KXcam22
Husqvarna
AA Class
Some uneccessary background. There are 2 types of voltage regulators (VR), Shunt and Series. Shunt VR (like the 630) short circuit the stator to stop the battery from getting overcharged. The newest type (usually aftermarket and some 2015 bikes) is the series VR. It open circuits the stator to stop the battery from overcharging. Whats the difference?? The shunt type short circuit causes extra heat in the stator since there is nowhere for the power to flow. It has been done this way on motorcycles since forever but on bikes with weak designed stators it will cause them to eventually fail. There are many bike models that suffer repeat stator failures. There are 2 types of shunt VRs. The old school one, like on the Husky, uses SCRs while the newer ones use MOSFETs. The MOSFETS have a much lower resistance than SCRs which allows the VR to operate at a much lower temperature. In many examples you dont even need a heat sink. The SCR type have one connection plug while the MOSFET type typically have 2. It is important to note that these VRs are virtually interchangeable with some wiring and the internet is full of great examples. Anyway enough technical crap. Here is how I modded my VR to keep it alive and well.
1. The enemy of the VR is heat - getting too much and not getting rid or it fast enough. The husky VR is bolted to a flat plate on the frame to absorb heat but on my bike the plate is not flat, not even close - no heat transfer happening. Look at my first attempt to add heat compound. Almost no contact. I'm surprised it hasn't already died.
To fix this I build a flat aluminum heat sink plate that fit underneath the VR. The thickness of the plate made it necessary to make a separate ground lug. I sanded the surface of the heatsink on a piece of glass to make it nice and flat. Attached is a scale heatsink template.
2. Shitty ground. This was the fix on my old Fireblade. Run a #10 ground wire from the VR ground to the main engine ground or the battery - terminal. On the Husky, the stock VR ground has to make connection through the anodizing on the subframe and then through the bolted subframe connection to the main frame. It works but high resistance here shows up as heat in the VR.
3. Shitty power wire. The VR can put out 20-30A but the stock wiring is acceptable for about 8-10A. This is common. The fix is to cut the red wire and splice on a #10 wire and fuse direct to the battery + terminal. My charging voltage jumped up by .2 V when I did this.
If you were to buy an aftermarket VR kit it would come with all three of these things. Here are some pics. Hope this helps someone. Cam.
1. The enemy of the VR is heat - getting too much and not getting rid or it fast enough. The husky VR is bolted to a flat plate on the frame to absorb heat but on my bike the plate is not flat, not even close - no heat transfer happening. Look at my first attempt to add heat compound. Almost no contact. I'm surprised it hasn't already died.
To fix this I build a flat aluminum heat sink plate that fit underneath the VR. The thickness of the plate made it necessary to make a separate ground lug. I sanded the surface of the heatsink on a piece of glass to make it nice and flat. Attached is a scale heatsink template.
2. Shitty ground. This was the fix on my old Fireblade. Run a #10 ground wire from the VR ground to the main engine ground or the battery - terminal. On the Husky, the stock VR ground has to make connection through the anodizing on the subframe and then through the bolted subframe connection to the main frame. It works but high resistance here shows up as heat in the VR.
3. Shitty power wire. The VR can put out 20-30A but the stock wiring is acceptable for about 8-10A. This is common. The fix is to cut the red wire and splice on a #10 wire and fuse direct to the battery + terminal. My charging voltage jumped up by .2 V when I did this.
If you were to buy an aftermarket VR kit it would come with all three of these things. Here are some pics. Hope this helps someone. Cam.
