So I have ventured in to check and adjust my new (to me) TE610 valves. Just over 10 000km on the clock and possibly previously only done at 1000km. Now I must say I have been spoiled for some time now with my penchant for BMW boxers and their ease of self service so this has been quite a frustrating mission initially just get to the valves and then to adjust ... I wonder whether Husky mechanics have a few digits amputated to help Also the gap is really tiny and the feeler guage really flimsy thin (I did trim it a bit!). My question is - is there a difference in setting them using the 'straw/screwdriver in plughole TDC method' and the Dave Hopkins 'forget about TDC get it on the cam lobe method'? The adjusters seem to be in a different position when doing it either way?? I cannot find a definitive description or tutorial. At this stage I have opted for what I understand and hope is the correct Dave Hopkins method but would be interested in other inputs.
If by on the cam lobe you mean off the cam lobe that is a perfectly acceptable way to set valves. Just make sure the rocker is (almost) contacting the cam at the opposite end of the lobe point and you will be setting the gap correctly. Valve lash is merely the gap between the cam and the rocker/valve. You just need to be at the smallest point on the cam. TDC/compression is one way to ensure you are.
This is how Hopkins explains it on Thumpertalk referring to older TE's and KTM): "Please please stop this TDC insanity! TDC is crank position! Crank spins twice cam speed so it is NOT possable to just find TDC and adjust the valves, will it is but the odds of it working are exactly 50/50 and considering that if you adjust on the wrong TDC its probubly going to bend 4 valves when you hit the starter I don't consider those good odds! BIke on a stand, trans in 6th gear, hold the manual compression release in by hand so the engine can turn over, both valve covers off, righthand on the rear tire, left on the compression release, roll the wheel in forward direction until the intake valves open, then close, now with a large screw driver accross the swing arm and against the outter end of the spokes lever it back until the ex valve just starts to open, use the screw driver across the top of the swing arm to block the wheel from rolling forward (its in the "Intake Closing mode but we are rotating backwards). At this point the exhaust side is in the center of the heal of the cam, adjust exhaust to .002". Rotate the wheel again, same process except we want to get it to where the exhaust valve is opening and the screw drive needs to be under the swing arm as we are at "Exhaust opening" mode and the engine wants to roll backwards" another version: 'Intake valves; (carburetor side of the engine) Transmission in top gear, rear wheel off the ground, if you have a helper one can watch the valves and hold the manual compression release while the other rotates the engine with the rear wheel. Rotate the engine gently with the wheel to locate the point where the exhaust valve starts to open then rotate very gently until the exhaust valves are 1/2 way open (open is down)! Minor frustration, we are now fighting against the valve spring which wants to roll the engine back, so to stop it get your largest screwdriver, slide it thru the spoke of the rear wheel adjacent to the swing arm to lever the wheel/engine back or forward to the correct spot. At this “exhausts ½ open” point the Intakes are on Center of the Heal of the Cam. Proceed to adjust. Exhaust valves; (front side of the engine) As above, except, locate the point where the intake valves have opened (open is down) and are 1/2 way closed (engine rotating forward). As the intake is closing the engine will want roll forward PAST the ½ way point and the lash in the transmission and chain will make it so you can not stop the engine, so let it go just past, then roll the wheel backwards and secure it with the screwdriver or bar again. Now proceed to adjust the Exhausts. ALWAYS! ALL 4 STROKE ENGINES: With the engine rotating its correct direction the exhaust is adjusted when the intake is closing and the intake is adjusted when the exhaust is opening! "
Boy I'm glad I have a 630. So easy to align timing mark, check valves and replace shims. No special tools required. _
No special tools needed on the 610, no shims and no need to pull any cover! I would say seems considerably easier than the 630.
Yes as I understand it the valves that are being set are the ones off the lobe while the others are on. eg you get the exhausts on the lobe and set the intake and visa versa.
Ok so buttoned it all up and she runs SWEET! They had never been set in over 10 000 km and I could not get the 002 feeler guage into them they were so tight I am pleased as the new owner that I have done this bonding with the new Hussy Having already done the PU and caterectomy I now also fitted a JDT I picked up for a good price ... and so am now looking forward to the proper test ride ....
Sounds like you didn't do it wrong, but you might have. Just being on one lobe vs the other isn't good enough, as there is overlap between exhaust and intake. Basically part of the cam will be closing the exhaust while it opens the intakes. You CAN NOT set it here. When doing car motors (considerably more valves) I simply spin the lobe through the rotation, a bit passed closed, then jiggle the rocker. You should have some freedom (lash). It'll be safe to now set the valves. Otherwise spin the lobe so it is pointing completely away from the valve (you'll be on the back of the lobe). The only advantage to setting TDC/Compression is if you do it properly, you don't have to spin the cam, since both valves are guaranteed closed at this point and not near an opening sequence.
