• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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How to remove fuel tank from 2011 TE310

robertk61

robertk61

Husqvarna
A Class
The other day I was fitting my JD Jetting 6X and needed to remove the tank to get access to the plug on the injector.
It is easy enough to remove the fuel line/plug off the tank, but there is also a "balance" hose that runs under the frame.
On the left side is a screw type tap and on the right side is a normal twist type tap.
My question is:
Can you just turn off both taps and remove the hose from one side and then remove the tank?
I have a 2010 TE 250 manual and it doesn't have the same setup. (Still haven't seen a 2011 TE manual posed up yet)

Has anyone removed the tank in this way?
Rob.
 
Hi
robertk61 said:
The other day I was fitting my JD Jetting 6X and needed to remove the tank to get access to the plug on the injector.
It is easy enough to remove the fuel line/plug off the tank, but there is also a "balance" hose that runs under the frame.
On the left side is a screw type tap and on the right side is a normal twist type tap.
My question is:
Can you just turn off both taps and remove the hose from one side and then remove the tank?
I have a 2010 TE 250 manual and it doesn't have the same setup. (Still haven't seen a 2011 TE manual posed up yet)

Has anyone removed the tank in this way?
Rob.
Click to expand...

Rob I have a 2011 TE310 and yes you can just turn both taps off and just remove the line from one tap and pull the line through there will be asmall amount of fuel inthe line but thats all. I also remove the main fuel line down at the throttle body at the quick connectors as that was the easy to get to. There is also the low fuel lite loom and the fuel pump loom plugs to remove but it straight forward.
 
One thing I forgot, there is some wiring connected to the rh fuel tap, does this also have to come off?
 
Let us know how that JD kit works. Any reason you went for that vs the PC5 w/AutoTune? Price is obviously less, but the PC5 seems vastly superior.
 
robertk61 said:
One thing I forgot, there is some wiring connected to the rh fuel tap, does this also have to come off?
Click to expand...

Yes thats the low fuel light wirring just trace the wires and you will see the plug which is zip tied to the frame. The pug can only go one way so you can t get it wrong. Also as I said above the fuel wires are also connected to the bottom rear of the tank once you lift the tank up you will see it just remove the connector then remove the tank.
 
I went for the JD kit basically on price and reccomendation from my dealer (he has one on his own 310).
The PC5/ autotune combo costs over $700 in Australia (and we get no warranty support if we import from the US)
As for how it works, well all I can say it has made a HUGE difference, using only the recommended settings supplied. To start with, I had the dealer set CO1 CO2 and CO3 all back to 100 and they also set the TPS correctly. Then after the kit was fitted and using supplied settings, I have noticed the following:
Starting is easier hot or cold, idles better, power now seems more "linear" with no humps in the power band right up to the limiter. It is much more responsive and I have got rid of the "bog" just above idle.
I would now estimate I have 2-3 more HP to play with in a much more user friendly way?

The supplied instructions are easy to follow and compares everything to how it would change in a normal carby.Another nifty thing is that you can adjust for what they call "accelerator pump" .There are 6 ranges to adjust and 16 settings for each. For what I need, it does the job and it was reasonably cheap.
If I decide to put a pipe on for instance, I can easily set it (like rejetting a carb) without going to the dealer to make changes, and it has more adjustment that the standard Mikuni EFI.
 
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