Quick notes: C200L5 & C150L2, six TC balls & 21 SS balls, stock throwout, bearing and thrust washer with 115-015 throw out spacer. Everything is in the kit. This was my first install or use of a Rekluse clutch, and Rekluse was closed for the weekend during the install, so I had to "wing it" a bit. I hope this step by step prevents you from the same. You'll basically follow the Rekluse instructions for a 2008 TE510. After going into the clutch three times, I ended up with the Rekluse's "recommended initial setup", (medium engagement RPM and HARD engagement rate). If you have a 2009 I STRONGLY recommend using this for your starting point. It will also give you a chart to guide you through changes in either direction. Issue 1: The 2009 TE610 has a throwout shaft that is significantly larger diameter than the Rekluse supplied 151-002A Throwout (supposedly for 2006-2007 TE450&510). Because of this I used my stock throwout, stock throwout bearing, AND stock thrust washer. It appeared this was not going to work properly without a spacer of some kind, but I didn't understand about the massive amount of slack the Rekluse requires when engine is not running, so I installed the Rekluse 115-015 throwout spacer. It's in the kit for the Husky WR250, but description states KTM 85/105, so it may have other uses. That spacer may explain why I had to make over an inch of adjustment to the clutch cable before it would work properly. The instruction page "Setting Clutch Cable Slack (WR250 only)" is NOT JUST FOR THE WR250!!! It might have taken less adjustment if I had not used the throwout spacer (as shown in the Rekluse manual for 2008 TE510), but I am not certain, and have a perfectly performing Rekluse with the spacer. Since you have to disassemble after initial break in any way, you can give it a try without spacer. Issue 2: This was my misunderstanding of the Rekluse instructions. The Clutch Cable Slack adjustment is NOT just for the WR250. I discovered this upon initial assembly. The engine will put a little power to the ground at idle, but very little. Applying throttle will just slip the clutch more. Again, if you don't use the spacer, your original clutch cable settings may allow the Rekluse to work a little better, but adjusting the Clutch Cable Slack is CRITICAL to proper operation. Here are images of installation on a 2009 TE610: Lay the bike on left side, but put something under the foot peg to keep the shifter from digging into the left side case. Forget about the Rekluse suggestion of pinning the brake lever out of the way. Just pull it, and service the brake lever shaft and footpeg bolt holes at the same time. Pay attention to those black O-rings. They seal the pivot bolt shaft from water and dirt so you can coat it with grease and keep it pivoting freely. Now's also a good time to "chase" the threads on the footpeg bolts with a M8 x 1.2 pitch tap. Don't forget to use Lock-tite 243 to keep it the pegs from vibrating loose (known TE issue). Here's what it looks like with PLENTY of room to lift the side case up an out. Husky supplies two prying tabs to free a clutch cover that may be stuck on. One is on the front of the cover just ahead of the bottom right bolt on the oil pump housing. The other is just behind the oil sight glass Pull the cover, and remove the factory (OEM) springs and clutch pressure plate. To keep the main shaft from turning when you remove the clutch hub retaining nut, put the transmission in third or higher gear, and slide a long breaker bar or hammer handle between the swingarm and spokes. The higher gears prevent the torque from getting high enough to break spokes. Move the hammer or breaker bar to the other side of swingarm when you have to retorque the nut later. Here's the factory clutch basket without the pressure plate, springs or center clutch hub. Look closely and you'll see the faint wear marks of the factory clutch center's thrust washer. It's probably still stuck to the factory center clutch. GET IT NOW. TE610's have a habit of eating the soft factory clutch basket spring washers (12 washers at the end of the 6 springs in the photo). Mine were almost worn out at 7500 miles. In the photo below you can see where the three rivets were ground off when I had the spring washers replaced with much harder aftermarket ones. Here's the basket after installing the factory thrust washer and the Rekluse center clutch (175-25B) Notice the main shaft splines protruding above the Rekluse center clutch. Those get coverd in next step. Here's the Rekluse (184-142) center clutch spacer shown inverted to show the tab that will index on either of the two flats on the center clutch. Here's the Rekluse center clutch washer (414-139) with the center tab bent at 90 degrees to index on the single flat of the Rekluse spacer that was installed in the last step. Photo below shows the factory nut torqued to 45.6 ft.lbs. (Husky torque specification), and one of the tabs on the Rekluse washer bent into place. You must bend both tabs into place to provide clearance for components installed later. The Rekluse Installation Guide #191-856 (manual revision 04132012) is