• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Holey Flap! my bike eats shock covers fast

ARH

ARH

Husqvarna
AA Class
My 2012 TE250 wears holes in the rubber mud flap/shock guard in front of the rear wheel. I just replaced it and took an hour and a half ride and it is already starting to wear out. I know one fix is to get a longer chain and move the wheel back, but I just got a new chain earlier this year and don't really want to replace it again, it wore out the flaps really fast with the stock chain sprocket combo too, so its not just the new chain length. My husband's 2011 TE250 has the same problem. Anyone know of any good ways to deal with this? holyflap.jpg
 
Only one way to deal with it, longer chain. My flap has 10,000 miles on it and it's still good.

You might try heating it up, near the mounting holes and bending it/creasing it to fit tighter to the swingarm and farther from the tire.
 
Longer Chain:excuseme: I know it's not the quick answer your looking for, but it might be cheaper in the long run (saving shock, and flaps). If it came that way from the factory, then i would venture to say the chain / sprocket combo wasn't set up correctly.
 
Mine came from the factory like that as well TXC 310, but not quite as bad as yours. Longer chain is the answer or one or two teeth smaller on the sprocket. I was also thinking about this for my next one (still have a new factroy one on my bench to go though first)
http://www.acerbis.com/accessories.php?idp=142&ids=19&id_categoria=1 this is a stiffer plastic and looks like it may not feel and rub as much. I heard somewhere that a honda crf 450x one will fit as well. Cyra makes a $10 one for the honda (I belive you may need to ream out the mounting holes a touch on the honda as they are close but not perfect) http://store.cycraracing.com/cr12crf450mu.html
 
Mine does it to but I don't really care. If you don't care what it looks like just cut up a soda, milk detergent or any plastic bottle and tie wrap it to the missing portion.
 
fixedFlap.jpg
I found a fix for the flap, just a rectangle of aluminum with holes drilled, bent it toward the front of the bike to hold the flap off the tire. Maybe I'll paint it black so it will look a little better, but this seems to work well enough. I'll get a longer chain next time.
 
ARH said:
I found a fix for the flap, just a rectangle of aluminum with holes drilled, bent it toward the front of the bike to hold the flap off the tire. Maybe I'll paint it black so it will look a little better, but this seems to work well enough. I'll get a longer chain next time.
Click to expand...

This was such a good idea, I went and found the remnants of a little black plastic trash can I had cut up to make a shock flap for my Versys. I cut a piece of one of the corners of the plastic that was pre-bent the way ARH described and it works great, pushes the flap towards the swingarm, no paint either.

HuskyMudflapHolder.jpg
 
OlderHuskyRider said:
This was such a good idea, I went and found the remnants of a little black plastic trash can I had cut up to make a shock flap for my Versys. I cut a piece of one of the corners of the plastic that was pre-bent the way ARH described and it works great, pushes the flap towards the swingarm, no paint either.

HuskyMudflapHolder.jpg
Click to expand...
Great idea! I used a piece cut from the bottom of a 4 litre oil jug,works perfect:thumbsup:I also used another piece from the oil jug to make a splash shield for the rear linkage,it covers the lower shock pivot and the rest of the linkage and protects it from the spray from the front wheel.It fits up between the original shock flap and the swing-arm,protecting every-thing from spray from the back wheel as well.4 zip-ties hold it on to the linkage and it works great.Cost=$0 that makes it even better!:cheers:.
 
Just seeing what setting you guys put the rear axle markings on to f
Been out of action for a few years and need to replace my rear shock flap, but going back to the standard 13/47 sockets and fitting a new chain as we speak. Think it was on the 5th one from the back
 

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Ment to post this one, also where can you get an after market one. Located in Australia, seen a few universal ones but they are quite expensive
 

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On my SWM I had the same issue. I cut a new flap from a piece of "mudflap" type rubber I bought from an industrial rubber supplier. Seems to work ok and because it's not as rigid as the original flap it can touch the tyre without wearing through.

Having said all that I'm going to modify its mounting using a second, curved piece of material to hold it further forward away from the tyre.
 
I went through one fast when I got a new chain at the same time I got a new Mountain Hybrid.

Stock one was like $11 at BMP's a couple of years ago.

Try pop-riveting a section of inner tube on it in the meantime.

Yeah, your axle is pretty far forward. Get 2 more links on your chain... you can always cut it.
 
Plus one on way too far forward. Just get another master link to move it back a bit. We have Same issues when running a paddle tire we usually have to add a link so it doesn't chew up the flap, never had a chain issue adding a link
 
Teambowles said:
Plus one on way too far forward. Just get another master link to move it back a bit. We have Same issues when running a paddle tire we usually have to add a link so it doesn't chew up the flap, never had a chain issue adding a link
Click to expand...

OP: you're probably gonna need a inner link to add another master.
 
Trenchcoat85 said:
Whoops... been meaning to tell you: my uncle, Charlie Kramm, passed away Saturday down in Sac. He's still got a few old buddies up here in the SO- pass the word on if you get a chance.

....also, OP: you're probably gonna need a inner link to add another master.
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Sorry to hear that and will do!
 
Teambowles said:
Plus one on way too far forward. Just get another master link to move it back a bit. We have Same issues when running a paddle tire we usually have to add a link so it doesn't chew up the flap, never had a chain issue adding a link
Click to expand...

Yeah I have a new chain and sprocket, so I can set it back more, just wanted to know how far back you should go with a new chain, don't want to put it on the back one and if it stretches a bit there will be no adjustment.
 
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