• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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L/C 430 right crank bearing

oldbikedude

oldbikedude

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Hello, the right crank bearing on my 88 430 says skf 3205 c3 on it. Does anyone know of a comparable replacement. I need a referance on a top quality replacement Manufacturer name & bearing #. There are so many letter nomenclatures on other manufacturers bearings, I don't want to buy the wrong thing. I can find the exact replacement but I'm looking to find a great deal cause funds are tight. With that said I don't want to buy a cheepo that woun't last. Thanks folks.
 
Might give George a call, 1 714 540-2920.

He will likely have your answer and might have the bearing but the price of quality bearings from trusted sources is not going to be cheap relative to inexpensive options you may come across.

Good luck
 
Thanks glangston, "the price of quality bearings from trusted sources is not going to be cheap relative to inexpensive options you may come across" thats why I want the info so I can shop for myself & save some cash.
 
Stormer, I know what the c3 & 2rs stands for but what does the BTN & the J stand for? Who's #'s are they (what manufacturer)?
 
If you click on the bearing description it will take you to bearing king website which is where I buy most of my bearings, the quote price was for a Chinese bearing, about double for SKF.
 
Yeah, I did that. Thanks for your input. The "Chinese" thing scares me.....not so sure about the quality of that one. The link is informative though.
 
Know the feeling about the Chinese thing, just got my latest acquisition running, a 360 auto and shes smoking, drive side oil seal gone, if I go that far inside an engine it seems prudent to replace the mains. Is the £30 saving worth it, definitely not if I am keeping her.
 
i would stay away from any chinese bearings. go with a european or american bearing manufacturer. SKF,FAFNER,FAG or TORRINGTON would be your best bet for quality. iwent thru this crap last winter with snowmobile stuff. the factory stuff was PEER (chinese garbage). $9.00 to replace. i went with the $49.00 SKF bearing. much better quality. with bearings you truely do get what you pay for. just my 2 cents.
 
wrx said:
i would stay away from any chinese bearings. go with a european or american bearing manufacturer. SKF,FAFNER,FAG or TORRINGTON would be your best bet for quality. iwent thru this crap last winter with snowmobile stuff. the factory stuff was PEER (chinese garbage). $9.00 to replace. i went with the $49.00 SKF bearing. much better quality. with bearings you truely do get what you pay for. just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...

Amen! The Chinese stuff is JUNK! I just ordered new swing arm bearings and head bearings and some kick and idler bearings from tri-triophy (Dave Pratt) on ebay. The bearings were all from U.S.A. or Germany And were very reasonable on price.
 
NSK make this bearing too. Don't use one with plastic cages for the bearings. Specify a steel cage and C3 rating when you order - or you may end up doing it again sooner than you would like!
Andy
 
3205 and 5205 seem to be the same the thing missing is the maximum capacity which is generally designated with an M. It might be possible by 87 or 88 they stopped using the metal caged maximum capacity (more balls and a loading slot) but I use one. Exactly where things come from has been allowed to become rather un marked in a lot of ways or just assembled in place a from world components. I got mine frim ebaitmus that and bdi are linked in the following post. The mrc one isn't marked as to origion, I was told it was usa but later I got some other bearings and the mrc was called domestic and they had an economy import but I took out the mrc one and it came form some island in the pacific.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/ho...-bearing-near-the-ignition.16708/#post-146447

If you get an M it will most likely be a c3 which I believe is just a tiny bit bigger, good for putting in cases that expand and it also is a continious duty electric motor rating. Though more detail can be researched if one chooses.
 
Thanks guys, I do have the metal cage with the loading slot. I'll prob. go with SKF since thats what was in it. Thought I might save some money if I could but I think I don't wan't to make a mistake pinching pennies.
 
Well, here's an update. Bearings belts & chains ordered me a bearing. I was very specific in telling them I need a SKF max cap. with 14 balls per row, the fill slot & metal cage. When it arrived it was 13balls, with plastic cage. I think they will be keeping that one. Today I spoke with an engineer at SKF & they assured me they still make the bearing I need & they told me there is a "E" in the bearing I.D.(3205 E/c3) my original had no "E". This new bearing should be here by Friday. I will update you all when I get it. Oh, it cost $101 USD.
 
George rebuilt 2 engines with new FAG mains. The engines failed at this part...they were convincing fakes. You not only have to buy quality but keep track of your suppliers to sort out where the fakes are coming from.
 
Good advice glangston! It's crazy how much effort is put into fakes....they are trying to make easy money & screwing people over at the same time.
 
I keep all the "old bike" bearings for reference. ALL of my OEM 81-83 bearings are SKF 14 ball steel cages with the loading slot. The "new exact replacement" I have waiting for my current 500 build is a 9 ball. Yuck, glad I found this thread. It does say USA on it, but 9 balls? Really? I don't think so!
 
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