TE/TC My One Fiddy

Every once in a while, even we stupid dirt biker guys do something smart.

I can understand those who might doubt me for using copper for cylinder head inserts.
But copper is an excellent conductor of heat, it has a much higher thermal conductivity than aluminum, Cu is 401K compared to Al which is 237K.
Aluminum is able to radiate heat into air better than copper only because of its lower density but when used with liquid cooling copper allows heat to pass through it quicker.

The reason you don’t see many copper heads is most likely cost, the copper material I used was industrial grade C10100 at $62 per piece where the aluminum grade 7075-T651 was $16 per piece.

I don't doubt you, just curious. You can't argue with the Bling Factor!

I gotta imagine weight is a factor, too. sho' is pretty tho.

Yes, the copper one is 3 times the weight of the aluminum one, but really doesn't add much additional weight to the engine.
Using an accurate scale at the shop the copper insert weighed in at .6325lb or 10.12oz compared to the aluminum insert weight of .199lb or 3.184oz so I'm only adding 7oz. :-)

Hmmm... I wonder if that will dampen some vibration. Could be a nice albeit unintended side-effect.

Hey Kevin,

A few things I had to do to install the Intelajet on the Air Striker.
The Keihin’s body is slightly longer from the bore to the bottom than the stock Mikuni and its drain plug is closer to the engine cases so I couldn’t install a bigger drain plug for the Intelajet gas supply.

I welded this post a little off center from the bottom of the bowl to run the gas line, plenty of clearance now with this setup.

To mount the air - fuel manifold where I did on the carburetor body I had to first cut a small flat spot face so the manifold could seat correctly.
I then had to add a short spacer to extend the manifold up so the barbed fittings would clear the body.
It looks to be a good solid setup but I won’t know how well everything will work until spring.

To finish off the install I made a small block to mount the mixing adjustment screw to the frame.

excellent JB very well thought out and executed very impressive my friend. mreeep mreeep!

Cleaned and polished the power valve parts.
Yamalube is molybdenum disulfide base high pressure grease, good stuff.

Sent the piston out to get coated and should have it back and the bike reassembled this week.

Thanks for the pics JB. Were you seeing any issues before doing this or was it done as a precaution while you were in there?

The power valve was working fine the last time I rode the bike.
Removing the carbon buildup is just preventive maintenance and the polishing was done with a buffing wheel and some rouge.

I checked the X distance before removing the cylinder and the piston was .009 below top at TDC. A little out of tolerance, manual says .0039
Also the Z distance was about .02 off.
I have two complete sets of base gaskets for reassembly when the piston gets here.

I’ll be replacing the stock BR9E-CMVX with these.
Two heat ranges to choose from.







In Dust We Trust

Curious about the price difference, bend over when you buy the oem plug

I run a cheap 2 dollar BR8EZ ngk in both my TE 300 and TC 125 no problems I just starting using the Moose Racing plugs which cross over to the same number as the NGK yes I know the TE is to use a 7 plug and the TC is to use a 9 plug but both run perfect with a 8 plug

The stock NGK BR9E-CMVX is a platinum center wire plug, the NGK R7376-9 is a fine center wire iridium plug.
I know it's a little over kill but something I wanted to try.
NGK plug numbers heat rate rises as the part number goes down, a #7 plug might be too hot to run even on a stock 150.
With the higher compression on the heads and carb modifications I thought the R7376-10 would be a safer plug to start with.

These plugs are even more expensive than stock.
The Japanese have a way of getting all of my money out of me.



(And another round eye bites the dust)


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zb1HBLMMIzk

Some might find this interesting.

I had Line-2-Line apply their APC (Slick +) to the piston.
They build up this coating on the skirt to an almost interference fit to the cylinder bore.
You then slowly break-in the piston, wearing down or burnishing the coating until she runs normal.
I also had them apply their “Thermal Barrier” a ceramic coating to the piston top.


More information can be found on their web site.
https://www.line2linecoatings.com/