Hi all, I just picked up a new (to me) 2009 TE610 with 5k miles. It seems well taken care of but the clutch is kind-of jerkey in 1st gear. I tried playing with the cable adjustment and it didn't seem to help much. The behavior is like this: - Warm bike - Start out in 1st gear - Clutch initially normal - Then at last bit of disengagement, there's a "thud" and jerky feel. I'm about to remove the cover and inspect what's going on in there (checking the torque on that other gear while I'm in there). What do you think this could be? I read one instance here of someone filing down the clutch forks to smooth out the action. I'm going to replace the friction plates and install a new cable just in case. Thanks! Sasha in SF
Nice looking bike. I would try changing the oil, maybe try some Rotella T6. You shouldn't have clutch trouble yet at 5K miles unless the PO was a wheelie goon.
I checked the friction plates thickness after more than 8k miles and they were ok. Incidentally, the wear limit for the clutch lining plates is 0.104 in. I also checked the clutch springs length and some of them were almost below the wear limit: 1.53 in. So, I replaced the 3 shorter springs (3 out of 6); they didn't cost much. A frayed cable should cause problems when you disengage the clutch using the lever, instead of a jerky sensation, IMO. We don't have clutch forks like this: Maybe you meant the cup in the message #41 here: http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?121985-06-SM610-engine-teardown-Who-want-s-to-help. You can adjust it.
When he said "forks," I assume he meant the basket. Based on the problem description, I don't think that is the problem here. 5k miles is not much usually, as far as clutch basket wear on a 610 either.
Just pull the clutch basket out and look at the back of it. They have a Cush drive built in. These are a known problem / wear item. Just replace with one made but " Indy Unlimited " you can find him on ADV or CH. He's a good guy and will do it for you if you want (for a bit extra $) this is how they look when replaced with Indy's washers. Here's a old one I took out next to a new one
Hi again, So I just pulled off the clutch basket and sent it off to Indy. Thanks for the advice! While I was taking it apart, I noticed there was quite a bit of play in the clutch basket. The locking nut was tight and there wasn't any play in the center post, just the outside basket. Is this normal? Have a look at the video to see the play: View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBLbxXsV3ZM
Look at the video in the message #6 in this thread: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/play-in-clutch-assembly.1396/: I have a similar play. We are likely to have to replace the bushing mentioned in that thread. I haven't done it yet, but I'm going to do it (I haven't travelled many miles since I noticed the play).
Thanks Theo! It looks like this is the bushing in question. Time to start calling around to find one:
Please post here if you find anyone with them available. I have one on backorder at Motoxotica as of about 3 weeks ago, Uptite and Bill's were out of stock as well. George at Uptite said they've always been a hassle to get and that he was probably going to get some made. I think the play in mine might have been a bit less than yours...I put 'er back together and its working fine.
You might want to try Dan at Motoexotica in Vacaville California. I've had to replace that bushing twice on mine and he has had it in stock both times.
Thanks Pinepig! I just heard back from Dan: "that item is in backorder.has been for about 6 weeks.we hope to get some soon but have no eta.dan" It's a bummer because he's local. I'll keep trying around, since I'm new to the Husky world, who else would be most likely to stock something like this?
pretty sure you wont be needing to replace the clutch pack at such low mileage.they normally are good for 3 times that mileage.610s are a bit jerky at low speeds especially in 1st gear.i think 630s were better feeling at take off.perhaps the hydraulic clutch or the twin cam helps there.i can see that the 610 in the photo still has the O2 sensor in it.for best running (competition use)it should be removed and then the bike needs the power up kit.610s work better yet with the JD fuel tuner again for (completion use only).we serviced 610 today and I took it for a test ride and definitely will say it is a jerkier takeoff than many other bikes I have experienced.as for parts on back order.there are quite a few right now...it should get better soon as a very large parts order was just released from customs today.it was stuck in customs for approx. 6 weeks ,ouch!Andy at Husqvarna USA says better times are soon to be had regarding parts availability.Dan
Thanks Dan! I appreciate the response and your involvement in the forum! I'm a transplant from the KTM world so I'm still learning the ropes on this bike. The seller said the bike has a "power-up" kit installed, but I'm not sure what that means. All I can tell is it has a LeoVince muffler and the smog stuff came in a box. It seems to be well "jetted" for a big FI single: Smooth power and doesn't pop on deceleration. I'll take a peek at the plug while it's all apart. The bike was purchased near Sacramento and has your sticker on the fender I've already ordered some Barnett friction plates so while it's all apart I'm just going to throw it 'em in there. That's about the extent of my abilities, so I'll bring it into your shop when it needs a cam chain (and hopefully nothing major). Take care, Sasha
That's a damn shame, always keep Dan in mind, he still cares about our Huskys and try's to keep the common wear parts in stock so you don't have to wait.
Help! Just tried adjusting the clutch cable after it would not disengage and had to come home slamming gears. The clutch arm seem to just turn and not pull the clutch in at all....made a pop sound once when it worked for a second. Any thoughts???
sounds like youve either broken or bent the actuator, the bit the cable hooks to on the engine. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/sudden-slack-in-clutch-lever.19101/
