TE/TC lectron/SC on te150 thoughts

Want to try either carb on my 17 150. Any experiences with carbs on small bore? I read a lot of experiences on 250/300 but no small 2s.

The Lectron will work great on the TE150. Eliminated elevation related jetting issues. Once set, forget it. Runs clean everywhere. If you don't mind spending time jetting then it probably isn't worth the extra money. Check out Darin's TE150 thread for solutions for the stock Mikuni. I personally like the fuel economy and set and forget nature. Ride a ton of extreme elevation changes so it is definitely worth it to me.

This is the thread to watch:

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/17-te-150.85055/

Darin goes into pretty detailed jetting fixes and adjustments for the stock Mikuni.

Power valve adjustment makes a definite difference with the stock carb jetting. Not so much of an issue with the Lectron.

i ride 0-1500ft so elevation is a not a problem just don't want to have to rejet for weather. We ride from 30 degrees to 95 and humid and i just want to try one for the fuel mileage gains also. I plan on head mods also to gain a little more low end even if I have to mix race gas.

Im gonna try one out, darins carb was great but i want to be able to compare.

Lectron or Smart Carb?

Here is my two cents.

If you want to ride and not have to adjust much.... Go Lectron.

Lectron is a good crisp clean running carb.

I owned one but I race and need every once of performance I can get. I had a 38 but I lost bottom end.

In order for me to match what I'm running. I would have to combine a 36 Lectron with a 40 Lectron. I can't modify it with the metering rod set up. Plus, it is too much $ to just go in and carve on. You do something wrong and it ends up in trash can.

The stock carb after looking at it is set up odd. Like they just carbon copied the YZ 125 carb and bolted it on. It is designed more for motocross.

Not sure if they did this for emissions? Years, ago they had seize issues? Whom knows.

Here are the issues with existing bike and stock carb.

First, the air box is restrictive. Gotta add air.

The old Italian Husky's used a cheap mass produced TMXX V1 carb. Carb was finicky.

On this bike they are equipped with a better one TMXX V2. Which is a good thing.

Next, the needle is a real slow taper, than bam there is an abrupt hit, but doesn't let enough gains, still on top end.

Also, the slide is a # 4 and needs to be increased to a 5. Makes bike load up on single track. But going to 5 slide you have to rejet for extra air.

Then you need to adjust float height or you loose tons of fuel.

Powervalve springs and adjustment is a key factor. You can think the carb is off, but it also is the powervalve tuning.

What is the fix? Well, that's lil complicated cause the needle for the fix is currently out of stock.

Will the make them? Prob not, unless I throw some money at it to get them to produce them in numbers and have you guys re imburse me. Don't think the volume is there.

I have a few needles left on hand. Couple I'm keeping.

But also, I don't want my time eaten up in carb business. Mon - Fri I work 60 hours week and then work weekends at home. Hard to get bike time.

Currently, I ran out of time tuning another carb and slide combo that would be more available for you. I am not there yet cause winter hit.

So, what would be the fix? Well, for $150 bux you would send your carb off with instructions to a company to have carb and slide modified. Then get a needle for $10-$20 bux.

A few people im helping would then have their machined carb sent to me and I would finish maching it, polishing it, modifying your intake, and drilling some precise holes. But that's an added 4 hours.

Now, you have to look at what is coming....... What's coming is the slow death of the carb.

The future is fuel injection and will be done, Euro compliance first. Might be another year of carbs for US? But they might just do it and be done with it. So injection is for sure just when over in states?

So carb business is toast. Just matter of years. Oh they'll sell few here and there but carb is dying.

What future is: Fuel injection that's going to run clean, crisp, efficient.
If you want any added performance, it is tied to the whole electronic system and you'll buy a tuner.

Be too expensive to revert back to carb because you'll need cost of older electronic system plus ecu.

My thoughts, etc.... Grab what you can and get what works. Lectron, Apt, Keihin or Mikuni.

Lots of interesting research and testing going on in the world right now. I think if you summed them all up you would find that if the F/A ratio is just right and fully atomized it doesn't matter how it got there the power will be maximized(removing the variables of demand and standing waves in the intake and exhaust of a 2T). The standard carb like the current Mikuni gives you control over more areas of the throttle opening. It is just up to the owner to find those perfect settings for the particular environmental conditions. I don't think the metering rod carbs offer much of an advantage when perfectly set over the perfectly adjusted carb, they just make it easier to maintain a fairly high level of carburation over a broader spectrum without fine tuning. That is good enough for me but probably not if I was trying to race at an A level or higher where you want every advantage you can get.

The FI change is going to happen so if you don't like the idea you should hang onto your current bike. I believe that just like 4T's once the kinks are worked out and it is deemed reliable with very little weight penalty over any current E-start bike, you will want the ease of riding and the ability to make changes with just the click of a mouse. The basic 2T bike will still be a fairly simple platform that we can all work on and rebuild quickly and cheaply. Even with the advent of DI, the basic moving parts aren't going to change a great deal. The great thing is that there will always be older models available for what ever generation of dirt bike you like. JMO

Have a Happy Holidays and a Great New Year!

my bad, the lectron. http://slavensracing.com/shop/slavens-mule-hv-lectron-17/

Thanks for the replies! Walt do you have any experience with smart carb?

Yes, I have one that you can try. It is completely up to date and was serviced and upgraded by Corey early last summer. I have had trouble making it work both on the bottom and the top at +10K'. I don't think it was a good match for my 165. Where I ride the 165 likes really lean small throttle openings and without the additional, large opening fueling circuit like the Lectron has the SC tends to run really lean at large openings at those settings. I can get it set at 4K' at the house and it works everywhere and rips. It really struggles when I get at the upper elevations in the same ride, requiring large changes and was tough to get it to work both top and bottom.

I haven't spent much time with it on the 150. None on my TE150. This goes back to my wanting a carb to work with little to no adjustments required by the rider after initial setup. That said the SC is the easiest carb to adjust bar none. Also Corey provides top notch customer service. My gut feeling is that at your elevations and dealing with mostly humidity and temperature changes the SC should be a good fit. Any minor tweaks are just a 5 second adjustment. I have read where there are a few new KTM SX 150 riders that are having great success with the SC. Essentially they are mostly riding under your type of conditions. If you want to try the carb, send me a PM and then you should send Corey an e-mail so he can give you a starting point with the Q-6 rod that he has developed for the small bores. That is what is in the carb right now but it won't be anywhere close to where it needs to be set for you.

Thanks Walt pm sent

"Also, the slide is a # 4 and needs to be increased to a 5. Makes bike load up on single track. But going to 5 slide you have to rejet for extra air"
Exactly my problem no matter how I jet, tried all jd stuff and all stock stuff and its still not clean off idle will load up in tight technical stuff. I imagine on bigger bikes like 250/300 its not a problem but with a small bore it needs to be cleaner.

I was told on the 250 / 300s the best carb mod to sort them out is to file the slide on the reed side where the small cut out is larger to a 8mm wide 2mm deep size and this is supposed to make a whole world of difference to the idle and just off it area ! idle will go up big time with the mod and the idle screw will need backing out a fair bit,
If you have a spare slide try it you may finally get the jetting/carb working as they should.

You can send your 4 slide up to Rob @ RB designs and he can cut it to a 5 for like $15.