How To: -sort an old bike before riding...

Here is a spiel i have chucked together and i think it should be a tech ref type document. would like the collective thoughts to add, proof read, make suggestions whatever....
it started off as a what to do to give an old dunger a once over before starting but it has got more involved and reads as a strip down and rebuild...

there is a case for two articles here obviously....i will add it as pure text as opposed to a file. help yourselves...
Sorting an old Barn Find….
So you’ve just picked up an old bike of your youthful years and you need to give it a good sort out??
Its very tempting to give it a load of fuel and a few kicks and see if it goes but the verdict is in on this and it’s the LAST thing you should do unless you know the bike is a runner. Two big issues occur with this process…1. Stuck throttles and or blown crank seals which see your new bike screaming its head off on a runaway engine…not good.
2. airfilter may actually be “powdered foam” and can be sucked straight into the engine.
So best to give the bike a good going over before taking it out for that first ride.
By running thru this task list you will end up with a bike ready to give 5+ years of reliable service with ongoing basic maintenance.
Get the scoot onto a work stand and get the camera going..photo as you go.
Pull the seat and tank off and then the guards and sidecovers. Photo the bolts, the wiring the clips and zip ties so you can put it back together correctly or use the pics to see where the PO went wrong….
Start at the front with removing the wheel, brake plate, forks, bars, controls and the headstem. Do the back wheel, shox / linkage and pull the swing arm out.
Get the exhaust, inlet and carb off then strip the wiring..PHOTOGRAPH it…
Now the motor can come out for teardown or paint up if its fine.
Get a parts manual to see what you need to get, make a list and start shopping.
The parts manual should tell you what bolts go where so you can get rid of all the bodgy bolts that the PO’s have used “to get her going” over the years.
Get all the serviceable bolts, axles, spacers and all the little “metal” bits and get them to a plater and get them plated.
Buy new ones where necessary. Just buy a box of 6mm and 8 mm nylock nuts and replace all your nuts where possible. (unless your doing a concourse resto then you need orig parts)
Get all the bits and pieces off the frame and degrease it carefully, especially the little drain holes as grease will run out if you powdercoat and also with painting it can ruin the paint.
Get any repairs done then get it colored in your choice. Forums etc usually have the color codes of std paint schemes or paint it whatever you like.
If powder coating, make up dummy bolts to go in all your threads as the powder will fill them and need retapping. It will add several thousands of an inch to shock bushes etc and will also remove any earthing points so cover these things as well.
Powder is hard and durable but difficult to re paint so think about the bikes use..pool room or trails..
Trails will see hard wear back pretty quick and powder is resistant to that.
Motor:
Check forums etc for your bikes idiosyncrasies and find an engine man who can strip it down without having to find an old mechanic! Replace the engine seals at a minimum. They are the single most reason for engine failure on a two stroker. If its been sitting, chances are they are ted. (rooted). Another issue for long term bikes is corroded gears. The top half of the gears that have been out of the oil can pit and corrode wearing the hard facing on the teeth. Will peel off in a few rides. Check this out as well.
While its apart, check the gear dogs, crank pin wear, main and internal bearings etc, replace all the seals, gearshaft etc and tidy it up. No point getting a few rides in and find out you needed a 3rd gear….
Check or replace your water pump seal and shaft (and o'ring) before you end up with coolant in your transmission
Replace both small needle rollers on kickstarter and idler gear..Huskys especially
Use a folding gear lever tip from a later model bike, eg DRZ400 alloy tip is a bolt on.
Check ignition timing with a dial guage, too much advance causing kickback can destroy crankcases and clutch covers, too little and it will not perform well.

Have the cylinder checked for wear and out of round and sort that out with a good machine shop.
Check your rubber inlet manifold for cracking, causing air leaks and lean seizes
Get a new air filter, strip and clean the carb carefully and inspect. Worn carbs are major tuning hassle, consider a new one to avoid lots of drama.
Use bel ray airfilter oil is my recommendation for your new filter.

Check that the little rubber kickstart stop is in place, preventing clutch cover damage
Make sure the plastic steering stops are in good condition
Test or replace the radiator cap to prevent coolant loss, causing overheating

Frame:
Check the rear linkage and the pivot bolt through the swingarm, they can wear and elongate the holes in the frame and the cases. Get this and any bent frames parts repaired before painting. Check and or replace the swing arm bearings / bushes while its apart. If the swing arm is to be painted or powdered, get the bushes out and clean thoroughly. Put new bushes/needle rollers back in.
Get the pipe to a good exhaust man and get the major dints blown out and paint it up.
Replace rubber mounts at this point as well.
check the front wheel bearings and check the tube and replace the rubber spoke protector with 2 - 3 turns of duct tape to cover the spoke nipples. then pull the forks apart and clean well and inspect. Lots of sludge collects in the bottom of the sliders, clean it well. Replace the seals, check the bushes for wear and the tubes for pits and rust. Some wet and dry paper (1500#) can be used to smooth out stone pings etc that will damage the seals. You can ship them of to any of the suspensions guys for a service as well if your not confident.
check the head stem bearings, the lower one will be rusty more like. replace and grease with BEL RAY waterproof grease. oil the cables and grease the handlebar pivots of the levers and throttle body.
clean the tank out carefully drying it out with metho at the end. Check the tap for operation and flow. Get new fuel line.
strip the rear wheel and inspect for wear. Replace bearings and seals and reassemble. grease the rear brake pivot in the backing plate and check the roller bearings in the tensioners.
Does it need a new chain and sprockets?

last but not least, repack the muffler with fresh packing, paint her up nice.

change the coolant and the gearbox oil and away you go

Excellent advice Sir, could not be more accurate about how to approach an unknown history, and or questionable Told history! What's a couple of hours doing it right Vs killing the whole thing because you are in a hurry!

#3: put the bike in gear and actuate the clutch while attempting to roll the bike; to insure the clutch disengages and that the friction plates are not stuck the the steel plates.

#4 check electrolyte level in the battery, if equipped.

#5 oil level; coolant level
#6 smell the gas; and if the petcock has been left on for more than 2 months- just go ahead a do the carb now. even it's a 2-stroke with pre-mix.

if it passes the first 6 items, ride it- at least before you do a bottom-up rebuild. else how do you know it's a runner in the first place?

Very good advice All of it...I't pretty much what i'm doing right now to the 79 CR