very good, and the images above will take you to page 7 "INSTALLING THE CLUTCH PACK". You have to dig through the tuning chart, or look at this photo for the layout of the TC balls in a setup calling for 6 TC and 21 SS. The Rekluse throwout supplied in the kit will NOT fit over the factory throwout shaft (you can just see that shaft in the photo above inside the hole of the main shaft). I used the factory throwout and parts shown under Line 20 "WR250/300 only". (Rekluse Spring Carrier atop Rekluse Throw out spacer (115-015). Skip ahead to Line 25, and follow to the end. At Line 32, you will measure the "end gap", and may have to replace one of the Rekluse standard drive plates with the supplied .048, or 0.65 plate. My friction disks at 9200 miles were were still within spec. for using the standard Rekluse plates. Do not forget to set the clutch lever free play Line 38. It applies to ALL bikes not just WR250. My TE idles at 1750-1800 in neutral. It drops 50-100 when put in first gear. Release the clutch, and the bike doesn't move, but you can feel it right on the edge. Roll the throttle and it begins to move immediately. I plan to test a 1600 RPM idle, but now it's time to RIDE. The engine braking is just like factory, VERY STRONG. Clutch pull is so light, it will take a while to get used to modulating it again. Finding neutral is NOT as easy, but I think lowering my idle will fix that. However, I only use neutral for cranking now. I've already tested the configuration with L200L4 and C150L2, but engagement was so low the bike would not stand still without holding the brakes. According to the TE510 tuning chart in the manual, a higher engagement RPM would be achieved with the C200L6 and C150L2. I may try it but not before testing a 1600 RPM idle. Horsing a bike this big around tight/technical single track was never easy, but doing it while modulating a very heavy clutch pull was exhausting. The Rekluse may very well be the single best accessory for my TE610 and my preferred riding.
After about 100 miles, the balls must be polishing their tracks a bit because the engagement seems to be a little lower. Just putting your foot down stops any rolling, as does a very light tug on the clutch lever, or the lightest application of brakes. If I was going to remove the clutch lever completely (to install left side brake), I'm consider replacing the C200L5 spring with the supplied C200L6. I'm definitely leaving the current spring set alone at least until after the DualSport event at Broxton Bridge next month. Thanks to the 610's torque, I don't see a need to try the "soft" engagement setting (swap 3 of the TC balls for SS balls) for really slick terrain either. Just lug it down, and don't whack the throttle open.
Thanks for the thorough writeup. If I don't ship my Husky to South America for a couple of months, I'll be doing this same upgrade very soon.
ok, showing my lack of knowledge here.... what exactly does a rekluse clutch do? does it work kinda like an auto in that gear changing can be done without using the clutch lever?
I'm right there with you. I saw this over on the ADV forum, and thought this thread might shed some light. Let us know the detail on why we "need" this mod
Works like your old Mini Trail 50...give it throttle and you take off, but you can disengage power by pulling in the clutch if you need to. Some will convert the rear brake to the clutch lever. I guess it can make riding technical stuff easier since you don't have to modulate the clutch or worry about stalling.
Rekluse Zstart Pro will disengage the clutch at low RPM. (you set where this happens); therefore, you can keep more fingers on the grips when you are banging through handlebar twisting rock, stumps or when tight trees are making your bark busters earn their keep. You can also adjust how hard the clutch re-engages (light and slow for really slick conditions or harder for times when you have decent to very good traction. The 610 makes enough torque to lug it down, so you can leave the engagement "hard"and modulate traction with the throttle. It also makes the clutch pull almost as light as a broken cable. BTW, the Husky like most dirt bikes can be up shifted without the clutch. It just takes a quick snick of the shifter and quick, brief let off of the throttle doable, but not something I do since the race days are over.
This is not a good mod for this bike. Tread lightly. I cant believe they offer a model for this bike. Too much torque. Keep an eye on your oil. It will tell the tale if your burning your friction plates up. I had to change the oil every ride when i raced a built kx450 with that model auto clutch. It was full of friction material and smelled like BBQ. It was not a setup issue. It was a strong engine issue. Your 610 probably makes twice as much torqe as even a well built 450 race bike does.
Well I don't know why you had trouble with your Kaw, but my oil comes out smelling like oil. The extra TC balls and low engagement RPM used in the install help for a solid lockup.After all the same clutch is used in the 510s. Did you talk to Rekluse about the problem you were having?
