Husqvarna TE 510 problems

I've got a Husqvarna te 510 09, and have lately been having some problems with my lights. The 20A fuse for the light keept blowing up every 20 min. So I asked the local Husqvarna work shop if I could upgrade to a 25A or 30A fuse. He said it didnt really matter if I used a bigger fuse, because they would blow if there was a shorage. So i bought a 30A fuse and used that instead.

When I first started the bike in neutral, it ran as it should. But when i put it in first gear and was about to take of, the whole bike died. Nothing worked at all. The fuses are intact so that is'nt the problem. I've checed that there are no loose cables what so ever.

Anyone out there that might know what's wrong? Could it be a blown coil?

You're gonna need to download a service manual with a complete wiring diagram and get familiar with the 20A circuit. You may have introduced more amperage than what the wiring could handle. You should re-install the correct fuse and replace ALL the fuses with fuses from an auto shop.

There is a short in the wires or a connector. Check all wires for damage and take all connectors apart, inspect for loose or damaged connections. Apply a good anti-corrosion compound to all wire connectors.

Thank you guys for answers, I'll check out the wiring once I'm done with my work for the day.
But it couldn't have damaged some of the other components? Or could it be a main fuse in the system?

Yes, you can burn out wires and components by installing the wrong size fuse.

turns out one of the wires was bruned, and the Main fuse was blown.. but got the bike up and running again. got any suggestions on how i can make the 20A fuse for the light work longer than 20 minutes? maybe put in a resistance?

If the fuse is blowing, there is a short somewhere, there is a bare wire touching metal somewhere.

Here's another thread on your same issue:

Bike has 200 miles on it, and obviously has a pretty bad short. Before I tear into it and isolate components and check the harness etc. are there any known issues I should be aware of that may save me some time?
While trying a trail side repair I only had a 30 amp fuse (stock is 20 amp) and it immediately blew the main fuse and killed the whole bike. So I left the 20 amp lighting fuse (lower fuse on right side) out and after replacing the main fuse it runs great but no lights or speedo.
With such few miles it's hard to believe the wiring harness could have worn through somewhere but I did notice it is very tightly installed on the frame. Seems like it could have been a few inches longer in some places.
Any thoughts?

Been gone from this site for a bit but it was the bulb. After a close look the filament post melted and bent over completing the ground all the time. I ordered an LED build as replacement so I won't be stuck riding home in the dark.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/08-te-510-blowing-fuse-for-lights-speedo.29401/

migh be the lighbulb then, because my bike only got 6 hours on it, so it would be weird that the wireing should be the problem.

If you're lucky it's just the bulb, my stock Husky bulb shorted out as well, who would have thought a headlight bulb would do that.

I just experienced a similar issue with my dc fuse blowing. I searched and found this thread so I went out to look for the obvious chaffing and traced wires of aftermarket stuff that I put on. No luck there so I disconnected the tail, signals, headlight & horn. I put a new fuse in and started it. Then I plugged each back in and sure enough the headlight was the culprit. What's confusing is that I tested both bulbs and they work fine when hooked directly to the battery. The wires don't appear to have any worn spots. What gives?

I belive my problem is the headlight, so I'm waiting for a xenon kit for my bike. Dont wanna get stuck riding in the dark... I can ride the bike for about 10 min before the fuse blows. The light bulb will light up, every time I start it with a new fuse, but it'll only last a while... Might wanna give the BA20D halogen light bulb a try, about 7$ so it's a cheap fix if it's the lightbulb.

Here's the xenon convertion kit I'm ordering.
http://www.hdbright.com/ba20d-hid-h...na-single-5000k-p-476.html?manufacturers_id=2

Did you ever unplug the headlight from the harness and try riding like that?

Mine works fine without the lightbulb

the wiring on the left side of bike it rubbing against the frame just in front of the battery had the same fault found it on the side if the road pulled the wiring harness forward and rode home cut and rejoin wires taped then protect them with a hard plastic covering

I know this is a real old thread but as these bikes get older its harder to find info so heres my experience which happened to me about 12 months ago and since ive fixed it hasnt been an issue .
I also had intermittent shorts on the what started on the accesories cuircut and eventuated to the main fuse, at random times of riding which made it very difficult to pinpiont the cause , after reading lots of forums on it and stripping the bike down to frame, pulling apart the wiring loom and re insulating it I was at end wits. So i got out a test light and went through every plug, it turned out to be an internal short in my horn not when pressed but with vibration it would randomly short , unplugging horn and riding for 12 months has confirmed this .

Old thread but the headlight bulb design is such that the low ( or high I cant remember ) beam shield folds over and contacts the other side creates a dead short inside the bulb, blows the fuse.

On my 2010 TE450, I traced everything and eventually found it was my horn. The wiring diagram was the only way I was able to narrow it down. Unplugged for a while, until I could arrange for another. Not sure if 09 has fuel injection, but wiring won’t be that different. Mine was blowing the 20 amp fuse that powers most significant circuits. Once blown, ignition and fuel injection draw on the battery without help from the magneto/generator. It only runs until the battery runs low. Sounds like your short is in the headlight bulb. I can offer strong advice to never increase amperage on any fuse over the factory values. The fuses protect virtually all the wiring from melting insulation. By far, the hardest problems to solve are those with wires melted and multiple shorts.