TE/TC Interesting heads up on the new tpi hikes from Slavens racing

View: https://youtu.be/GUSyJ6gKaxE

Wow! Thanks for sharing.

Not what you would or should expect from a new bike.

Well if you're changing heads etc then I think you can make you're probably capable of picking your own plug .
So to sum up the video the stock plug is fine for a stock bike .

What was said the stock plug ZGR7GI is a long reach type, with long extended insulator. Jeff is saying to simply go to the BR7EIX Iridium plug which is the state of the art racing plug and not prone to mechanical failure. The heat range is still a 7 and the chamber is the same as my TX300 for example.

However this is the AOMC statement and most likely from the OEM manual. (owners check it out and see)
NGK ZGR7GI-13G Spark Plug KTM/Husqvarna 250/300 TPI

The 2018 TE 250i and 2019 250i/300i have a very specific spark plug designed specifically for optimum combustion and fuel mixture generated by the injected models. For this reason, spark plugs from earlier models must not be used as otherwise it can lead to poor starting and engine running behavior.

It's for sure a longer insulator and tip

We put projected 7s in plenty of bikes . It's makes them run amazing . For slow gnarly stuff. Obviously not hooney stuff

Anyway I have my feelers out to friends in high places, asking about the plug choice of the top tier TPI riders/teams. Lets see what comes back. If anything.

BTW Hooney stuff is a new to me from your Kiwi vernacular, it the same as Trail punter stuff right? Its definitely going into my vocabulary , great word!

I run a BR8EG plug in my 2016 TE 300 and My 2017 TC 125 runs great

Moose Racing now makes spark plugs which I have been using for over a year now

Moose has there own part number but to cross it over it is a NGK #

Hooney hoony . . People who actually use the main jet often

The guy that owns by chosen bike shop took his main jet out of his current 250 beta to see where it actually took effect . It wasn't until 3 entire rides later it actually got blubbery up one hill . He had forgotten about the lack of main jet .

Direct from 2 top level enduro team owners in Italia, take it how you will, but I'm inclined to go with what these 2 guys say.
At the same time I'd also be more inclined to change plugs more often in more of a race team cycle on the TPI bike, or at least pull it and check it more often.
Our fuel is somewhat suspect and perhaps there is some knock issues with our fuel over here, which even varies from state to state, something to also think about.

I had a chat with Farioli and Azzalin about spark plugs, both of them confirmed that if you run a carburetor 2 stroke bike you need to useBR7EIX (if Iridium is even better), if your bikes are fuel injected you must go for ZGR7GI-13G. This is what both recommend. They had no doubts on this matter.

View: https://youtu.be/mPSrV4XBAcs

Yes the added compression is the where he is going, leave it stock and run the oem special plug is the best choice.
Also as we speak I have another former trophy team world champ that will also ask what the EU teams are using for back up from the first answer from ex Farioli KTM and former world champ rider.
I finally rode the Husky TE300i in Tecate this past weekend, its brilliant. There are things I would do but it really is a good feeling machine.

Of course if you change the compression ratio you're most likely going to have to adjust the fuel ratio and spark curve to match or you will run into lean or rich spots in different throttle positions. I don't know how easy it is to change the FI/spark advance mapping on one of these bikes but I would pretty much guarantee higher compression is going to require better fuel than pump gas. It's not the spark plug unless the heat range is so far out of whack (too hot) that it would cause pre-ignition. This is one disadvantage to the average mechanic that doesn't have the electronics to make the adjustments or even collect the data to determine where the problem is occurring. If it was carbureted it's an easy fix.

Lankydoug good comments yes and all those team guys have a full engineering staff of professional tuners...not internet experts , and I'm sure they are using the best possible within the spec racing fuels as well. Pump gas is inconsistent and filled with road law additives, good race fuel will run cooler and more efficiently.

For a similar type engineering solution for a specific engine characteristic look up the proper plug for my ex 1997 RM125. It is a 30 buck NGK plug specially designed due to internal pressure waves that were cracking the standard NGK plugs, of course all the back yard "expert"
"tuners" installed standard 2 buck standard plugs because they worked just fine.......until they didn't.
PS Jeff is still a top tier pro tuner but is referring to his own specific set up as stated above. I will still refer to his setup tips over 90% of those internet sensations out there. He's done pro work for many top tier teams and principles.

Another point worth making is that extended tip spark plugs have been around for a long time and used in 15:1 compression supercharged alcohol burning v-8 engines with 30+psi of boost and the plugs don't fail unless something happens to cause a lean condition. The theory that the extended tip is weak when protruding into the combustion chamber just doesn't hold up. On the other hand gasoline can detonate for several different reasons and when it does it will essentially simulate hitting the plug tip with a hammer thousands of times a minute.

What gets me is guys will buy "power now" separator plates for their carbs, custom pipes, gimmick spark plugs with split tips and dual electrodes, they will argue about which mix oil is better while they are putting on $1,500 worth of protective gear to get on a 10K dirt bike and then fill the tank with pump gas because it's $3 cheaper per gallon. It is true that if your engine doesn't need race fuel you're wasting your money but if it does need better fuel if even for a few seconds and you don't have it, gremlins with hammers will beat the $#it out of the inside of your engine. I think TM has the right idea, they build their engines for race fuel from the get go and require that you run it. Every other manufacturer is trying to walk the tightrope with pump gas and disaster by jetting it rich out of the crate and detuning it by building a little cushion in the squish and/or retarding the timing. I'm old and have over 30 years of experience as a mechanic and a racer and I can tell you without a doubt that you'll realize more gain in engine performance and longevity by mechanically setting up your race engine like a race engine and running race fuel.

I have used and run F&L 110 Leaded Race fuel in everything I own. Last month it was $ 8.50 a gallon Be it my motorcycles, Lawnmower, Weed eater, Power blower, Pressure washer, Generator both my portable one and the one in the camper. Never a problem for about 30 years now
I also only mix 2 stroke gas, so all the 4 strokes also run on premix. Don't have to worry if it is mixed or not
The Factory says the 2017 TC 125 is to use a #9 plug and the 2016 TE 300 is to us a # 7 plug. Well both bikes run a # 8 I run the Moose Racing plug. Cross reference it Is a BR8EZ. Both bikes run great from below sea level to over 8,000 feet racing the Nationals. I never rejet

Bottom line for me is all the motors start easy run great and last a long time. Carb never gum up and the fuel can sit for years no problem.

Thanks F&L which we also use in all the off road trucks we race in Baja

Well that's interesting, not a big surprise that manufacturers go in favor of emissions and not longevity...

I am personally using a projected tip plug in my non TPI Husqvarna WR300 2010 with no issues, I prefer the projected tip for better burning, I mostly use my bike down low in the RPM range, but seeing this I may reconsider and using just the normal plug for extra safety.

Cheers !

Interesting, and is correct, mostly... There is no way changing a spark plugs and from non-projected to projected, or vice versa, is going to change the ignition timing. 0.007" BTDC will always be 0.007" BTDC.
All it does is move where the spark occurs, in relation to the center of the combustion chamber.