Yes i spoke to them. They told me about the core exp which at the time was still being tested and not for sale. Best of luck,its a great mod and most owners never have any issue what so ever.
Hey Stolenfant, how is the rekluse working now that it has had some time to wear in? I really want to put one of these my 08 610. Anxiously awaiting an answer. Sorry about the double post.
Sorry I haven't replied sooner. I love the thing! Just ran a long DualSport, and Rekluse made a tremendous difference. I was able to keep all four fingers of left hand on the bars. Lots of square edged roots, ruts, etc. Now that the parts have worn in, the engagement is a little diffferent. My idle is about 1450 normal temp, and the bike will stand still, but as soon as it reads 1500, it is trying to move. This gives engine braking just like stock with the clutch lever out. During the DS event, 80degrees outside, engine was significantly hotter, and idle was closer to 1800; therefore it was very hard to find neutral. Not a big deal as the bike will crank in gear if you pull the clutch in. I geared down for the event 14t front 47t rear (stock is 15-45). With all the 610's engine braking, and gearing that low, the throttle is very touchy in first. A slight roll off is like grabbing the brake, and slight roll-on lunges the bike forward. It's just too much of a seesaw effect, and made it nearly impossible to get a "flow" going in the tight woods. (rather exhausting) Late in day, I quit first gear, left it in second and let the Rekluse apply power to the rear. Even when I locked the rear, and had to stop to negotiate a turn or ditch, I left it in second gear. I'll open the case this week and measure plate end gap to see if I wore much clutch material, but I did check the clutch lever end play at 4000RPM (part of setup), and it hadn't changed. I am going to change the springs again to get a higher engagement RPM. My goal is to get a little less engine braking. An old Enduro rider who's had autoclutches for years said he sets up for near freewheeling at zero throttle, and just uses the rear brake. I like a little engine braking, but his idea has merit. If this was a 250, or maybe a two stroke engine, I would probably set up for complete clutch disengagement to somewhere just above idle, and mount a left hand rear brake. In summary, I cannot think of a good reason why you would NOT want the Rekluse Z-start Pro on a TE610. You still keep all your friction disks, and if you want to use the clucth lever, it's there (but 80% lighter to pull). I'm still running the C200L5 and C150L2. I'll be testing the C200L6 next.
I just followed Stolenfant's lead and put a Rekluse on my '06 610. I am putting my comments here so they are easily referenced with the hard work that Stolenfant pioneered. Reading his writeup made the job so much easier- so thank you! I was able to lay the bike on it's side to change the clutch with the oil in it. No oil gushed out. You must protect your shifter though. I used the C200L6 spring and the C150L2. (Same ball set up as the OP). Engagement is pretty abrupt at about 1600 rpm on my stock digital dash (accuracy NOT guaranteed). My bike idles at 1200-1300 rpm. I will break it in with this combo. I did have some issues not mentioned above. The Rekluse inner clutch basket rubbed on my clutch basket rivets. (I have the spring cup mod). I ground the rivets down till they cleared. I was still not happy with the clearance. There was still some very slight scrapping on the outer edge of the inner basket (rubbing against the outer clutch basket). I figured the scrapping would get worse as the copper clutch basket bearing wore down. The stock spacer between the two baskets is 5mm. I took a hardened 3/4" fender washer and widened the inside hole to fit. The fender washer is 3mm thick. I stacked this washer on top of the stock washer to get 8mm of spacer. By doing this I got my clearance, and then I did not have to use the Rekluse (184-142) center clutch spacer. I also used my stock clutch washer (the one with the 90 degree bend). At first, I tried using the stock throwout bearing with the WR250 spacer like the OP. I could not get the clutch pull right (at least a 1/2" play at 4000- 4500 rpm.) My lever was all the way down to the handle bar before disengagement and I had the clutch cable adjusted out very far. I took it back apart and added another .5 mm spacer to the throwout bearing. (I had one from the Dynaring I had just taken out of the bike). I was then able to get the clutch lever where I like it (about 1/3 of the way to the handlebar before disengagement) without going to either extreme on the clutch cable length. The Rekluse throwout bearing for the 450/510 (Labeled 000B) will not fit over the stock TE 610 throwout bearing. If I did not have the .5mm Dynaring spacer lying around, I would have drilled it out till it fit. It is made of aluminum, so it should be easy work. In case you are wondering, I did make sure I had case cover clearance after adding the additional spacers. It was not quite a plug and play job. But I am very happy with the results. I can now pull the clutch with one finger. I did not finish this project till 10:30 tonight, so my test ride was short (and cold). I will report back after I get a chance to take it for a longer spin. Mike
Something isn't right if you are rubbing the rivets. I wouldn't ride it much until you find out why it's happening. I had to adjust my push rod.
