cap o-ring to filler bolt (done)
Apply blue Loctite to filler bolt threads
Replace banjo bolt washers with brass washers

 

[R_Little]

Oh, really?

i just put it on and it bleeds a little oil out. I thought it was where the hose is clamped to the barb.

Maybe it is the washers or the o-ring missing, or the lack of loctite on the threads?

 

[Johnrg]

2wheeler.... Yes. That should do it. I tried torquing it initially to see if it would hold when tightening and loosening the banjo and it needed Loctite so a bit of Loctite blue on 2 threads has kept it from loosening on my bike. I go by feel on tightening the banjo... tightening to where you can feel the washer crush and just where the hose barb wants to rotate. I had issues with the included washers as they had slight manufacturing burrs. There was confusion on the forum regarding leaking from the hose or the washers. My testing of various washers, showed the leaks came from the included washers. So I would suggest having a kit of washers for the banjo, sump drain and the rear sump plug. Copper works best. I zip tie the hose on. I prefer the all plastic ties as they wrap a hose more fully and do not leak (on my fuel petcocks either). I double up and replace at intervals. Just use what you like. It's relatively low pressure but you get pressure pulses pushing oil up there so eventually it will leak if not installed well. See thread for more... http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/zipty-2nd-gen-310-drain-back-kit.43598/page-5

 

[2wheeler]

Thanks guys. Will remove and add the Loctite and brass.

 

[Johnny Chevy]

Hey everyone,

first post so I'm not sure if anyone will see me replying to an older thread, but anyway I am thinking about doing the drain back kit for my 2013 TE310R and I have seen this link posted many times but it doesn't seem to work any more...thoughts?

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/zipty-2nd-gen-310-drain-back-kit.43598/page-5

 

[Johnrg]

Well it was a thread by an ex-employee. Ask any questions and I or others can help.

 

[Kenneth Webb]

Funny that this thread pops up today. I also have a problem with oil leaking around the drain back kit. I think on mine it is around the first washer, next to the case, but I'm not 100 percent sure. I am thinking about finding some gasket dressing to put on the washers. And, replace the washers at the same time. I run my bike on the road and quite bit oil finds it way out of there.

 

[Johnrg]

Funny that this thread pops up today. I also have a problem with oil leaking around the drain back kit. I think on mine it is around the first washer, next to the case, but I'm not 100 percent sure. I am thinking about finding some gasket dressing to put on the washers. And, replace the washers at the same time. I run my bike on the road and quite bit oil finds it way out of there.

It's the included steel washers that leak because they have imperfections/burrs (which I posted photos of long ago). Buy the same size in copper. Local auto parts have a size that will work though has a slightly larger OD for the banjo. I can dig up the exact washer size if needed or just use a micrometer for the exact size. A little larger OD but I have used them. Good copper crush washers will conform to that small contact area. I got a supply of the banjo washer and the rear sump as well as drain plug for about 10 full oil changes. Absolutely no leaking and I zip tie the hose as well.

 

[2wheeler]

Mine will get a little moist at the hose connection to the barb and on the banjo. I have 2 small ziptys on the hose. Perhaps I should try one large. Getting the small ziptys real tight is a bit awkward.

Here's the Copper Crush Washers John sized up.

14x18x1.5mm
13x18x1.5mm

 

[Buzybraza]

Thanks for the insight guys! I will try the copper washers. Should solve the oil seep my recirc kit does too.
The day I installed it, I thought to myself the washers should be "crushable" aluminum, but what do I know..... I did not think of copper but sounds like a better option..... I will report back when I can!

 

[Buzybraza]

washers are in, will report......

 

[RB7]

My buddy is a really good hydraulic mechanic. He says to take the used copper washers and pick them up with needle nose pliers and heat them with the flame from the burner on a natural gas stove at home until they change color. He says that only then are they reusable. He says if you don't do this, then you should use new washers.

 

[Buzybraza]

Thanks for the tip! But I will try and stay with new ones if possible :-)

 

[Buzybraza]

So here is the result after 100 hard and dusty miles in Big Bear.....

 

[Trenchcoat85]

Kinda looks like the hose is leaking more than the banjo.

 

[Johnrg]

Can you feel any oil residue when you wipe off the dust? In any case snugging down the crush washers and the zip tie should stop any leaking if that's what you are showing. Maybe just adhering to the parts if they were not cleaned well after install. I like to use a little contact cleaner after oil changes and fills.

 

[Buzybraza]

Kinda looks like the hose is leaking more than the banjo.

I agree, I think the hose is what is leaking now..... but it is not significant..

 

[14Husky310R]

Sorry to bump an old thread but is there any sort of instructions, I'm surprised for the cost of this it comes with 0 instructions for installation and that thread is erased which looked like a good resource.

Thanks for any help.

 

[Johnrg]

Here you go...

1) Pull the o-ring off your stock cap and reuse it on the base that screws into the case. Put a small amount of blue loctite on a few threads and torque to about 11-15nm.
2)Replace the rear sump plug with the replacement using the included crush washer.
Reroute the hose to the filler region and don't cut the hose short so you can zip tie it if you want to the frame.
3) Fill with 30-32OZ of oil (if you changed filter) and install the banjo making sure you have crush washers above and below. Just make it finger tight till you secure the hose.
4) Attach the hose and snug a zip tie down between the barbs snugly. Oil can seep if not snug.
5) Tighten the Banjo until the washers crush. Be careful as you don't want to overdo it. I can feel the wrench give a hair just as they crush. Hold onto the barb so the fitting does not jam against the oil line.

Notes:
The first batch of the kit came with steel banjo washers that leaked. You can see them in the first picture. I am hoping they are sending the new kits with copper crush washers. Use fresh copper washers when you change the oil. I buy 10 oil changes worth of the 3 types needed so they are on hand. Not easy sizes to find. I have the washer specs if needed or you can't match them locally.

One person commented on some anodizing on the threads of the rear plug. If so test fit and clean thread as necessary. Also that rear plug washer can hit the case surrounding it and bind causing a deformed washer and a bad seal. Carefully look and hold the washer in position as you snug up that plug.

For filling I found a small ss funnel at the kitchen department of the hardware. I attached a length of clear hose from an old camelback which inserts through the banjo.

 

[14Husky310R]

Here you go...

Hi Johnrg, thanks a lot for the instructions! you are a life saver.

Sorry for additional noob question, so to confirm the oil plug in the rear from picture below I will be capping it? No longer will a hose be attached to this area?

I will move that hose to the filler plug as shown in your second picture?

What was the purpose of this hose? it looks like it was directing towards the gas tank?