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Leo Vince full titanium exhaust installation problem - TE630

alpha26

Husqvarna
AA Class
I am having a problem in installing the Leo Vince full titanium system for my 2011 TE630.

It is to do with the Leo Vince supplied flanges "B" ( Image 1). the header pipe slips into one end, and the other end go into the exhaust port of the engine.

Image 1.JPG

It appears that where the flange enter the exhaust port, it is longer than the original Husky header pipe (Image 2 & 3).

Image 2.jpg
Image 3.JPG

So when I insert the flange into the exhaust port, it sticks out too much, and I can't screw them all the way in ( Image 4 & 5).

Image 4.jPGImage 5.JPG

The header pipe can only enter the flange one way, as the other end is narrower. Since a few people on Cafe Husky has sucessfully installed this exhaust system. I would be very grateful if anyone can tell me what I have done wrong.
 
Found this picture of a Leo single with the Safari brace fix. I just opened my Leo full single box to take a look and I have the same bushings and flanges as you.

brace1-jpg.11652
 
I remember installing my Leo and running into some confusion there as well. Let me see if I don't have a pic of the header connection.

Here you go:

IMG_1599.JPG


Those are the Leo flanges bolted into place before hooking up the header pipes. I just happened to be taking a photo of the wiring harness that was starting to melt. For whatever reason, Husky saw fit to run wiring right between the header pipes. DUH.

Here's my fix for that:

IMG_1600.JPG


Putting on that new exhaust is a good opportunity to shield that wiring.
 
Thanks for pointing out the wiring issue. Not something I'd have noticed until the melting was well underway.
 
Hi jtemple & KLOC

Thanks for the picrtures, and pointing out the wiring issue, I will definately shield it.

However, I notice that the Leo Vince flange that you bolted on also has the same problem - it doesn't go all the way into the exhaust port. It sticks out a bit, and is not mounted flush. It appears that it will work, but not as secured as it should. If I insert the flange the other way, it fits perfectly - just like the original Husky exhaust. It should look like this:

IMG_7816.JPG

But if I mount that way, the header pipe won't go in as it is narrower in the other end. I think there is a design or machining fault from Leo Vince.

Image 7.jpg

Here is another piture that show the machining fault. The header pipe should enter the other end:

IMG_7812.JPG

I am surprised that so far no-one has pointed it out.
 
As long as everything seals up without leaks, it's not necessary for the flange to be touching the port.
 
The space between the flange and the exhaust port is necessary to allow the springs to be attached the flanges
Also, the offset of flange from the port bosses ensures that the bushing is pushed all the way into the exhaust port and forms a good seal.

Suppose you could install the bushing as you propose, but due to subtle casting and/or machining differences the bushing was "short". The result would be a leaking exhaust and eventual damage.

I'm not a fan of exposed threads, but it is what it is.
 
The 630 runs lean on the top end with the Leo single and you should add a JD tuner to keep the engine running with optimum fuel metering and minimizing any overheat issues at higher rpm's.
 
The 630 runs lean on the top end with the Leo single and you should add a JD tuner to keep the engine running with optimum fuel metering and minimizing any overheat issues at higher rpm's.

+1. You'll be amazed at the transformation after installing the JD tuner. Husky should've built the bikes with the Leo system already in place.
 
Thanks for the advices. I ordered a JD tuner last night. In the mean time, I took my bike to my Husky dealer, the technician took it for a ride and used their factory software to add more fuel. I think he went as far as 107.5% at high rpm. The bike is running very well now. I wonder if this ratio need to be brought back down once I installed the JD tuner. Does anyone know what ratio does JD tuner expect the bike to be set at ?

I bought the Leo Vince exhaust system mainly for weight saving. For me, the stock TE630 has more than enough power for off-road adventure riding. Unfortunately, the Leo exhaust is much more noisier than stock pipes, and this can tired you out in long trips. I only just noticed that the Leo Vince muffler has fine print stamped " Not for road use". I just hope that Australian police won't notice it if and when I get stopped.
 
Thanks for the advices. I ordered a JD tuner last night. In the mean time, I took my bike to my Husky dealer, the technician took it for a ride and used their factory software to add more fuel. I think he went as far as 107.5% at high rpm. The bike is running very well now. I wonder if this ratio need to be brought back down once I installed the JD tuner. Does anyone know what ratio does JD tuner expect the bike to be set at ?

I bought the Leo Vince exhaust system mainly for weight saving. For me, the stock TE630 has more than enough power for off-road adventure riding. Unfortunately, the Leo exhaust is much more noisier than stock pipes, and this can tired you out in long trips. I only just noticed that the Leo Vince muffler has fine print stamped " Not for road use". I just hope that Australian police won't notice it if and when I get stopped.
JD recommends setting the iBeat back to 100% across the board.

The Leo is louder than stock, but I run mine without the db killer insert. I'm not sure how it sounds with that in. I started to put mine in when I first installed it, but the fit was very tight. I had a feeling that once I tapped it in there, I wasn't going to be able to get it out. So, I left it out and never looked back.

Just about every aftermarket exhaust says "not for road use" on it. The only one for the 630 that I know of that's street legal are the Arrow slipons.
 
So today I thought I would install my new Leo Full Ti on my SM630.

I started at the business end - the two inner alen key bolts on the headers - and ended there:confused::confused:
Both the two inner alen key bolts are partially obscured by the frame which makes removing the stock headers nigh impossible.

The only way that I can see of accessing those inner bolts is with a really chopped down alen key and getting at them from the sides of the engine

How did you guys who have done the Full Leo Ti install get to thoses bolts ?
 
So today I thought I would install my new Leo Full Ti on my SM630.

I started at the business end - the two inner alen key bolts on the headers - and ended there:confused::confused:
Both the two inner alen key bolts are partially obscured by the frame which makes removing the stock headers nigh impossible.

The only way that I can see of accessing those inner bolts is with a really chopped down alen key and getting at them from the sides of the engine

How did you guys who have done the Full Leo Ti install get to thoses bolts ?
I can't remember exactly how I did it. It was either with a round-headed allen key, or a really long t-handled one.
 
Yes, a long rounded head allen key should do the job. There isn't a lot of room to work with.
 
I cut an allen wrench to the appropriate length with a dremel.

IMAG0473.jpg


IMAG0403.jpg





Had to use a dremel on the skid plate also for clearance.

IMAG0277.jpg
 
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