No Spark, need some help

2008 Husky TXC 250
So we were at a double header race a couple weekends ago and the bike runs great Saturday, however Sunday it won't start. I tear into it to try to get my son to the starting line and find it is getting no spark.. Finally I just sent him out on my bike. So after going through the manual and searching on here I am still puzzled. The coil reading were coming up a bit off so I bought a new coil. It didn't change anything.

Here are the readings:
Primary Winding Resistance - Manual states 4.5 Ohms +/- 15% - My Readings 0.5 to 0.8 ohms. This seems off, but both new and old coils read the same
Secondary Winding Resistance - Manual = 5KOhms +/- 20% - My Reading 5.4KOhms
Terminal Cap resistance - Manual =4.5 to 5.5 Kohms - My Readings 5.01Kohms
Exciter - Black-Red and Red-White - Manual = 12.7 ohms +/- 15% - My readings 14 ohms
Charge - Yellow and white wires - Manual = 0.16 ohms +/- 15% - Mine = .5 ohms
Lamp - Yellow and ground - Manual = 0.65 ohms - Mine 0.8 ohms

Any input? Where do I go from here?

• do you have 12 volts to the coil? (look for frayed or broken wires) Use a voltmeter.

• how are the coil grounds? (look for frayed or broken wires)

• did you do anything to the bike between Saturday and Sunday?

• unplug the kill button.

• how is your spark plug? water or gas inside the cylinder or outside?

• how is your battery and condenser? (capacitor- kinda hard to measure in Farads)

• clutch safety switch? bypass maybe

Your resistance measurements seem fine. (btw, betcha your meter shows 0.5-0.8 ohms with the leads shorted together). But I don't see where you measured the pick up coil (trigger- 100 ohms); also make measurements with the circuit unplugged unless specified.

Thanks for the response Trenchcoat.
All wires seem to be just fine.
How would I check for 12v to the coil? While turning it over?
Nothing was done Saturday to Sunday.
Kill button was one of my first checks. Tested functional at the wire to the cdi.
Spark plug was replaced to rule that out.
Battery is good and still turns the motor over just fine.
I don't know how to test the condenser. Farads? My multimeter probably won't test that.
Did the TXCs have the clutch safety switch? Mine does not.
Pickup Coil... the manual has a good test but says it is for only the TE and SMR models. But to check resistance between the Green wire and the white wire. Reading should be 100 ohms. Does this apply to the TXC as well? Seems odd as the pickup Coil has the green wire and a red wire. The white goes to the stator.

Primary coil resistance reading are way too low. This will kill the spark.

Paw Paw

The brand new coil spec'd out exactly the same. Seems odd, but maybe it is bad too?

I'm curious also. I have a 2009 510txc in the exact same boat right now. I also purchased new coil and it read the same as old one. Electrical is not my strong field at all. My bike does have a clutch safety switch but they are simple to cut outta the system. Do u have and different readings or results by kick-starting vs electric? My bike was great one afternoon ,next day absolutely no spark.

I have a pulsar or pickup Coil on order. I will let you know if this solves this it.
http://www.rickystator.com/product/stators/ktm/ktm-pickup-coil-most-dirtbikes

sounds good- what did your old pick up measure out to be? they usually don't fail overnight when not riding.

btw, I wanna reemphasize this: resistance is measured with everything unplugged from the component.... usually.

good luck.

The old pickup shows no continuity, open. Pretty sure it is bad.

The pulsar Coil is replaced and the bike runs again! Thank you all for your help.

got any pictures, advice, hints, part numbers, costs for anybody reading this 5 years from now? You're the expert now.

did you compare resistance measurements of the old pick up (open, I guess) and the new?

Sorry no pictures. The pulsar Coil was the one linked above from RickyStator.com. The two leads (green and red) on the original showed open with a resistance check. The new one measure right around 100 ohms lead to lead. It is pretty much a bolt it in and solder and heat shrink the leads and go process.