Hey everyone, Just picked myself up a fairly used '11 630, and have been discovering an unfortunate laundry list of issues that weren't apparent before I did the exchange of cash. It's a sham, because the price was decent and the mod list was pretty much everything I could hope for; Leo Vince 2-1-2 exhaust, power commander V, steering dampener, and a few add-on trinkets to make it more appealing. Managed to get a pretty fantastic 20-30km ride the first day before things started going downhill. An incredibly fun machine, and not too much different from my kawi klx250sf in the general feel, just more in basically every area. So the fault list thus far: Blinking neutral light when running (engine code of some sort, I'd assume high temp as the coolant was low) Pinhole coolant leak (already sent with) Hard starting issue (may be battery related; need a new one to test out) And finally clutch not releasing Anyway, on the trip home while stuck in traffic, I had the neutral light start blinking; get home and start going down the iBeat rabbit hole. Order up parts to put a cable together, and start fighting to get a VM running on my laptop. Meantime, I figure I can still ride around when I discover the clutch isn't releasing properly. Kind of a pain, considering the previous owner had already replaced the clutch slave for the same problem. So I blow the slave apart and inspect it, no obvious signs of blow-by on the o-ring, but hop online and order a few x-rings to test out on the slave piston. I'll try installing those tonight, and see if that corrects anything, otherwise it's time to dismantle the master and check for anything telltale up top. So I finally get my iBeat running, through together a cable following the various iBeat threads, and plug into my diagnostic port. Turn the key, and the instrument cluster goes dead; no lights, no response from the controls (no pump prime, nothing) but the parking light up front, the taillight and the license plate lights are all on... So far this has been an adventure in frustration. I'm generally pretty capable with troubleshooting and repair,b it this is starting to grind on my nerves. If anyone has some suggestions for what to look at for either the dash/electronics kicking out, or the clutch issue, I'd appreciate it. Thanks, and sorry for the essay
Had a similar electrical problem and a new main fuse fixed it. Don't know why, as the old fuse looked and tested fine, but it still fixed it. Worth a try.
Share how you wired up the ibeat cable? I just made one as well, and it works, so I can check your work if you like, so you can rule that out.
Main fuse was shot; passed the visual but the multimeter showed the truth. Now I'm back to hard starting and replacing the battery. Attached is a picture of the pin out I used, and a picture of the wire to obd plug. Hopefully you can spy something I did wrong
It has nothing to do with Apple. It's a software package used to tune fuel injected bikes. Do a search and you will learn much.
Oh man, so I tackled starting today. Threw in a new, big fat battery to grunt past the starting issue, and managed to get it fired up. Sweet! Fired to life, then discovered this new novelty; coolant literally leaking out of the exhaust cans. I've never seen something like this before. Anyone have any ideas?
I'm assuming this is a blown head gasket, or (hopefully not) a cracked block. I can't think of how else coolant is getting in there. Its just puzzling to see actual drops of coolant come out of the cans
That looks like what happened to me several weeks ago. On mine, the coolant was mixed with oil. Prior to the massive leakage, the symptom was leaking coolant. I had to refill the radiator every other day. Anyway, the problem on mine was corroded water pump shaft. Replaced the water pump shaft and bike's been running fine.
I'm guessing the corroded waterpump is definitely a high likelihood of failure here... thanks guys! May be another problem sorted out
So the oil was coolant-y and the coolant was oily; any concerns on survivability of the engine after this? I don't know how long it's been running leaking like this. Overheating was probably an issue as well
Okay, been trying to get this waterpump off, but the nut has rusted and fused to the end of the shaft. Is there a way to pull the entire assembly out without removing the nut?
So annoyance got the better of me and I just yanked the whole assembly out; pretty bad corrosion along the shaft, the impeller and obviously the nut. Now I have a new question for you gurus; do I need to pull the valve cover off to reinstall the pump? I know the gear dropped down when I pulled the pump shaft, but will that throw the timing off?
Repair manual is available free from Husqvarnaoutlet.com It'll have instructions on removal and install of water pump and how to check your timing. Valve cover should come off.
Please read this thread in detail...start to finish. If I am understanding you correctly this should help you: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/630-water-pump-re-seal-details-pics.21750/#post-196770 So yeah- though I've not crossed this road myself removing the pump housing does affect the tension of the chain, which can affect the positioning (which "click") the automatic chain tensioner is at. So, there will be several things to check very carefully (not suggesting you're in a bad spot, necessarily, just that you want to proceed with caution and thoroughness.)
Damn, yep, looks like I need to pull it all apart; the entire waterpump shaft came out, and the timing gear dropped down about 2cm. I'll have to throw the bike in the elevator and pull the top off in my apartment
So I've had a chance to pull the bike upstairs, and have stripped the head apart; it takes a looooong time for parts for this bike to show up in Canada, apparently. Noticed a few things, like the head cover's gasket was creased, and the paint on the head was flaking off on the inside, but everything has gone surprisingly smoothly. Unfortunatel, I realised that when I pulled the waterpump assembly out I don't really have a reliable way of knowing if the timing gears have moved any teeth; is there a way to check piston TDC without removing the entire cylinder head from the engine? Some pics for fun
