250-500cc internal clutch adjustment on wr300

[shawbagga]

clutch is creeping in gear to point where lever must be against bars to disengage. basket a little notched but not too bad. hub, pressure plate, steels & fibres ok. running magura hydro clutch so no cable to adjust.

to adjust freeplay internally is it a matter of placing a flat blade screwdriver in the slot of the pressure plate & the shaft thing that goes deep into the case, cracking the locknut on top of said shaft & then screwing the slot in end of the threaded shaft one way or the other? locknut seems very tight. am I missing something? dont wanna bust anything. cheers

 

[lankydoug]

Yep, that's how you do it. Adjust it so the arm the cable hooks to at the engine travels as close to across 90 degrees when the clutch is being disengaged, the pull will be easier and it reduces drag.

 

[juicypips]

Its hydro clutch so no cable to go by, but thats how i would do it simply crack the nut off... Or so i thought

 

[shawbagga]

whys the bloody nut so fricken tight though Doug? reverse thread or anything stupid like that? put in ally/plastic protectors in vice to crack it? maybe we were being girls & not trying hard enough juicy?! not much metal left to chip off though

 

[juicypips]

Nah man it looked righty tighty to me
I think vise is only option failing that its new bearing bit maybe the shaft too if the threads knackerd but yup was not as straight forward as should be...

 

[flyingbob]

Heat gun is your friend...

 

[shawbagga]

will try that but it was fricken tight!

 

[juicypips]

I second that and seemed to remember a blow torch came up in the scenario somwhere...

 

[lankydoug]

whys the bloody nut so fricken tight though Doug? reverse thread or anything stupid like that? put in ally/plastic protectors in vice to crack it? maybe we were being girls & not trying hard enough juicy?! not much metal left to chip off though

It's just really tight the first time around. Mine had some kind of paint on it, maybe a form of lock tight, I used a 6 point socket on it to get it loose.

 

[lankydoug]

Its hydro clutch so no cable to go by, but thats how i would do it simply crack the nut off... Or so i thought

I realize it's a hydro but I thought the Magura hydro clutch attached to the factory arm that the cable used to attach to. The point of adjusting it is to get the ideal geometry so that you have the most leverage and travel as possible.

 

[shawbagga]

yeh it does Doug. wont the internal adjustment adjust the freeplay in the clutch take up? lever feel is good just need it to disengage clutch earlier in the lever pull so lever doesn't hit bars. I think that's what I mean

 

[Motosportz]

I often times have to remove the pushrod and hold it in a vise to crack that nut.

 

[lankydoug]

yeh it does Doug. wont the internal adjustment adjust the freeplay in the clutch take up? lever feel is good just need it to disengage clutch earlier in the lever pull so lever doesn't hit bars. I think that's what I mean

Yes, sort of. When you get the geometry ideal it makes it more efficient so that less pull at the hand lever equals more travel at the clutch plates. Mine used to drag and now I can pull with one finger to my knuckles and get full disengagement. I can even start the bike in gear while only pulling the clutch halfway in.

 

[shawbagga]

cool il try the vice trick. which way is which when adjusting & roughly how many turns or 1/4 turns should I be going with on the slotted shaft after lock nut loose? is there a way to check short of putting everything back together & starting bike?

 

[Motosportz]

counterclockwise (making it longer) will take up slack in the cable. I little goes a long ways. No real way to test it other than reinstalling and seeing where you are at.

 

[lankydoug]

cool il try the vice trick. which way is which when adjusting & roughly how many turns or 1/4 turns should I be going with on the slotted shaft after lock nut loose? is there a way to check short of putting everything back together & starting bike?

With the side cover off work the hand lever while you adjust the push-rod length, watch the arm/lever move and get it working so it's mid-stroke is 90 degrees to the pull of the cable or in your case the Magura linkage. I had to adjust the cable free play after every adjustment because as Kelly said a little adjustment on the push-rod goes a long way at the hand lever.

 

[lankydoug]

It will become obvious to you as you do it. Getting it right makes the clutch feel so much better. I think if everyone did this adjustment first thing when they bought their bike very few would buy motion pro cables and Magura set ups. I bought a Motion Pro cable and it did improve the pull but only a fraction of what adjusting the push-rod did.

 

[Cosmokenney]

I did mine with the cable removed from the clutch lever. Measure the free-play at the tip of the arm. You want to adjust it down to 3 mm or less free-play. That will get you just about the same adjustment that lankydoug is describing.
Doing the measurement method is really a two man job. One guy is on the clutch cover side, the other on the arm side of the bike. If you are making the adjustments, you have to trust your buddy hasn't had too much beer to measure accurately

 

[gwynfryn]

The only way I could loosen the nut(without damaging slotted shaft end) was to remove the shaft first. Have since added 7mm to clutch arm which has lightened things up nicely.

 

[juicypips]

Oh yeh i completly forgot it turnes into hydro after the arm, was thinking it was like ktms and ive seen the bloody thing, my bad.