Kicker shaft broke off 010 TC250

Has anyone replaced this small stub shaft that the kick lever attaches to on the outside of the engine?

It appears that only the outside case on the right side casing needs removing but can someone confirm the procedure needed to replace the shaft?

Been there done that. All you have to do is take the outer cover off to replace. rewinding the spring is the hardest part. The part is pretty cheap also, I am thinking 20- something bucks.
Those bikes occasionally feel like they are locked up when you kick them, and if you try and power through it, that could happen.

Thanks ...

What about a housing gasket? Is there a gasket between the cases ...

What about the gear on the shaft? Is it pressed on?

I am thinking there was a gasket, can't remember for sure. I had a few spare gaskets plus usually you can reuse them. Don't remember the details, the shaft just slipped into the hole, might have been a keeper. Once again the only challenge was getting the right tension on the return spring.

Ok ... I'll ask about a gasket when I place the order ...


Here is the updated part number for that shaft and price ... 8000h5023 $37.28

My good friend Hex got stuck on Cebu island an extra day so he stayed over with me ...Whats the best thing to do to Hex other than feed him is to give him some mechanical apparatus to work ... This starter shaft was perfect for this ...

Here are interesting points of replacing this shaft...

1) No need to remove the clutch housing or oil line..

re-Installing

2) The shaft and gear both have marks to line up for setting the spring tension as in the pic below

3) Once the new shaft has all the components added, it can be inserted back in to the housing AND the tabbed piece on the back side of the gear needs to be twisted so that it locks the new shaft in place...

4) Have the larger return spring on the shaft sitting loosely on the shaft and attach the end onto the shaft first and then attach the other end to case

5) Very important here ... When replacing the side housing, the oil pump gear MUST mess with the gears that are on the plate ... You can mess them by applying slight pressure on the plate and them bump the engine over SLOWLY with either the kicker or having the bike in gear and bumping the engine ... The former worked for us ..

If the gears do no mess in this case and you attempt to pull the plate back top the engine, you will bust something on the oil pump gears or housing maybe..

Very simple job but just be sure to gets steps 2 and 5 correct..

Here are the timing marks on the shaft and the gear .. Thats the locking tab above the gear mark also ...



Hex figured this out, not me ...

whatd you do there lead leg??!!

gota love huskys. reuseable gaskets, simple to fix.

yay!

dont drip oil on the kitchen floor man, the wife will have at you!

It was a 2-stroker guy\friend with the heavy foot having his way with starting the bike ...

And Hex was doing the work and we only dropped a few drops aligning the oil pump gears ... I had the bike sitting there with engine oil drained, tools laid out and removed the side plate as he watched and got up and left the room... When I came back, he was all over removing the broken shaft and all I had to do was shine the torch (flashlight, torch is a UK thing) ... Yep, I knew he could not resist getting his hands dirty ... I'm loving my WR250 but this TC needs its front tire lifted a few times out on the trails in the very near future :0 ) ....

Yep, I bought a new side plate gasket but used the old one ..

I think Bill told me that the bike had the cams polished but on occasion it still will bind ... Not very often, I've saw it about twice, but if that kicker will not push down, don't jump up and force it thinking it is compression ... These are not 2T machines ...

I did not know about the alignment marks, but got mine working anyway. I have pretty much developed a feel for starting it and don't have problems.
Properly set up these TC's are hard to beat for woods bikes.

I had the same problem man kick starter shraft snapped of while I was on the beach and the tide was coming up haha. They replaced that part with a new one, the old shaft had a 6mm bolt thread and the new one is 4mm bolt thread. Reason being they could get more meat on
the shaft with the 4mm bolt Hole witch makes it stronger.

Cheers Trent

That makes sense, I noticed I had to use a smaller bolt, I feel better about it now!

Same thing on my 2013 TC 250. Decompression stuck and now I have a new bike that I can't ride until the BACK ORDER part comes in. Factory / Corporate is being of no help. The customer service for Corporate Husky has definitely sucked so far for me. They say they will help and then do not follow up. Getting ready to have my buddy who owns an aerospace machine shop make me one.

Thanks everyone for the info. Especially on the updated bolt hole being smaller. Makes sense. I will get the mod on the decomp. done as well.
This tells me that Husky knows about this, has redesigned it but is keeping it hush hush. Should be a damn recall.

Can anyone recomfirm this part number as it seems that number has superceeded to
8000A7078
Thanks

http://www.husqyparts.com/en/model/2012/tc_250/oem/23269

Yes, 8000A7078 is the old shaft. The upgraded shaft is out of stock.
I'm waiting for new one.

Great write up and thanks for including pics.

Why didn't they just leave the decomp lever??

For the 010 TC250s, here is the new word.

8000H5023 has been replaced by the new setup.

8540193 (shaft and kick lever boss) is a direct replacement kit for 8000h5023. Price is $86.25. Bad news is this kit is currently unavailable and I estimate 6-8 weeks before delivery to me. But for customers with immediate need, I have been selling 8539464 (shaft) for $39.25 and 8539465 (kick lever assembly) $91.99.

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Clueless on the decomp lever question ..

I tried going this route and ended up with the 92.00 dollar lever and the shaft 8539464 on back order. There are no good solutions at this time.