ESP, Yes you have to protect shifter. I used the sheet of plywood shown in photos 1 and 2. Rubbing rivets- I assume the side of the rivets that is rubbing is the expanded end, not the head end. The do have to be ground down very close. I was shocked at how much mine were ground down (photo 6), but after reading your post, I believe I understand why. Sounds like your shimming the center clutch out worked without providing any other clearance issues. If I hadn't sold my TE last night, I'd measure how much my rivets protrude. By the way, it took about 50-100 miles commuting and woods riding before the engagement RPM became 100% consistent. I'm guessing the balls are "polishing" their path during this, and until this is done, I wouldn't comment on engagement RPM. I was planning to install the The C200L6 spring to get the "bike moving" engagement just above 1500. If you put in first gear, accel to about 1800, then close the throttle, does the clutch fully disengage/freewheel at around 1600, or does the engine braking continue below 1600? I would think that would be the perfect setup because you could set idle lower to allow freewheeling and rais it to 1550 or 1600 to get full engine braking. No more opening the case to alter engagement points!!! Absolute bliss. Unfortunately, now I have to start over with the 450EXC I've replaced the TE610 with. It doesn't have the brute GRUNT of the 610, but it scoots like a scalded rabbit just above idle. Lofting that front end over logs and rocks should be childs play now! You can always reach me via email (listed in PM of ADVrider), because I'll be spending most of research time on KTMtalk for a while. If I can help with anything, don't hesitate to ask.
Xcuvator- My rivets no longer rub because I shimmed the inner basket out an extra 3mm. Stolenfant- It is the clutch basket side (not the gear side) of the rivets that needed grinding. Mine now look like your above picture. The grinding was to get more room for the inner clutch basket. Even After I got the rivets clearanced, I still did not like how close the inner basket was to the clutch basket. There was no room for any wobble in the clutch basket, and I know I will get wobble as the copper clutch basket bearing wears down. I will do the test you suggested above on my next ride. KTMTalk is great place for all things KTM. I saw your 610 for sale on ADV, if I had seen it for sale before I bought mine- I would have grabbed it. It takes a while to sell a Husky, but eventually a buyer will show up.
ESP, you mention "engagement is pretty abrupt at 1600RPM". 1. The balls probably haven't broken into their paths yet, and may not be smoothly rolling out (engaging). 2. Fast/abrupt engagement is what you want. You're effectively reving your engine and "dumping" the clutch with such a big gap between idle RPM and engagement RPM (set by the C200L6 spring). The TE610 is such a torque monster that you don't need to slip the clutch much past the point of initial bike movement. The harder it engages, the less slippage, and the longer your clutch life will be. I'd suggest either moving idle up to 1500-1550, or installing the C200L5 spring to move the engagement RPM down. Once the balls have polished their path, say 100 miles, You may find you need to up the RPM even closer to the engagement RPM. Whatever you do, don't reduce the number of TC balls. I think your engagement would be so gradual that the motor would be overslipping the clutch in full traction conditions (especially pavement). Actually, the TE sold very quickly. There was a buyer in CA, MA and IL, but all would have involved shipping costs, so it ended up going to someone within driving distance. Evidently the initial and unwarranted fears about the TE610's potential longevity have finally been put to rest. I still envy those of you who still have one. I just wish I could have kept mine... now back to the garage to finish farkling the "new to me" 450EXC
I forgot to mention, I did measure end gap after the Dual Sport (just before selling the bike), and it was virtually unchanged!!! Remember, the clutch had almost 9000 miles on it when the Rekluse went in, and neither of the Rekluse supplied adjustment disks were required yet. There's TONS of life left on that clutch pack. Plan to take first ride on the new bike Sunday, and will probably order the Rekluse next week. I love those things!!! BTW, I'll be on my latest bike with a group of riders at the Hatfield/McCoy trail area weekend of March 23. It SURE WOULD BE NICE TO THROW A LEG OVER A TE610 again if anyone is in the area Clint
